Ich on fairy wrasses...

[MarvinsReef]

Hello.. just wanted to get some insights or suggestions on my plan to rid of a possible Ich problem on my main system..

first off, I'd like to say that I've learned a lot the past couple of days of voracious reading regarding the topics of QT and the Ich problem..

I never QT'ed any of my fishes.. I've been involve in this hobby for about 5 or 6 years now.. this is the first time I came across Ich.. and really the wrong timing to get one as I just added some very nice fairy wrasses: Hawaiian Flame wrasse, Lineatus fairy, Australian Scott's fairy, and Golden Rhomboid..

the first one to get a sign of Ich is the Flame, then it went away for couple of days.. then the Scott's started getting it.. now all four of them are starting to get more white spots... I'll take some pics for better description..

here's the plan:
tonight, I'll be setting up a QT (32g breeder) 24" x 18" x 18".. I plan on putting some different size PVC pipings for the fishes to hide in.. will have a HOB filter with a sponge coming from the main tank for the bacteria... will also have a powerhead or two for flow and such... and ofcourse a heater..

I plan on putting 60%-75% of the water from the main tank.. I'm going to try the Hyposalinity method as I've read a great deal about it and seems to be the safest and most easiest for me... I will be following the directions of ATJ on one of the sticky's.. the tank will be fishless for the length of the treatment.. about 6 weeks...

I know that this will be a great experience for me and definitely a great lesson learned... I'll keep you guys posted on how things are going as I will try to keep details w/ pics regarding this experience... wish me luck..

Thanks for reading and please if there's anything else I forgot or any of you that have more experience with this, don't hesitate to post or PM me with suggestions...

Marvin

 

[leebca]

Marvelous, Marvin.

What most fail to understand and what is not easy to find in the literature are the following points about using hyposalinity:

1) You will probably find it hard to control pH. BUT, it must be controlled. Measure it accurately and often and be prepared to adjust it up.

2) The biological filter bacteria may go into a kind of stasis condition when the salinity changes. They aren't dead, just in limbo, physiologically speaking. So, watch ammonia and nitrites closely all through the process. The bacteria will usually come back to form.

3) I'm not convinced your biological filter will handle that number of marine fishes in your QT. You may need additional support for that.

4) Starting off with tank water is okay. Just so long as you know that you cannot use it after that and use fresh-made saltwater for all changes thereafter. You probably knew this, but I thought I'd mention it anyway.

5) You can facilitate the eradication of Marine Ich during the hyposalinity treatment by vacuuming surfaces and the entire bottom of the QT twice a day -- dawn and dusk.

Gook luck! Keep us informed. :rollface:

 

[MarvinsReef]

Hi Lee.. thanks for the response.. I've also been reading up on copper use... I'm in touch with a reputable LFS that have good experience with copper use.. I'll do more reading and if my confident I can handle it and able to find a trustie (sp?) test kit... any recommendation? maybe SeaChem?

will be using this as a general guideline.. but for sure will be reading more about the use of copper..

http://www.petsforum.com/personal/trevor-jones/cupramine.html

I'll be setting up the QT tonight either way to get it ready when I begin the treatment.. maybe in a couple of days.. give the bacteria in the HOB filter to adjust a bit...

Marvin

 

[LargeAngels]

Don't use Seachem's copper test kit! It is highly unreliable as they have numerous quality problems with that product. If you really feel like reading up on it there are numerous threads in the Seachem forum. After receiving 3 replacement test kits directly from Seachem support I finally just gave up and will never use them again. I use the RedSea copper test kit. It only goes up to 0.4 ppm, but I have found this level to be very affective.

Cupramine is a great product. It is the least toxic and stressfull of all the copper medications. leebca did a nice write up on this a while back, but I just can't remember where it was.

 

[leebca]

I like Cupramine the most, for copper treatment. It is made by Seachem and hence the optimal copper test kit to use with it is the Seachem Copper Test Kit. I use it fine, but others. . .

There have been some recent complaints that their test is not reading right and that some people don't like the way the test is setup (hard to read).

Just as a backup, if you can afford it, buy the Seachem Copper Test kit if you're going to use the Cupramine medication and have a Salifert Copper Test Kit standing by.

No need to combine the copper treatment with a hyposalinity treatment. I am assuming you just want to have this on hand.

:rollface:

 

[MarvinsReef]

Thanks again for the responses...

Lee,

I will probably buy both test kits as long as my LFS carry both... what should I expect to pay for the Cupramine and the test kits?

"No need to combine the copper treatment with a hyposalinity treatment. I am assuming you just want to have this on hand."

- yes, I just plan on using either hyposalinity or just copper...

seems to me that Cupramine is going to work for me.. I'll just need to get a reliable test kit...

doing more reading as we speak..

Marvin

 

[LargeAngels]

Marvin,

I've used Cupramine on numerous fairy wrasses, pink margin, rhomboid, flame, solarensis, Scott's, labouti, pylie, etc. with no issues. Test kits shouldn't be more than $10 each.

 

[MarvinsReef]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7251883#post7251883 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by LargeAngels
Marvin,

I've used Cupramine on numerous fairy wrasses, pink margin, rhomboid, flame, solarensis, Scott's, labouti, pylie, etc. with no issues. Test kits shouldn't be more than $10 each.

great... I was just about to ask that question...

I appreciate the reply once again..

Marvin