I need serious help ( Urgent West Covina, CA)

I agree with @leebca it looks like ich and on the video i noticed some fish were not healthy enough specially black tang. it also shoow early stage of hlle which might get worse in copper treatment which might be required to cure these fish unless you want to tackle it with hyposalinity. Either way copper or hypo will be needed to get them some relief or else you might end up losing them all.
There are lots of myth in this hobby so please consult with experts here before doing anything.

good luck and if you can ship them i will be happy to cure them for you for free. (i qt for living) www.drreefsquarantinedfish.com
 
I agree with @leebca it looks like ich and on the video i noticed some fish were not healthy enough specially black tang. it also shoow early stage of hlle which might get worse in copper treatment which might be required to cure these fish unless you want to tackle it with hyposalinity. Either way copper or hypo will be needed to get them some relief or else you might end up losing them all.
There are lots of myth in this hobby so please consult with experts here before doing anything.

good luck and if you can ship them i will be happy to cure them for you for free. (i qt for living) www.drreefsquarantinedfish.com
I would ship him to you no problem but I’m not an expert at shipping so I would have to look into it & how I would go about it. I bought him only like 3 weeks ago for 850 and he’s such a sweet fish and has the most funky personality. Not sure if all fish people note personalities in fish. If you could please talk me through the best way to ship such a big fish I will happily send him to you.
 
Update ; Just got back from the LFS and picked up 2 60 gal tanks 2 heaters sponge filters and some equipment. Also new nets for only the QT. I also picked up some coppersafe they didn’t have copper power and maracyn 2. The tanks will be set up tonight after my friend comes with more saltwater
 
Update #2: Lfs friend brought 2 "60g" aquariums to the house tonight. I kind of shrugged at the size at first. Seemed to be way too small to be 60. I was kind of skeptical but it was dark. Measured after he left and did the math. It's a 42g. Tank is already full of water, bacteria,heater,& sponge filter.
I hate these kind of events.

They were only 30 dollars a tank so it wasn't bad but I'm just kinda irked.

on another note

The place I bought most my fish from has decided to help me do a proper quarantine on the black tang,Achilles,& kole.

They seem to be less "durable" then my other fish. I really hope I can send out the Black tang to @Dr. Reef for Hlle but I don't think he will make shipping currently and it would break my heart and ( wallet) if I lost the old man. For now I'm going to follow the nutrition guide and see if it will help some.

So I'm going to be home Qt the Atlantic blue, sailfin, 2 small blue tangs, 2 flurry clowns, 2 percula clowns, 1 mocha clown & n/a tiny designer clown, 6line wrasse, 2 watchman goby, clown coris and I think that about covers it.

My plan
Qt 1 : Sailfin, 2 Blue tangs, Percula pair, Clown Coris, Singlet Mocha.

Qt 2: Atlantic Blue, flurry pair, singlet baby designer, 6 line wrasse, 2 watchman goby,

Give me ideas if you get a better layout just the flurry shouldn't be in the same tank as the percula pair.

They do ehhh in the large tank as it is and I don't think this would be a good fit in a small tank. I tried to divide it even and not put all the big fish in one tank so I split it up. I was considering splitting the blue tangs but they are really small as it is.

So far the tanks only have heaters and the sponge filter. I'm soaking my backup redsea larger gyre in 50/50 Vinegar to help clean it because these tanks are long and I think it will be too still but I'm not sure it will be a good fit at all even on a low setting maybe a large air stone is in my future or even a Hob.

I'm unsure as I run a sump so these other options are foreign to me.

Anyways, I'm stressed out of my mind but tomorrow is a new day.

Goodnight Reef hobby

- Emi & the tank of desperados
 
Give me ideas if you get a better layout
if you have/there are any compatibility issues, fish can be separated using a grate. It's the kind of plastic grating used on ceiling lighting.. Often called Egg Crating. Should be locally avaialble from hardwares stores, Home Depot, Loewe's, etc.

Since there may be an issue with the wrasses and copper, I would keep/put the two wrasses into one aquarium.

Plan is good so far. ✔️
 
Also be prepared to do a lot of water changes. That's technically a lot of fish (size and qty) in those 40g tanks. Plus you need to up your feeding so water quality will suffer. My suggestion is to get one of those 44g brute trash cans and set it up next to the qt tanks that way you can just siphon new water down without having to carry it in jugs. This is where maintaining copper levels is critical. Best of luck!
 
Also be prepared to do a lot of water changes. That's technically a lot of fish (size and qty) in those 40g tanks. Plus you need to up your feeding so water quality will suffer. My suggestion is to get one of those 44g brute trash cans and set it up next to the qt tanks that way you can just siphon new water down without having to carry it in jugs. This is where maintaining copper levels is critical. Best of luck!
At what levels would you begin doing water changes on these tanks and on such a small tank what% would be appropriate for not shocking them or dropping the copper down low and then upping it again? Just because I can handle frequent water changes but I want to make sure I’m not further stressing a super stressful as is situation.

I read some people change out 1g a day or something like that to always keep it relatively clean however I don’t know the role of bacteria in a Qt.
 
@MartyTheAchilles The water you are adding back already will contain copper in the concentration being removed. Add copper (and measure it) to the water you'll use to perform the exchange. You see, you may have to be doing a lot of copper testing. Accuracy is important.

Use as large an exchange of water to maintain water quality (specifically, controlling ammonia). Do you have a reliable ammonia test kit?

At what levels
Levels of what, exactly? Ammonia? Keep ammonia below 0.2 ppm.

Keep us updated. (y)
 
if you have/there are any compatibility issues, fish can be separated using a grate. It's the kind of plastic grating used on ceiling lighting.. Often called Egg Crating. Should be locally avaialble from hardwares stores, Home Depot, Loewe's, etc.

Since there may be an issue with the wrasses and copper, I would keep/put the two wrasses into one aquarium.

Plan is good so far. ✔️
@MartyTheAchilles The water you are adding back already will contain copper in the concentration being removed. Add copper (and measure it) to the water you'll use to perform the exchange. You see, you may have to be doing a lot of copper testing. Accuracy is important.
Use as large an exchange of water to maintain water quality (specifically, controlling ammonia). Do you have a reliable ammonia test kit?


Levels of what, exactly? Ammonia? Keep ammonia below 0.2 ppm.

Keep us updated. (y)
I think I’m just going to bite the bullet and buy all the Hanna testers. Ive been just going to my LFS or friends house for their hanna reading as they knew exactly how to calibrate and Ive had false readings before on my Api Reef master kit. I Currently do 20% water changes weekly on the 300 and test before & after to maintain all the levels However since more daily tests will be necessary I will buy all the standard Hannas and get use to checking daily.

I planned on upping the copper slower in the tanks with the wrasses should I get 2 water bins and just x2 your process?

As far as levels go.
Ammonia
Nitrate
Nitrite ( I assume there will be more than 0 because it’s new water)
Ph
Salinity. ( I keep 300 at .25-.26. for the qt Should I keep it more at .22 ? )

Temp goal is : matching the 80 in the display
 
it's not a fixed formula. You need to perform water changes based on the needs of your two qt tanks. keep in mind since these are essentially small bare tanks you will not have any meaningful level of beneficial bacterial to keep the water "clean". Having high levels of ammonia will not help the healing process and in high levels will most certainly kill them. I have not used them but you might consider using those ammonia alert tags that hang in the tank as a snap shot of current levels then use a reliable test kit to confirm. BTW, i have a brute can mix pump and heater you can borrow but not sure if it would be worth your drive (91355).
 
it's not a fixed formula. You need to perform water changes based on the needs of your two qt tanks. keep in mind since these are essentially small bare tanks you will not have any meaningful level of beneficial bacterial to keep the water "clean". Having high levels of ammonia will not help the healing process and in high levels will most certainly kill them. I have not used them but you might consider using those ammonia alert tags that hang in the tank as a snap shot of current levels then use a reliable test kit to confirm. BTW, i have a brute can mix pump and heater you can borrow but not sure if it would be worth your drive (91355).
it’s about 1.5 hour and I might just take you up on the offer if I can’t throw it together quick enough. I’ll get back to you but I really appreciate it.
 
I Currently do 20% water changes weekly on the 300
Probably a bit overkill here. A 25% water change every 2 or even 3 weeks is usually good enough. Your testing will tell.
should I get 2 water bins and just x2 your process?
Sorry. I'm unsure what this means. :unsure: If you're referring to the exchange water, it might be helpful to have two containers with copper, one for each of the tanks. Once the copper level has been raised on both tanks to therapeutic levels, one container will be good enough. BEWARE: Plastic containers will absorb some copper and may release part of what they absorb with pH changes. Shouldn't be a problem once the plastic is 'seasoned.' Once containing copper saltwater, you don't want to use the containers later on for water exchanges on the 300 if you have invertebrates and corals in the 300.
Ammonia
Nitrate
Nitrite ( I assume there will be more than 0 because it’s new water)
Fish care most about ammonia, pH, temperature, and salinity. Not concerned about nitrates at all, and nitrites aren't their worry, either. I like the Hanna pH Tester but it's expensive. You can get a 10% discount on your first purchase on the Hanna website.
I think I’m just going to bite the bullet and buy all the Hanna testers
Probably don't need them all. Copper for sure and ammonia for fish. Other Hanna test checkers may be needed for coral growth and care. Once you get the 'hang of it' testing will be easy. Do you have some microfiber cloth? Useful in cleaning the cuvettes. Probably the hardest part of doing the Hanna tests is getting all the powder into the small mouth of the cuvette. I do so many tests I set up a stand, a funnel holder, and use a funnel. I tap the packet on one side, scissor the top off, pour the powder into the funnel, tap the packet a few times, tap the funnel a few times and I'm done. (see photo)
Hanna Testing Side View.JPG
 
I'm having a little bit of a hold back, catching the fish themselves was so much easier in my head. So I'm hoping I can get someone I know to help me today, tomorrow morning at the latest. I need to get them out of the tank and into the qt as soon as possible. Problem is my rock work has caves for most of the tangs to sleep in so they saw the net and 🏃‍♂️💨 right into the caves. I took one side of the rock down so no large cave buy oh well.
 
Probably a bit overkill here. A 25% water change every 2 or even 3 weeks is usually good enough. Your testing will tell.

Sorry. I'm unsure what this means. :unsure: If you're referring to the exchange water, it might be helpful to have two containers with copper, one for each of the tanks. Once the copper level has been raised on both tanks to therapeutic levels, one container will be good enough. BEWARE: Plastic containers will absorb some copper and may release part of what they absorb with pH changes. Shouldn't be a problem once the plastic is 'seasoned.' Once containing copper saltwater, you don't want to use the containers later on for water exchanges on the 300 if you have invertebrates and corals in the 300.

Fish care most about ammonia, pH, temperature, and salinity. Not concerned about nitrates at all, and nitrites aren't their worry, either. I like the Hanna pH Tester but it's expensive. You can get a 10% discount on your first purchase on the Hanna website.

Probably don't need them all. Copper for sure and ammonia for fish. Other Hanna test checkers may be needed for coral growth and care. Once you get the 'hang of it' testing will be easy. Do you have some microfiber cloth? Useful in cleaning the cuvettes. Probably the hardest part of doing the Hanna tests is getting all the powder into the small mouth of the cuvette. I do so many tests I set up a stand, a funnel holder, and use a funnel. I tap the packet on one side, scissor the top off, pour the powder into the funnel, tap the packet a few times, tap the funnel a few times and I'm done. (see photo)
View attachment 32385707
I wish you Iived like down the street. I would just leave the fish on your doorstep with a note like Harry Potter
 
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