icecap 660 questions

[Paul_PSU]

I have an Icecap 660 with heatsink. When I upgrade, I am going to add more T5's to my setup. I will be switching to 36" bulbs due to new tank dimensions. When I add (4) 39w 36" bulbs using an icecap 660 will it overdrive the bulbs, and if so what wattage will they burn at? If they do overdrive and I have adequate cooling inside the fixture, will the life of the bulbs be shortened if they are overdriven?

Thanks

Paul

 

[acer]

Great question - thinking about adding a 2 bulb retro T5 48" 54 watt to my existing 440watt 4 bulb VHO retro lights over my 90 gallon - in order to keep Acro's. I was told my using 1/2 of my extra 660 Ballast I would overdrive the 54 watt T5's. Wonder how much the over drive it would change the bulb wattage, life expectancy of the bulbs, heat production,etc.

 

[Paul_PSU]

I have heard that when the bulbs are overdriven you have to replace them every 6 months and then I also heard that if you have sufficient cooling then you will get 12 out of them. I am looking to have (2) 250w Phoenix 14k DE, (2) 39w T5 actinic and then (4) T5 supplemental . I will probably use Blue + and then like a pro color bulb to bring out the reds and pinks. I have ballast, endcaps, and reflectors. I am just trying to figure out if I need to sell the 660 and get standard ballasts or just use it with the 4 extra bulbs. If I have to switch out the bulbs on the 660 every 6 months then I am not going to use it.

 

[fodupos]

i know that overdriving and underdriving a bulb will shorten life expectancy.... and even worse killer is dimming the bulb... but by how much it will shorten life expectancy, i do not know... i believe it is dependent of how much the bulb is overdriven but don't quote me on that

 

[Paul_PSU]

That is my understanding also. I am trying to get real world numbers like the 39w bulbs will burn at 60w and then need replaced every six months. If that is the case then I need to get a standard ballasts or trade this one for an icecap 430.

I am just uncertain since I have seen people post that if you have proper cooling then the life will not be shortened by overdriving.

 

[raynist]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14423233#post14423233 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Paul_PSU
That is my understanding also. I am trying to get real world numbers like the 39w bulbs will burn at 60w and then need replaced every six months. If that is the case then I need to get a standard ballasts or trade this one for an icecap 430.

I am just uncertain since I have seen people post that if you have proper cooling then the life will not be shortened by overdriving.

I think the 430 overdrives them also.

If you overdrive them and don't cool them you will shorten their life.

I think the 660/430 overdrives the bulbs 54w bulbs to 80w, not sure about the 39w, but probably in the 50-55 range.

If you are using them for supplementation I would not overdrive them as I think bulbs tend to burn whiter when overdriven which may defeat the purpose.

 

[bpatrol]

icecap ballast will burn a 54 watt t5 at 80 watts a 39 watt t5 at about 65 watts.
the icecap ballast is just about the only ballast that lessens the effect of overdriving. cooling is what extends the life of t5's.
I have a solar flare light which is powered by icecap ballast and has cooling and the drop of rate of light is similar to a non overdriven light setup.
fyi both the 660 and 430 overdrive the bulbs, a workhorse does also. i believe you have absolutely the best ballast for the job. just cool it and enjoy the stronger light should be the same anout of life span over 12 months.

 

[Paul_PSU]

Hmmm, I thought that was the main difference between the 430 and 660.
The bulbs burning brighter was a concern also. I will most likely end up going with a couple standard ballasts.

 

[Paul_PSU]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14423672#post14423672 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by bpatrol
icecap ballast will burn a 54 watt t5 at 80 watts a 39 watt t5 at about 65 watts.
the icecap ballast is just about the only ballast that lessens the effect of overdriving. cooling is what extends the life of t5's.
I have a solar flare light which is powered by icecap ballast and has cooling and the drop of rate of light is similar to a non overdriven light setup.
fyi both the 660 and 430 overdrive the bulbs, a workhorse does also. i believe you have absolutely the best ballast for the job. just cool it and enjoy the stronger light should be the same anout of life span over 12 months.

Thats what I was looking for. I have no problem with the bulbs being overdriven if 1) it doesn't shift the color too much and 2) through proper cooling I can still get 12 months out of the bulbs.

Thanks bpatrol

 

[Steven Pro]

Both the 430 and 660 will overdrive T5 lamps, although the 430 will not do so as much. The 660 runs a 54 at about 80, a 39 at 60, and a 24 at 30. If you use clip on reflectors (which act as heat sinks) and fans, you can still expect 9-12 months of good life out of the T5's.

 

[Paul_PSU]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14423993#post14423993 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Steven Pro
Both the 430 and 660 will overdrive T5 lamps, although the 430 will not do so as much. The 660 runs a 54 at about 80, a 39 at 60, and a 24 at 30. If you use clip on reflectors (which act as heat sinks) and fans, you can still expect 9-12 months of good life out of the T5's.

Thanks Steve! I am going to go with the 660 I have then.

Another question about the new Icecap bulbs. Do the new 250w 14k MH DE run on an electronic ballast have the same look as a Phoenix 14k or more blue? I have to swap out the 250w MH soon and was looking at those.

 

[Steven Pro]

I have never used a Phoenix lamp before, so I couldn't tell you.

 

[Aqua-World PITT]

All our our T-5 lights over our tanks are overdriven by 660s and we use the clip on reflector. Using the par meter to check the par every month and haven't noticed a big drop at all. (they have been running for at least 8 months.

 

[cloakerpoked]

Why use t-5 supplimentation instead of standard VHO? Is it just for space/size constraints, or the fact that you plan to add t-5's for color or what? If you're using MH as your primary light anyway, do you really think you'd get much more out of t-5 than VHO as your actinic supplimentation? I guess I'm more curious than anything since I've thought about doing something like that to my tank in the future. Definitely will want your opinion on how you like the end result.

 

[Paul_PSU]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14429481#post14429481 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by cloakerpoked
Why use t-5 supplimentation instead of standard VHO? Is it just for space/size constraints, or the fact that you plan to add t-5's for color or what? If you're using MH as your primary light anyway, do you really think you'd get much more out of t-5 than VHO as your actinic supplimentation? I guess I'm more curious than anything since I've thought about doing something like that to my tank in the future. Definitely will want your opinion on how you like the end result.

There was a guy getting out of the hobby a while back and I bought several things off of him as a package deal. Included was an T5 retro with an icecap 660, endcaps, and reflectors. I was under the impression that T5HO (with individual reflectors) were more efficient than VHO since less wattage, smaller size for the output. There is also a bigger selection for bulbs. From what I had read, it went, PC < VHO < T5HO < MH.

I will definitely let you know. I plan on doing a detailed build when I upgrade my tank and add the T5's. I am going to build a light fixture out of aluminum tubing. I am also building the stand from scratch.

 

[Paul_PSU]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14424259#post14424259 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Aqua-World PITT
All our our T-5 lights over our tanks are overdriven by 660s and we use the clip on reflector. Using the par meter to check the par every month and haven't noticed a big drop at all. (they have been running for at least 8 months.

Jeff, Thanks. I will be interested in when you see a drop off in output and have to change the bulbs. I am just about ready to order. I had a setback with some repairs around the house I had to do. So it ate into my tank fund.

 

[acer]

I am going to use the Vho for color ( I think the Vho actinics are better) and the T5 for penetration/power. I will use Vho = 2 actinics and 2 white actinics and then 2 T5 10k's for coral growth. Good plan?? opinions welcome.

 

[raynist]

The VHO UVL Super Actinic bulbs have a nice color than the T-5 version from what I have seen.

 

[acer]

yep, that is the bulb I use now and will continue to use.