Ich what to do

Oh thats a good idea on the rubbermaid. I didn't even think of that. I think thats what I am going to do. Thanks for the info.
 
Re: Ich what to do

I don't agree with the rubbermaid idea because you have nothing in there to break down ammonia. If you use that method I don't think you will be happy with the result. Set up a qt just like you would a main tank.


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I was originally going to set up a 75gal but I am concerned for my achilles. Is it going to be ok in there for 8 weeks?
 
I was originally going to set up a 75gal but I am concerned for my achilles. Is it going to be ok in there for 8 weeks?

In my opinion he will be fine as long as you have a good amount of flow in there. Just make sure if you are setting a tank up new it has been thru a cycle so there is no chance of an ammonia spike.
 
I was in the same boat as you. I have a 300 gallon system that I tore down twice to remove the fish. A 150 watt uv will probably run about $1000.00 that is if you go with Emperor Aquatics, thats who I looked at.

As far as idea's. It all depends on what you want to do. I like more expensive fish so I now QT and treat in Cupramine and Prazipro every fish I buy. I left my main tank fallow for 3 months, set up a 125 that I use as a QT and so far it seems to be working. I have a Blue Angel Hybrid, Multicolored Pygmy angel, yellow coris wrasse and a pair of black and white percs in the 300. I currently have a pair of crosshatch triggers and a chevron tang in the QT. I plan on getting a school of anthias and one or two more show fish all of which will go thru QT. If I were you I would remove all my fish and treat them leaving your main tank fallow for 12 weeks and I can say that because I have done it......
RBU1
do you treat with cupramine and Prazi separately or at once and for how long? I usually treat prazi the first week(unless flukes are visible) , then cupramine remaining three weeks. sorry for the hijack. hope this info helps all.
 
RBU1
do you treat with cupramine and Prazi separately or at once and for how long? I usually treat prazi the first week(unless flukes are visible) , then cupramine remaining three weeks. sorry for the hijack. hope this info helps all.

I treat sperately with everything.

When I get a fish I usually don't add any treatments until the fish are eating. I then do the same as you but I keep the Cuprmaine in for 4 weeks.
 
A prophylactic approach has worked for me, especially with Crypt and Brook. While a strong fish can live through a cycle or two of Crypt, most have a tough time fighting off Brook, it kills quick, so any jump I can get I will. I expect the worst with a new fish and dose the tank with copper and prazipro the day before I bring a new fish home. I have only lost one fish with the prophylactic approach, and I blamed that one on being a bad shipper since I got it before my LFS had a chance to put it in their tanks.
 
A prophylactic approach has worked for me, especially with Crypt and Brook. While a strong fish can live through a cycle or two of Crypt, most have a tough time fighting off Brook, it kills quick, so any jump I can get I will. I expect the worst with a new fish and dose the tank with copper and prazipro the day before I bring a new fish home. I have only lost one fish with the prophylactic approach, and I blamed that one on being a bad shipper since I got it before my LFS had a chance to put it in their tanks.

Like everything in this hooby there is more ways then one to do things. My opinion on this is not the same as yours. When you get a fish its stressed already just from the bag and who knows what else. Copper is an apetite supresent and can keep fish from eating. My suggestion is to keep the fish in as clean of water as you can till you get them eating. When they start eating then I would treat. Now if you have signs of something then obviously you will have to treat right away.
 
i have used the same technique the OK Aquarium uses. that is having my QT set at 11ppt, and only acclimating the fish to PH and temp. What i have found is fish have no problem dropping right into lower salinity water it's only higher salinity that causes problems like dehydration. I have had no fish loss, and according to the Aquarium they have not either. I did this with several tangs with zero problems, and the fish will not get re-infested with ich this way.
 
i'm super sad because all of our fishes died from ich recently.....we tried garlic..we tried doing a lot of different things..how long should we leave our tank before we add new fish..is there other procedures i should do??? or since all the fish are gone..does the ich disapper?? sorry....i'm new to this hobby.. :(
 
i'm super sad because all of our fishes died from ich recently.....we tried garlic..we tried doing a lot of different things..how long should we leave our tank before we add new fish..is there other procedures i should do??? or since all the fish are gone..does the ich disapper?? sorry....i'm new to this hobby.. :(

Please start a new thread to ask your questions. The poster is mad people hijack his/her thread.
 
I was in the same boat as you. I have a 300 gallon system that I tore down twice to remove the fish. A 150 watt uv will probably run about $1000.00 that is if you go with Emperor Aquatics, thats who I looked at.

Only quite recently did I discover that DIY UV is very easy if you are satisfied with UV without quartz sleeve.

The PVC compression fitting designed for 3/4 inch PVC will work well. This pipe has OD of 1.05 inches. T-8 has OD that is about 1 inch, close enough.

The Spears brand compression fitting have a body that is the same size as the next size up pipe. You just need one such fitting cut in the middle for each lamp.

Aquanetics without quartz sleeves were made this way, almost exactly.

I think for less than $50 you can have each G36T8 setup. So for $200 you can have a 150 watt or greater UV.

You can test the idea of a very large UV being effective against ich.

But IME a 15 watt UV is not effective against ich in a 30 gal QT.
 
I think the problem with UV against ich is not only that the ich organism is large and tough.

It has also to do with the lifecycle. It comes as a sudden wave and then respites. The UV is poor in this mode.

UV is more effective aganist bacteria also due to their steady reproduction.
 
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