I need help with a multi chip led build.

[disciple]

I have a 120 gallon 4'x2'x2' oceanic that hopefully one day will be a beautiful reef tank.

My goal is to build in stages since money is tight. Looking at getting 3-20w multi chips right now powered by one dimmable driver. I don't have a controller, but would like one in the future to dim the leds.

These are the leds i am thinking of getting. They would be hooked up W/RB/W. I will add more royal blue in the future on a different driver.

2 each = EPISTAR 20W 14000K Led Panel
Description:

Color temperature: 14000K
Led chips: EPSTAR EDI-EA1143 45mil
Download Manufacturer Data Sheet
PAR reading(Instrument: Apogee MQ-200): 365
DC forward Voltage: 10-11V
DC forward current: 2000mA max
Rated power: 22W max
Viewing Angle: 120 Degree
Intensity Luminous (Iv): 800-1550LM
Life span 50000 hours guarantee

and

1 = 20W 453nm Royal Blue Led Panel
Description:

Color Wavelength: 453nm-455nm
LED chips: EPISTAR EDI-EA1143 45*45mil
Download Manufacturer Data Sheet
PAR reading(Instrument: Apogee MQ-200): 241
DC Forward Voltage (VF): 10-11V DC
DC Forward Current (IF): 2000mA Max
Rated Power: 22W max
Viewing Angle: 120 Degree
Intensity Luminous (Iv): 500LM
Life span 50000 hours guarantee

I'm not an electrician. FYI

THANKS

 

[Dave Thebrewguy]

So, what did you need help with?

 

[mcgyvr]

If I was you, I would...Get a Meanwell ELN-60-48D (or one closer to the 2A), a 9V "regulated" wall adapter power supply (wall wart), and a 10K potentiometer and some wire (20 AWG or larger)
And have fun
Then take pictures next to an object of known color (like a coke can or something) and post them here..

What are you using for heatsinks?

 

[uncleof6]

If I was you, I would...Get a Meanwell ELN-60-48D (or one closer to the 2A), a 9V "regulated" wall adapter power supply (wall wart), and a 10K potentiometer and some wire (20 AWG or larger)
And have fun
Then take pictures next to an object of known color (like a coke can or something) and post them here..

What are you using for heatsinks?

TSK TSK TSK.... a coke can? Ummmm why don't we try something like an 18% gray card such as used in photography for color correction...............a couple clicks in photoshop and you can see what ya got.......

 

[mcgyvr]

TSK TSK TSK.... a coke can? Ummmm why don't we try something like an 18% gray card such as used in photography for color correction...............a couple clicks in photoshop and you can see what ya got.......

Anythings better than what we've been getting around here.
I figured everyone knows "Coke Red" and has a can laying around :thumbsup:
Heck I'd mail out Pantone cards to everyone if it helped.

 

[Lassef]

With the ELN -60 - 48 D you will only use around 60 - 65 % of these chips capacity (1.3 A max at the driver and 2 A max for the chip) With this driver you can attach 3 - 4 chip in a daisy chain (seriel connection) No les and no more. You will get around 12 - 14 W from each chip.

With the LPF-60D-36 you can run 3 chip in a daisy chain at 1.67 A - gives around 17 W/chip. probably it will not handle 2 chip in a daisy chain - it is very close to the limits of the driver.

For the ELN driver (if you chose the D option) you can do as mcyvr says - with the LPF-60D-36 driver you only need a 100 K pot

With that depth - I would use 90 or 60 degree lenses

Sincerely Lasse

 

[disciple]

Thanks

Would I be better off getting a single 50w with my size tank, and adding supplemental 20w leds?

50W Super Actinic Blue Hybrid 45mil LED Panel

Description:

LED chips: EPISTAR EDI-EA1143 45*45mil
Download Manufacturer Data Sheet
Color Temperature/Wavelength: 20 chips 20000K + 30 chips 450-453nm Royal Blue
PAR reading(Instrument: Apogee MQ-200):
964 on 1.7A input current
1603 on 3.5A input current
DC Forward Voltage (VF): 31.5-36V DC
DC Forward Current (IF): 3500mA max
Rated Power: 126W max
Viewing Angle: 140 Degree

I'll be using about a 24" to 36" heat sink. With multiple fans. Still want to dim, probably with just a pot.

I do need help as you can see with light choice (epistar, or epiled) from what i understand these are better grades? And I need help picking out a driver.

thanks

 

[disciple]

i would drive the 50w separate.

 

[PowerNap]

My advice is don’t do it! The costs of a DIY can easily exceed the costs of buying a ready made fixture when you add up all the costs. This is especially true when you try to piecemeal things together. Three 20w LED’s, or one 50w led isn’t going to be sufficient to light your size tank. I may be wrong but you probably need something like 150w total for your tank. Most DIY lights overshoot and dim to get the desired effect.

If upfront costs are an issue, I suggest VHO fluorescent lights, which you can upgrade at a later date, or as your budget allows. You can always find used equipment found on sites like RC or Craig’s list, which will give you much greater bang for the buck.

 

[brad]

I know the ELN-60-48D is popular, but even Meanwell says not use these any more, and recommended a LPF-60D-48 as a replacement. As Lassef said, you are probably better off driving these at higher current anyway.

 

[disciple]

My main goal is life span. I have a 48" t-5 aquatintics fixture, and dont want to spend over 100 dollars every 12 months to get new bulbs.

 

[mcgyvr]

My advice is don't do it! The costs of a DIY can easily exceed the costs of buying a ready made fixture when you add up all the costs. .

blah blah blah.

he also knows its not enough light.. He said he is building in "stages since money is tight"

A 100W multichip/lens, a CPU cooler and a power supply will run you under $200.. Show me a "quality" LED setup with 100W+ of lighting for under $200..


Lets see.. Ecotech Radion XR30W= $599.. and on and on..

 

[Lassef]

Thanks

Would I be better off getting a single 50w with my size tank, and adding supplemental 20w leds?

50W Super Actinic Blue Hybrid 45mil LED Panel

Description:

LED chips: EPISTAR EDI-EA1143 45*45mil
Download Manufacturer Data Sheet
Color Temperature/Wavelength: 20 chips 20000K + 30 chips 450-453nm Royal Blue
PAR reading(Instrument: Apogee MQ-200):
964 on 1.7A input current
1603 on 3.5A input current
DC Forward Voltage (VF): 31.5-36V DC
DC Forward Current (IF): 3500mA max
Rated Power: 126W max
Viewing Angle: 140 Degree

I'll be using about a 24" to 36" heat sink. With multiple fans. Still want to dim, probably with just a pot.

I do need help as you can see with light choice (epistar, or epiled) from what i understand these are better grades? And I need help picking out a driver.

thanks

It depends on what you want to achieve and what corals you want. A 50-watt chip is a good start and the type you describe is of good quality and the shop that sells it has a good reputation. This 50 watt chip is actually 50 pieces of individual LEDs on a chip. Each LED can be driven at 700 mA = 2.5 watts / LED. This means that you can get about 120 watts from this chip. These chips should be cooled by CPU cooler or graphics card coolers. If you want to go up to 100 W is a cooler with heat pipes preferable.

If you want a Meanwell, LPF-90D-36 fits pretty well. It delivers 2.5 A (max chip 3.5) and you should get about 80 watts from the chip.

Lens 90 or 60 degrees


Sincerely Lasse

 

[disciple]

Thanks Lassef!

I think ill go with the 50w super actinic and lpf-90d-36

 

[disciple]

Fuse?

Fuse?



With the LPF90D-36 driver I would like to shut it off in the event that the vga cooler stops working.

My thoughts are either a thermal fuse when the temp gets to high or a something between the cooler and driver.

Any thoughts. See attached schematic. I will be installing a 100k pot to dim driver.