I am thinking about adding more flow to my tank. I think i need more flow because i have an ongoing algea problem. So heres my thought i have 2 koralia 2's i may lose those and add two maxi jets with the sure flow mod. My other option is add a seio 530 and add maybe a korlia 3. Do you think a wave maker will help with the algae problem. I am using distilled water running a phosban reactor. Do you think i should save money on pumps and get a ro/ di.
i want to add more flow
- Thread starter kdc527
- Start date
I have not been doing reef long but everyone says that a ro/di is one of the most important things to keep nitrates and phosphates low. Extra flow is good but you should look at the problem from all aspects.
Low phosphates and nitrates, good flow, good skimming and not over feeding.
All of these will be necessary to be successful.
I think just adding a koralia 4 and buying a ro/di would be best.
Low phosphates and nitrates, good flow, good skimming and not over feeding.
All of these will be necessary to be successful.
I think just adding a koralia 4 and buying a ro/di would be best.
kau_cinta_ku
New member
what kind of algae?
I am guessing it has to do with your water more so than your flow although the flow would help IMO.
I suggest getting a quality RODI 1st though that will help out alot more than flow will IMO.
I am guessing it has to do with your water more so than your flow although the flow would help IMO.
I suggest getting a quality RODI 1st though that will help out alot more than flow will IMO.
micahdeane
New member
+1 to the RO/DI when i first got into sw i used to use distilled water and i was always fighting algea.
the koralia 4 is 1200 gph
the koralia 4 is 1200 gph
the ro/di system i have been looking at is on buckeye equipment or the filter guys system. How many stages should i get and what is the di stage really? When i looked at some of the systems i looked at have the di stages that look like the ro stages and some are much smaller whats the difference?
kau_cinta_ku
New member
the one for 169 at buckeye's is a good one. basically the DI is what will bring your TDS down to 0ppm. so lets say your tap water is 100ppm your ro part will bring it down to 2ppm and the DI part will bring it down to 0ppm.
kau_cinta_ku
New member
alot will depend on the quality filters that are in it. you can look at the ebay 6 stage filters and then look at a buckeyes 4 stage filter and I will put money that the buckeye filter will work much better than the ebay ones.
as for how often to change the DI, that depends on the quality unit you get, the TDS of your tap water and such. and how much water you make.
but as an example. I run the purelyH20 optima pro unit and I change out my carbon and sediment filters every 6 months (you should do that anyway wether they are good or bad) and the DI will last about 5 months.
as for how often to change the DI, that depends on the quality unit you get, the TDS of your tap water and such. and how much water you make.
but as an example. I run the purelyH20 optima pro unit and I change out my carbon and sediment filters every 6 months (you should do that anyway wether they are good or bad) and the DI will last about 5 months.
Rustylugnuts
Powdered Toast Man
I think everybody's already covered it.
RO/DI + flow (pair of K1's for the back wall) + phosphate reactor IMO
RO/DI + flow (pair of K1's for the back wall) + phosphate reactor IMO
ok, I am a newbie still, what is an ro/di? thanks,I am trying to bring down my nitrates.I have a 40 vortec, and don't think I am feeding my fish too much, but I do ahve a fish and reef system, so I really need to watch it. I did have a bad algae problem, but I figured out how to work the protein skimmer, adjust it and all, so the algae is no longer a problem
kau_cinta_ku
New member
[rodifaq]
Rustylugnuts
Powdered Toast Man
Spot on:thumbsup: .
It would be like a closed loop but much easier to reconfigure.
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