I think I need help

[Skittlz]

Okay,
So I'm freaking out a little, been doing this for a while but had to go on a vacation after a deployment and came back to a missing chromis, and a Coral beauty , tested and all levels are good. But then I noticed my new bubble tip is TURNING INSIDE OUT! The man that was house sitting did an amazing job but we did kind of throw him off the deep end with the tank.
What do I need to do? Do I just say farewell?
I included pics of the tank as it just woke up and pics of the nem as well.
Any guidance would be awesome.

 

[Skittlz]

Okay,
So I'm freaking out a little, been doing this for a while but had to go on a vacation after a deployment and came back to a missing chromis, and a Coral beauty , tested and all levels are good. But then I noticed my new bubble tip is TURNING INSIDE OUT! The man that was house sitting did an amazing job but we did kind of throw him off the deep end with the tank.
What do I need to do? Do I just say farewell?
I included pics of the tank as it just woke up and pics of the nem as well.
Any guidance would be awesome.

more info
levels:
salinity: the proper 1.025
pH: 8.2 (i might buff, but not before i get this under control)
ammonia: .25
nitrite: 0
nitrate: 20-40
phos: .25 (! adding phosguard after i get this under control)
calcium: 450

and the lights i have are:
2x Galaxyhydro Led 55x3w Dimmable 165w Full Spectrum LED Aquarium Light for Reef Coral & Fish
in a custom hood i built i know i need to upgrade but they have been working for the past year i keep them dimmed to ensure i dont bleach anything.

 

[homer1475]

Ammonia is a concern. A fully cycled tank should never have anything but 0. Of course this could be attributed to the recent deaths you cannot find. Or if your using the API kit. it's notorious for showing a trace amount when there is really none.



Alkalinity and magnesium levels?


8.2 PH is totally fine and buffering is not needed. Nitrates are a tad high IMO.

 

[Skittlz]

Ammonia is a concern. A fully cycled tank should never have anything but 0. Of course this could be attributed to the recent deaths you cannot find. Or if your using the API kit. it's notorious for showing a trace amount when there is really none.



Alkalinity and magnesium levels?


8.2 PH is totally fine and buffering is not needed. Nitrates are a tad high IMO.

I am using an API kit, i just tested the tanks no3 again and it read 10ppm after letting it stand for 5-10 mins... the BTA might have just been harassed from the clowns... its not big enough to support them yet and i think they beat the crap out of it. its not eating and i dont want to stress it more.

 

[mcgyvr]

its not eating

Or it is eating... hence the missing fish..

Everything seems fine besides that and the tank looks just fine... nothing to be done but chalk it up to life and move forward..

 

[davocean]

Wish pics were better(and my eyes not blurry from cataract exam/dialated..)

Anyway, I see one nem far right that looks fine, but close up nem shot is mushy, is it the same nem different shots?

How long have you had nem?
How long tank running?
Do you have natural non blue light pics?

Close up is a nem either splitting, or mushing, hard to say from here.

A new nem is best not spot fed, and what did you feed?(Really under good light never needs spot feeding)

 

[Skittlz]

The one that looks good is a nem that I've had for a long time but not a BTA, the BTA is so small you cannot see it unless I close up on it. I can't seem to get a quality pic that is small enough in size to upload... It's about the size of a 50 cent peice.

 

[Sk8r]

Run carbon and do a 30% water change as soon as you can organize it. When you don't know/can't figure what's the matter, a water change helps. So does carbon. It's possible the chromis demised, the nem ate the chromis and is now on the way to splitting. I'd also dose a little Prime or Amquel (ammonia ridder.)