I need a Plumber

[pk1]

Good afternoon all!
I am in need of a plumber. Anyone here? I need to relocate the PVC running to my sewage ejector, and toss in a standard laundry room sink too. Here's a picture.

I have no problem putting the sink in, that's easy enough, but messing around with the ejector is a little beyond me. Thank's.

Patrick

 

[ykh]

Patrick,

If you found one, please let me know. I'm planning to put an utility sink down in my basement too. I saw an utility sink package for sale at menards for about $80 last nite.

 

[mimosa]

Patrick, from the picture looks like the ejector pipe is the one on the left. What do you want to do with it specifically? Do you want to move both of them towards the wall? It can't be that difficult.

 

[jdhanover]

Given that I have no drain nor sink in the basement, I am interested in this as well - if I put in a sink what power/type pump is needed to pump it up 6-8 feet? I have a few PVC drain pipes in the ceiling of the room I am thinking about.
Don't want to just have it drain to the house sump.
If anyone has a thread/site on this it would be appreciated.... by pk1 and me I suspect.

 

[pk1]

That's exactly what I want to do. I want to run both pipes parallel to the floor, as close to the ground as possible, back to the wall, and put the sink right there. That would add a few extra bends, and I'm not sure what that would do to the flow of the ejector. Also, I want to look into a different type of back flow valve, as the current one practically shakes the whole house when it closes.

Patrick

 

[aaronpentz]

The reason that I shakes you house is the pipes are loose and the weight of the waste on top of the valve slamming it shut. The pipe you have on the left with the Ball valve is the wast input (from your toilets, tubs, and sinks). running that on the floor will cause it to back up. But what I dont understand is you are in Lombard. dont you have city water and sewer? If you do then I dont understand the need for a septic tank unless there is a basement bathroom. The only other thing that it could be would be a sump pump. where your drainage tile around the house drains to also in case of a basement flood. So if you have a sump for drainage water you can re-route them to run on the floor as there is no solids running throught the system. A little confusing but easy to figure out. Pop the top and see if there is any of solids. If there Is then No you cannot reroute the pipes. but if its just water then go for it.

 

[pk1]

Aaron, I think your understanding of what I am asking has joined my and jdhanover's post. I have city water and sewer.

 

[aaronpentz]

Do you know what drains into the sump then the one with the ball valve. It also doesnt look like you have a check valve on the output unless its under the cover. As this is not a spetic tank then you can route the pipes along the floor.

As for jd, you require a sump for the drainage water with a pump and a float valve. Unless you are wanting to put a bathroom in the basement in the near future. then you need a septic tank and a couple hours of work cutting the concrete and laying a 4" drain pipe.

 

[jdhanover]

No way I am cutting the floor etc.
Only want a sink. But how would that work? If I read you right...
I will need the sink drain to go to a tub of some sort with the pump in there run via a float valve. But then the sink will need to be higher than the tub, no? Maybe this is not doable?

Don't want this draining to the main house sump because I'd like to be able to drain SW into it and skimmer scum. Neither is probably good for the house sump pump (latter would at least stink I suspect)

Sure hope there is a relatively simple solution as a sink downstairs would solve a lot of issues for me.

 

[aaronpentz]

Yes that is excatly right. you could just buy a rubbermaid tub that everybody uses for sump on their tanks and use a pump with a float valve for automated pumping. you also dont need any special pump just something that can pump water slightly higher than the pipe you are thinking about.

They do make some low profile tanks for toilets that sit above the concrete with an enclosed pump but these can get really expensive.

Here is something that would work great I just dont know what your budget is.
http://www.accentshopping.com/store/plumbing/pumps/sinkdrainpump/403.asp

 

[jdhanover]

That is pretty cool. Probably can DIY one much cheaper (though that unit includes a pump) but that is the idea I had. I need to figure out where (and how -an idea of the easiest way?) to tap into the drain, but I suspect I can somehow/somewhere. Of course, I will need water lines too. Sounds like a plumber on the side here may help a lot.

The construction crew on hmy house remodel left me a pump that I think I can use (not sure how high it can pump). Might just do that - I plug it in to turn it on but that is no big deal. Else this unit may work out best.

Food for thought! Thanks!

 

[aaronpentz]

Well you can pick up a float valve at home depot for around 15.00 bucks. not a huge deal. I know that i would forget to plug in the pump at least once.

As for plumbing into your exsisting plumbing. you could just cut and install a tee, or just use a saddle.

http://www.plumbingworld.com/saddle.html

Just make sure which ever way you go to place the tee or saddle up. The reason for that is so you dont have any wastewater draining down and flooding your basement. you should also use a check valve just to make sure. I could help if you need but only on the weekends.

 

[jdhanover]

I think that is the answer! Though I still need to get the (hot and or just) cold water there but there may be a relatively easy way to do so. Not too worried about forgetting to pump it out - I'll want the drain tub to be emptied to avoid odor, etc. Probably there are ingenious solution to that, but not critical.
I really could use some help (on the weekend is fine!). But it would be best I suspect to try to have everything here to save time (there is a HD about 4 minutes from my house).
FYI the tank is 5 weeks away or maybe less.
Will PM you to figure out how to send some pix of the situation I have to you. Thanks!

 

[aaronpentz]

works for me

 

[FISHMAN350]

plumbing

plumbing

pk the line with the valve is the water being pumped out of the pit and it has a combo valve and check valve in it. the other line is the vent for the pit. you could install a tee in the vent line after you set it closer to the floor/wall and use it to drain your new sink.this is how i have mine it works great. just make shure to put a p-trap on the sink otherwise you will get the smell out of the pit. any questions just pm me.hope it works for you

 

[FISHMAN350]

plumbing

plumbing

also forgot always unplug the pump when working on it you dont want it going off while you are working!!!!!!!

 

[ros]

Fishman350 is right make sure it is a sanitary T, this is what i think they call a wet vent. If you want I could put in the sanitary tee and and pipe the copper for a sink.

Rich

 

[TYSLT1]

fish mans right but what ever you do dont use a saddle valve. i know they are easy but it WILL leak. your copper lines are right there just have someone solder it up. PM me if you have any questions or need help.

Tyson

 

[tiny tentacle]

"Don't want this draining to the main house sump because I'd like to be able to drain SW into it and skimmer scum. Neither is probably good for the house sump pump (latter would at least stink I suspect)"

Patrick, I'm in Crystal Lake and i have a laundry tub next to the sump with the drain going into the top of the round black sump cover. Also my skimmer and overflow goes into the floor drain next to the sump and the house humidifier/airconditioner have plastic pipes going into the floor drain too.

I have no toilet in the basement that goes to this floor sump and the pump inside is the green painted variety? this pump must be made for corrosion resistance. For over 4 years i have had no problems pumping the salt water out from this floor sump to the main street sewer pipe with the rest of the house waste water.

 

[ros]

The green pump should be a Zoeller pump. If you read the owners manual the life expectance is 5 to 7 years! I say why chance this replace pump every five years. BTW I learned the hard way.