I just can't win with Nitrates
- Thread starter kissman
- Start date
CStrickland
New member
When you dosed carbon before, did it give you the numbers you are looking for now?
Also, in the other thread, you were thinking to add a little power head for the cyano, right? Did that happen?
I think it would be easier to return to a routine that you are comfortable with and have had success with, than make a new project. Unless you're into like tweaking your system, that's fun too but it kinda sounds like you just want the nitrates number down for a little while to see if it clears up a bit of algae that's hitchiked in, not a new commitment. Plus you'll be able to back off easier if it works. Like maybe 30ppm is fine for your tank except this caulerpa and cyano got a foothold so they need to be knocked back, but you don't need to make a big change to your system to do it.
I'd try dosing first $.02.
Also, in the other thread, you were thinking to add a little power head for the cyano, right? Did that happen?
I think it would be easier to return to a routine that you are comfortable with and have had success with, than make a new project. Unless you're into like tweaking your system, that's fun too but it kinda sounds like you just want the nitrates number down for a little while to see if it clears up a bit of algae that's hitchiked in, not a new commitment. Plus you'll be able to back off easier if it works. Like maybe 30ppm is fine for your tank except this caulerpa and cyano got a foothold so they need to be knocked back, but you don't need to make a big change to your system to do it.
I'd try dosing first $.02.
kissman
Active member
Yes i actually added 2 powerheads that are blowing across the back at each other
Ok, so it's a 2 chamber sump. The skimmer section has an 8" baffle that overflows to the return section where just before the return there's is a 4" baffle to hold the previous grunge, however you have the water level set to 8 inches throughout by way of either manual or automatic top off. Do I have this right?
If so, raising the 4" baffle to 8 will have zero effect on your system. You simply won't be putting as much water back into the sump after the fix. You'll still have a water height of 8 inches.
Also, how come you don't have enough room for the bucket method if this is a 20 long under a 55?
Carbon dosing is an option, but personally I'd rather set up a maintenance free system once and be done. The rdsb is brilliant in that you don't have to do anything after you set it up. Plus it's relatively safe. Although it's a fact of reefing I hate automatic dosing. The thought of an overdose by a piece of equipment failing is always in the back of my mind. I don't know what exactly would happen if a 1.75 liter bottle of vodka emptied into a tank (never tried it
) but I'd imagine it wouldn't be good.Please correct me if I am wrong but doesn't a dsb take several months to produce enough bacteria to start putting a dent in nitrates if at all? And can't they become problematic if not maintained properly?i think low flow over the top and no light are required for it to be effective.
renevilleneuve
New member
+1 oscarinw
How old is the new setup? As in when did you redesign the tank with a shallow sand bed?
addictedreefer
New member
Completely disagree on the rock point. Sufficient quantities of high quality rock can and do act very similar to a DSB as they harbor anaerobic chambers deep within that house denitrifying bacteria. What is the basis for your claim that more rock will not work?
I agree. If the rock won't work the rdsb won't work. If the bacteria won't colonize the extra rock because there is already sufficient bacteria in the original rock then the same can be said for the sand. The only difference between the two is rock is self cleaning with proper flow and a rdsb is a nutrient sink that will need to be switched out every so often.
On the other hand I don't believe neither wont work and I don't believe the bacteria population is only dependent on fish as they take care of all kinds of nutrients. Sand and rock alike there will be nutrient coming in with them.
kissman
Active member
Year and a half
We have no control over the make up of rock or it's predictability. It's porosity, density, size, shape etc. So you can load up that 12x12 area with rock and it may or may not do anything for you. Not to mention a 12x12x6 inch area is not going to have much of an effect if we already see that his tank is loaded with rock and not denitrifying at a rate at which he needs. In addition, the amount of denitrifying area inside the rock is likely much less than a rdsb. Furthermore, the potential for it to just trap detritus is much higher than a rdsb, which then would become even more counterproductive.
Conversely, we can impliment and control the rdsb (more so if it's truly remote) and it's extremely effective given the space required. Plus it's predictable. If you go to the link I posted above and read what Anthony Calfo said, it's pretty clear just how effective and predictable it is. His experience, among many others, of setting up a 55 gallon 48x12 surface area for a 2000 gallon system and watching nitrate fall like a rock speaks volumes to its effectiveness. Furthermore it's so simple and cheap to implement.
And while the op may be introducing too much nutrients, he may not. Every tank is different and so is a piece of rock. A healthy fish is a well fed fish, just ask Paul B. Even seasoned hobbyist, for example, Melev resorted to carbon dosing to reduce nitrates. So sometimes we just need that extra denitrifying filter to complete the nitrogen cycle, which is many times lacking or overlooked in many tanks.
Conversely, we can impliment and control the rdsb (more so if it's truly remote) and it's extremely effective given the space required. Plus it's predictable. If you go to the link I posted above and read what Anthony Calfo said, it's pretty clear just how effective and predictable it is. His experience, among many others, of setting up a 55 gallon 48x12 surface area for a 2000 gallon system and watching nitrate fall like a rock speaks volumes to its effectiveness. Furthermore it's so simple and cheap to implement.
And while the op may be introducing too much nutrients, he may not. Every tank is different and so is a piece of rock. A healthy fish is a well fed fish, just ask Paul B. Even seasoned hobbyist, for example, Melev resorted to carbon dosing to reduce nitrates. So sometimes we just need that extra denitrifying filter to complete the nitrogen cycle, which is many times lacking or overlooked in many tanks.
kissman
Active member
The vinegar dosing has started. By using the chart below I have started with 2.2ml really should be 2 but the doser is a 1.1ml per minute so I run it for 1min at 10am and 1min at 6pm. Also did a 15g water change. Need to order salt then will probably do 2 big water changes. I have also diluted my top off water to bring ALK down to around 8
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CStrickland
New member
I was looking for something else, and I came across the cyano + nitrogen thing I mentioned before. Thought I'd leave it here in case anyone was curious about it, pretty neat stuff.
Good luck with the vinegar Kissman!
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2012/4/inverts
Good luck with the vinegar Kissman!
kissman
Active member
I am reading it now and yeah I do have Aiptasia too. Does it come in Cliff Notes? LOL
Maybe you've already thought of this, but i don't see it in the thread yet. I was having a nightmare with nitrates and couldn't get it down with50% changes twice a week. Ended up it was my red sea test kit. It was fine by the expiration date, but had picked up some moisture which caused it to give high readings. The white powder should be free flowing. If it even looks a little grainy, replace the kit. I went from the colors you are showing to zero with a new kit.
