I bought a yellow tang and a blue tang from somebody's tank two days ago, and saw ick on the blue tang today. My tank has been ick free for a long time now, and the two tangs looked perfectly healthy when I bought them. I know transportation can stress the fish, especially the blue tang. But is this normal? What can I do now? I am afraid that the Ick might spread to other healthy fish in the tank, and I can not take out the blue tang because of the rocks. Should I go get a cleaner shrimp? Anything else I can do? Thanks.
Ick, what should I do?
- Thread starter tonggao
- Start date
You can try garlic-laced food. SOak in the juice. But tangs are very, very vulnerable to this, and if this does not go away within a few hours of feeding, you've got to get him out for treatment, if you have to lower the water level in the tank to do it [a last-resort but usually foolproof method that doesn't disturb corals or rockwork.] The prognosis for a tang with ich is grim, if untreated, and time is not your friend.
n2prelude03
New member
i use no ick, treament it works really good but kinda pricy
Mr. Ugly, thanks for the suggestions. I did not quarantine the fish because they comes from another healthy tank, and I did not want to put more stress on the fish after the transportation. Hyposalinity is going to be difficult because I do not know how to get the fish out without breaking down the tank. Not a good situation to be in
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I am starting the garlic soaking/selcon, does anyone know if the ick might go away given it is freshly developed?
.I am starting the garlic soaking/selcon, does anyone know if the ick might go away given it is freshly developed?
Mr. Ugly
New member
The garlic might help your fish, but the ich will always be there unless you break the its life cycle and kill the ich with hypo.
People get fooled and think that they got rid of ich with garlic, fw dip, pepper, and all kinds of other methods. What happens is that the parasite drops off the fish to go to the next stage, and it has nothing to do with the "cures". Later, it comes back and there are even more spots on the fish.
You really should try catching your fish. Quarantine and hypo is actually less stress for the fish.
People get fooled and think that they got rid of ich with garlic, fw dip, pepper, and all kinds of other methods. What happens is that the parasite drops off the fish to go to the next stage, and it has nothing to do with the "cures". Later, it comes back and there are even more spots on the fish.
You really should try catching your fish. Quarantine and hypo is actually less stress for the fish.
Thanks guys. The ick are getting worse, and I saw it spread to other fish today. So I am thinking about taking all the corals out of the display tank and put them in a smaller tank, and do hyposalinity treatment for the fish in the main tank (it's bigger). If all the fish make through this, I promise myself no more new fish (therefore no chance for new ick). To keep my corals happy, I will probably place the small tank next to the orignal tank, make a temp rack for the MH lighting for the smaller tank, and re-plumb the sump and equipments to the smaller tank. How fast do I need to do this, can I wait until the weekend, or should I take a day off right away to do it? Do I need to clear out all the snails/hermit/live rocks/live sand from the main tank before hypo treatment? This is going to be a major headache.
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plankton
Premium Member
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bestcryptfaqs.htm
If you go hyposalinity (e.g. 1.009 SG) you will need to remove ALL inverts as they CANNOT osmoregulate and will definitely die at that salinity.
Might be easier to transfer the fish to a QT and leave your main tank as it is. To rid a tank of Ick, Fenner recommends letting the tank go 'fallow' or without fish for 30 days.
Scott
If you go hyposalinity (e.g. 1.009 SG) you will need to remove ALL inverts as they CANNOT osmoregulate and will definitely die at that salinity.
Might be easier to transfer the fish to a QT and leave your main tank as it is. To rid a tank of Ick, Fenner recommends letting the tank go 'fallow' or without fish for 30 days.
Scott
zivic2play
New member
Good luck with that Tong. My maroon Clown came down with Ich but I was able to put it in a QT using a hypo treatment. Had it there for a month and a half. Waited until it was completely gone.
Thanks Zoilo. I will take Scott's and Mr Ugly's advice, borrow a 50G tank from Danny, rip up my current tank, and take all the fish out to do the hypo treatment. Really don't want to see any of my beloved fish to die, and am crossing my fingers. Does anyone know if any of the following fish is not good for hypo treatment:
1. Yellow Tang
2. Blue tang
3. Mystery wrass
4. Flame angle
5. Pajama
6. Scooter blenny
7. Blue chromis
1. Yellow Tang
2. Blue tang
3. Mystery wrass
4. Flame angle
5. Pajama
6. Scooter blenny
7. Blue chromis
Psionicdragon
New member
you will need to leave your tank empty for 8 weeks, but i say leave it for 10 weeks to be safe...
dots
Premium Member
Ich usually rears it ugly head when the tank is unstable and the fish are stressed.....much like when you get a cold.
Some of the "reef safe" ones work alright I have used the Kordons kick ich and no ich, but is costly and usually messes up your tank.....I don't have much faith in any of them
Usually a new fish has/gets it because it is stressed from shipping.
If your tank is stable and have cleaner shrimp it will subside and eventually go away if the case isn't that bad and the fish can surrvive long enough to fight it off naturally.....I was reading somewhere that the fish usually don't die directly because of the ich, but the scratching that leads to infection.
Some fish are more prone, tangs for instance are ich magnets and I stay away from them myself now partly because of that.
QT the bugger, copper it. Is the easiest way. To eradicate the ich from your system let it run fallow for 6-8 weeks......but without this I believe ich is always present and rears it head when fish are stressed.....esp with bad slime coated ones
Some of the "reef safe" ones work alright I have used the Kordons kick ich and no ich, but is costly and usually messes up your tank.....I don't have much faith in any of them
Usually a new fish has/gets it because it is stressed from shipping.
If your tank is stable and have cleaner shrimp it will subside and eventually go away if the case isn't that bad and the fish can surrvive long enough to fight it off naturally.....I was reading somewhere that the fish usually don't die directly because of the ich, but the scratching that leads to infection.
Some fish are more prone, tangs for instance are ich magnets and I stay away from them myself now partly because of that.
QT the bugger, copper it. Is the easiest way. To eradicate the ich from your system let it run fallow for 6-8 weeks......but without this I believe ich is always present and rears it head when fish are stressed.....esp with bad slime coated ones
