I have seen the light!
- Thread starter bjmumy
- Start date
Olgranddad
New member
Out of curiousity what is the part number for the 400W ballasts? I am starting to make decisions about what life I plan on keeping. At this point I don't know what the light requirements are so I can finalized them. I'm deciding between the 250W and 400W ballasts.
Thanks
Olgranddad
Thanks
Olgranddad
npaden
New member
Missed Thread due to Title
Missed Thread due to Title
I have seen this thread hanging around for weeks and never clicked on it because of the title.
Oh well, I will share my DIY Iwasaki setup for everyone now, if maybe a little late.
I got my ballasts off ebay for $84.03 including shipping. They are 400W MH ballasts that also are supposed to work for the MV as well. Here is a closeup pic of the ballasts:
http://padens.homepage.com/hp/gear/photo/ReefTank/diy.html?item=7.3
Notice it says right on the label that it is good for MH or MV bulbs.
I didn't know to look at Graybar for the MV ballasts or would have probably used those. I called some other electrical and lighting companies in town and they wanted $60 or more each on MH or MV ballasts. I also was not positive at the time on the Iwasaki bulbs, so thought using the MH/MV ballast would allow me to switch if I ended up not liking the Iwasaki bulb. I might have to spend the $ on a MV ballast just to see if you can actually tell any difference in the color or intensity of the bulbs on the different ballasts. I haven't seen any results using a PAR meter or anything and I don't have one either though.
I used a $12 metal tool box from Home Depot for my enclosure box. Here is a pic of the enclousure box:
http://padens.homepage.com/hp/gear/photo/ReefTank/diy.html?item=7.1
I was able to fit both ballasts into the tool box including the capacitors. I drilled some holes in it for ventilation and right now I have a small fan that blows over the toolbox on the same timer as the ballasts so it keeps it from heating up to much.
I didn't use a disconnect on the wire going to the sockets and that is a pain as now if I ever need to pull the canopy I will have to undo the wires going to the sockets from the ballasts. If I pull the canopy I will change this and put in disconnect type plugs on.
Here is one more pic a little closer that the other that shows the ballasts sitting in the toolbox. I used "Hi Temp" automotive silicone to adhere the ballasts and capacitors to the toolbox so they wouldn't move around. It is strong enough to keep them in place, but if I wanted to, I could pry them out of the toolbox.
Total price on my 2X400W setup with bulbs ended up just under $250 and this really is an easy DIY. The longest it took for anything was drilling the holes in the toolbox. Total time might have been around 1 hour.
FWIW, Nathan
Missed Thread due to Title
I have seen this thread hanging around for weeks and never clicked on it because of the title.
Oh well, I will share my DIY Iwasaki setup for everyone now, if maybe a little late.I got my ballasts off ebay for $84.03 including shipping. They are 400W MH ballasts that also are supposed to work for the MV as well. Here is a closeup pic of the ballasts:
http://padens.homepage.com/hp/gear/photo/ReefTank/diy.html?item=7.3
Notice it says right on the label that it is good for MH or MV bulbs.
I didn't know to look at Graybar for the MV ballasts or would have probably used those. I called some other electrical and lighting companies in town and they wanted $60 or more each on MH or MV ballasts. I also was not positive at the time on the Iwasaki bulbs, so thought using the MH/MV ballast would allow me to switch if I ended up not liking the Iwasaki bulb. I might have to spend the $ on a MV ballast just to see if you can actually tell any difference in the color or intensity of the bulbs on the different ballasts. I haven't seen any results using a PAR meter or anything and I don't have one either though.
I used a $12 metal tool box from Home Depot for my enclosure box. Here is a pic of the enclousure box:
http://padens.homepage.com/hp/gear/photo/ReefTank/diy.html?item=7.1
I was able to fit both ballasts into the tool box including the capacitors. I drilled some holes in it for ventilation and right now I have a small fan that blows over the toolbox on the same timer as the ballasts so it keeps it from heating up to much.
I didn't use a disconnect on the wire going to the sockets and that is a pain as now if I ever need to pull the canopy I will have to undo the wires going to the sockets from the ballasts. If I pull the canopy I will change this and put in disconnect type plugs on.
Here is one more pic a little closer that the other that shows the ballasts sitting in the toolbox. I used "Hi Temp" automotive silicone to adhere the ballasts and capacitors to the toolbox so they wouldn't move around. It is strong enough to keep them in place, but if I wanted to, I could pry them out of the toolbox.
Total price on my 2X400W setup with bulbs ended up just under $250 and this really is an easy DIY. The longest it took for anything was drilling the holes in the toolbox. Total time might have been around 1 hour.
FWIW, Nathan
Phillstone
Premium Member
What is the purpose of encloseing the balast in a metal box? If I were to remote mount these away from the tank wouldn't it be better to let them get air flow to help disapate heat?
Just curious, Phill
Just curious, Phill
MrSandman
Team RC
BJ,
Ok, i just received all of the parts i needed and went ahead and installed the light per your instructions. WOW ITS BRIGHT!!! hehe..i was seeing spots for a while. It was kinda bluish too. I even got 2 24" PFO reflectors so that i can hold my 1 MH and 2 PC's on one reflector x 2. I can't wait to get it over the tank. I'm very tempted to do a "Rube Goldberg" and just stick the set-up over the tank w/o the hood just to see how it'll look, but im just scared i may end up leaving it that way..hehe.. I have one question. Have you ever left the lights on for a long time? I was wondering how hot the ballast got. Reason being is that, i got a metal enclosure from a friend of mine that where the ballast can't stand up on its square "ring". I want to lay it on its side inside the metal box and have it rest on the coils, but was wondering if it'll get too hot for the box? any help would be great.
Ok, i just received all of the parts i needed and went ahead and installed the light per your instructions. WOW ITS BRIGHT!!! hehe..i was seeing spots for a while. It was kinda bluish too. I even got 2 24" PFO reflectors so that i can hold my 1 MH and 2 PC's on one reflector x 2. I can't wait to get it over the tank. I'm very tempted to do a "Rube Goldberg" and just stick the set-up over the tank w/o the hood just to see how it'll look, but im just scared i may end up leaving it that way..hehe.. I have one question. Have you ever left the lights on for a long time? I was wondering how hot the ballast got. Reason being is that, i got a metal enclosure from a friend of mine that where the ballast can't stand up on its square "ring". I want to lay it on its side inside the metal box and have it rest on the coils, but was wondering if it'll get too hot for the box? any help would be great.
Phill, the reason for enclosing them is to avoid electricution. I just wouldn't feel comfortable leaving them exposed. As long as they were in an area where nobody could touch them and no water could get anywhere close to them, I spose they'd be ok exposed. But I think it's in your best interests to put them away in something for safety's sake.
MrSandman, the ballasts do get warm. When I left them on for 2 hours, the boxes got kinda hot, but not hot enough that I couldn't hold my hand on them indefinitely. I don't think heat would be a huge problem in letting the coils sit on their sides, but I think they were meant to rest on the coils rather than the cores. I don't know how good that would be for the ballasts long term. Congrats on your new setup! This thread really took off more than I thought it ever would. I was just excited that I had a metal halide bulb going in my garage and wanted to tell somebody that would understand my joy.
. I just wouldn't feel comfortable leaving them exposed. As long as they were in an area where nobody could touch them and no water could get anywhere close to them, I spose they'd be ok exposed. But I think it's in your best interests to put them away in something for safety's sake.MrSandman, the ballasts do get warm. When I left them on for 2 hours, the boxes got kinda hot, but not hot enough that I couldn't hold my hand on them indefinitely. I don't think heat would be a huge problem in letting the coils sit on their sides, but I think they were meant to rest on the coils rather than the cores. I don't know how good that would be for the ballasts long term. Congrats on your new setup! This thread really took off more than I thought it ever would. I was just excited that I had a metal halide bulb going in my garage and wanted to tell somebody that would understand my joy.
Colin
New member
I did some calling around, and a place called 'Light Bulb Supply' here in Oklahoma City can get (does not stock) the Advance 71A3802 for $29.95. The 71A-3572 is in stock for $56.25. The guy said the big difference was that the 3572 was a 'multi-tap' ballast and could run off of multiple input voltages, whereas the 3802 only ran on 120VAC. Is this the only difference, or was he simplifiying things?
This also means that if you don't want to deal with Graybar or don't have one around, there are other alternatives that are close in price.
--Colin
This also means that if you don't want to deal with Graybar or don't have one around, there are other alternatives that are close in price.
--Colin
Colin
New member
Heheh. Of course shipping would be outrageous. You guys should check locally with lighting supply stores and see if they can order them for you. This place is an open to the public type joint, and I have a feeling that most retail places sell those ballasts for about $30.
--Colin
--Colin
MrSandman
Team RC
Ok, just got an email back from an eye representative. I posed the following questions:
I currently have several ballasts manufactured by Advance Transformers part number 71A3802. I was just wondering if your 250W 6500K bulb item#57787 w/ a lamp designation# of MT250DL would work with them? If not, then can you please point me to the ballast which is compatible and give details as to why? I was told that the 71A3572 (CWA) is also a compatible ballast. Can you explain how and why it is better to run your bulbs off of these?
He responded with:
"The MT250DL lampworks best with a mercury high power factor ballast
Many people do use CWA ballasts due to availabilty
Both the ballasts you have will work ok
Magnetk's 1033-24S with the high power factor Capacitor would give the longest lamp life
Ã"šÃ‚Â
TOM GOLENBERKE
SERVICE MANAGER
EYE LIGHTING INA"
I currently have several ballasts manufactured by Advance Transformers part number 71A3802. I was just wondering if your 250W 6500K bulb item#57787 w/ a lamp designation# of MT250DL would work with them? If not, then can you please point me to the ballast which is compatible and give details as to why? I was told that the 71A3572 (CWA) is also a compatible ballast. Can you explain how and why it is better to run your bulbs off of these?
He responded with:
"The MT250DL lampworks best with a mercury high power factor ballast
Many people do use CWA ballasts due to availabilty
Both the ballasts you have will work ok
Magnetk's 1033-24S with the high power factor Capacitor would give the longest lamp life
Ã"šÃ‚Â
TOM GOLENBERKE
SERVICE MANAGER
EYE LIGHTING INA"
David Newman
New member
Well, now we have more confusion. John Petrak recommended the Magneteck 1030-92, which is what I wound up getting. When the Electrical Engineer and the Service Manager (both at Eye)don't agree, how are we supposed to figure it out?
David
David
David Newman
New member
The one I have, which Petrak recommended, is CWA. Don't know about the other, but when I asked Petrak about the CWA, he told me Magnetek didn't make an appropriate ballast that wasn't CWA. So, instead of reducing the number of choices, we now have 4 possibilities with no clear understanding of which is best, or why. Maybe we could contact someone else at Eye and get a couple of more choices to further confuse things.
I think the two people at EYE don't agree because there is no wrong answer. We can conclude that we should be using ballasts designed for MV bulbs and that's about it. I think they are telling us different ballasts because it really doesn't matter. I would advise choosing a ballast based on price and availability. If you're sure you're going to stick with the Iwasakis, make sure you get a MV ballast. As to which MV ballast you choose, I honestly don't think it will matter. If there is one ballast that is really better than all others, I would have to believe that EYE representatives would respond with a unanimous answer when asked.
Just my $.02
Brian
Just my $.02
Brian
David Newman
New member
Brian, you're probably right. You and I are using different ballasts and we know they both work well.
salty toes
Member
bjmumy
how much did you pay for those boxes at home depot?
how much did you pay for those boxes at home depot?
