"ICH FREE TANK" Quest Begins

UV can work to contain the spread from tank to tank and reduce the number of free infective stages if the UV power and water throughput rate is high enough. It is just not a reliable way to eliminate diseases within a tank.
Furthermore, the small units you find in pet stores are usually just good to contain algae or bacterial blooms, but not diseases. For that you would need multi-bulb commercial units with several hundred watt of power.
 
UV can work to contain the spread from tank to tank and reduce the number of free infective stages if the UV power and water throughput rate is high enough.


well this 36w UV running at what im guessing to be 150 gph seems to be helping in a major way. the pump is sitting right in the intake chamber of sump.

jimmyJ good to hear from ya. good to see you're still setup. i got a 155 bow setup in the works. building stand now.
 
ICH UPDATE:
well the quest to be "ich free" has started once again.

running pretty good for a couple of years but eventually lack of quarantining can eventually begin to cause trouble.
I'm doing another tank upgrade(155 bf) so figured this would be the time to get get this done.

due to lack of solid planning and taking too long to get things setup with other things to do i lost some fish in a holding tank. in addition, coral holding tank has crashed so basically been nightmare in the making.

I'm planning on drying out most of the rock to kill the ich thats attached. fish are being copper treated in a 55. 2nd dose today.

i setup the new tank and added a few damsels i had prior to thinking i was going to quarantine everything. my mind is foggy on why i did that.
SO i drained that tank water into a 125g in basement and put rock out on deck to dry out. planning on putting hot water over sand and then running the tank with fresh water for a week or so to kill any ich that could have been transferred in. talk about doing things the hard way.. jeeeez.
 
ICH UPDATE:
well the quest to be "ich free" has started once again.

running pretty good for a couple of years but eventually lack of quarantining can eventually begin to cause trouble.
I'm doing another tank upgrade(155 bf) so figured this would be the time to get get this done.

due to lack of solid planning and taking too long to get things setup with other things to do i lost some fish in a holding tank. in addition, coral holding tank has crashed so basically been nightmare in the making.

I'm planning on drying out most of the rock to kill the ich thats attached. fish are being copper treated in a 55. 2nd dose today.

i setup the new tank and added a few damsels i had prior to thinking i was going to quarantine everything. my mind is foggy on why i did that.
SO i drained that tank water into a 125g in basement and put rock out on deck to dry out. planning on putting hot water over sand and then running the tank with fresh water for a week or so to kill any ich that could have been transferred in. talk about doing things the hard way.. jeeeez.

Good luck man. FWIW since the discussions in this thread I have tried the tank transfer method a few times and found it to be very effective and relatively easy to execute. Definitely easier on the fish than copper, and much easier to execute correctly than hypo.
 
hey how you been man.
tank transfer isnt something i want to do with 15 fish. im hoping that the tried and true will kill it off.

i decided to remove the sand and completely dry out the new tank. will add boiling water to sand and then dry out to kill off any possibly remaining in the tomont stage.
 
so looks like heating to 104 or 24 hours of dry time will disinfect. i will do both for the substrate.

Table 2.
Methods for disinfection of Cryptocaryon irritans life stages.

Method Concentration Duration Life stage killed
Benzalkonium chloride 100 mg/L 1 hr tomont, theront
Chlorine 2.4 mg/L 1 hr theront
Chlorine 60 mg/L 24 hr tomont, theront
Drying/dessication ----- 24 hr tomont, theront
Heat 40°C 1 hr tomont, theront

Reference: Hirazawa et al. 2003
 
Back
Top