Ich

[NicoleC]

Unfortunately, we all seem to learn about QT that way.

By the way, you need to QT corals and anything wet, or you risk introducing diseases again. I would cool it until your 6 week "clean up" of the main tank is complete, reintroduce your healthy fish, and then consider coral purchases. QT those for 6 weeks, too, to eliminate virtually all common fish parasites and carefully examine everything (several times) for nasty hitchhikers like zoanthid eating nudis, etc. It's MUCH easier to fix the problem in QT than after introducing it to your display tank.

You can introduce more items into QT, but the 6 week timeclock starts after the LAST addition.

 

[Tomoko Schum]

I recommend observing a new coral in a separate tank, too. Nicole's recommendation is the standard QT protocol, which is a good one to stick to.

There are a few different types of dips you can use to get rid of certain pests off corals before you put them into an observation tank (fresh water for zoa, interceptor and Fluke tab or TMPCC for acroporas.)

I rely on these dips and quarantine my corals for awhile - not quite as long as 6 weeks, though. I am also using the dip that Philip Root developed which I got at CRA. It seems to be gentle to corals, but it seems to get a lot of stuff - I see many tiny things on the bottom of the dipping container :eek2:.

Tomoko

 

[atlantisaquari]

seems to me most of the time, bad water quality or environment ( mean fish or lack of hiding places or too small a tank) stress the fish and cause them to get sick. if it is water quality . then overfeeding is very likely or underfiltration.

almost everytime i have ever seen ick. i recommend skip feeding for a day or too and then resume in less quanity. and magically the fish just get better.

ok . dont yell me please...