ID this Anemone Please
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OrionN
Moved on
No guess. It is a bleached, but not completely bleached, S. gigantea. It seem to be healthy otherwise (if it continue to look like that thought out the day and not deflate).
Good luck with this anemone. It should do well if you provide it with good environment which is a lot of light and current and great clean water condition. IMO, optimal flow can be seen here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X610E8tSQ_o&feature=channel&list=UL
Good luck with this anemone. It should do well if you provide it with good environment which is a lot of light and current and great clean water condition. IMO, optimal flow can be seen here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X610E8tSQ_o&feature=channel&list=UL
OrionN
Moved on
From the look of your tank, It look like you need a bit more water change and likely more nutrient export mechanism.
It should take 2-3 weeks from this point until he recovered from bleaching if you give him optimal condition. If not enough light he will not recover from bleaching. Look at my video and see if have enough flow on him. These anemones are difficult to get healthy, and difficult to keep long term. Good luck with him. You are lucky to get one that did not succumb to infection right off the bat.
How much light do you have him under? How long have you had him?
It should take 2-3 weeks from this point until he recovered from bleaching if you give him optimal condition. If not enough light he will not recover from bleaching. Look at my video and see if have enough flow on him. These anemones are difficult to get healthy, and difficult to keep long term. Good luck with him. You are lucky to get one that did not succumb to infection right off the bat.
How much light do you have him under? How long have you had him?
OrionN
Moved on
I agree. That Red mushroom fully extended at the same level at the Gigantea is not a good sign for the long term health of this very light intensive requiring anemone (like right under the 250 W DE MH).
I purchased this Carpet on 9-28-2012 and was at the bottom of the tank until I added my live rock which was on 10-13-2012 at which point I put him where you find in the pictures he didn't move there.. Since he has been that close to the light source I have seen the color you see him gaining and has begun to eat as I stated.. I have two 1400 gph ph but they were just too much for my 75 gallon so I took them out and have a koralia 450 I know it isnt enough flow per but trust me the 1400 gph was way to powerful.. As for lighting I have 4 T5 54 Watts lights two are 12000 k and 1- Purple and 1- Actinic.. Of course blue lights also.. Tell me your thoughts On what I should do? As for my nutrients 5.0 Nitrates and Phosphate .25 I do run a 30 gallon Refugium and a protein skimmer.. Was having a cyano problem but I have seen it declining lately and Phosphate was at 2.0 at that time.. Please let me know what you think... Thanks
OrionN
Moved on
I have two of the Koralia 4 which is the 1400 gph PH in my 65 gal tank. You should use the 1400 gph pump for the 75 g tank. Believe me it is not too much for these anemones or SPS if you know ho to use these optimally.
This is how I would arrange it. Place the PH on both end of the aquarium point pu to the middle. The water flow would meet each other at about the middle of the tank and your anemone should be around there under where the current meet. This would provide ideal circulation for Gigantea or Magnifica. In the picture below, you get the idea. Your anemone would do well with this type of circulation. Keep the middle of the rank relatively free of rock or corals to help improve the circulation for the anemone. The picture below show the tank with the magnifica, but Gigantea would do well there also. You can see how much current my Gigantea get looking at video I posted earlier. For these anemones, there is so much current in the tank that fine sand will get blown all over the place. I have to put a layer of shell on top to keep the sand stay in place.
FTS 65g tank setup with H. magnifica.
This is how I would arrange it. Place the PH on both end of the aquarium point pu to the middle. The water flow would meet each other at about the middle of the tank and your anemone should be around there under where the current meet. This would provide ideal circulation for Gigantea or Magnifica. In the picture below, you get the idea. Your anemone would do well with this type of circulation. Keep the middle of the rank relatively free of rock or corals to help improve the circulation for the anemone. The picture below show the tank with the magnifica, but Gigantea would do well there also. You can see how much current my Gigantea get looking at video I posted earlier. For these anemones, there is so much current in the tank that fine sand will get blown all over the place. I have to put a layer of shell on top to keep the sand stay in place.
FTS 65g tank setup with H. magnifica.
OrionN
Moved on
Excepts when I was very new 25 years or so ago, I have always use MH light. T5 is a lit better than the old VHO tubes, mainly due to the small bulbs which can be fitted with great reflectors and get all the light generated down to the aquarium.
T5 bulbs need to be change frequently. Older T5 light bulbs put out much less light than the new ones. Good individual reflector for each bulb really help, it at least double the amount of light by direct everything down to the water.
Not using it, I am not familiar with the terminology. Does it mean that you have the total of 212 W of T5 lights on the tank? For new bulbs, MH and T5 likely have about the same efficiency Most of the DE HM have great reflectors while not all T5 set up have good reflectors.
If you have total of 4X54 W (total of 212 Watts) on the tank and good reflectors, and diligently change you bulbs, you likely have enough light. However, that red mushroom you have in the tank will deflated and wilt under this amount of light. This cause me to think your light is too weak.
Read this post by phender one of the Anemone Guru here regarding his experience with CF light with Gigantea. Hist post is the first post on the 2nd page of this thread linked (page 2) below
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2205915&page=2
T5 bulbs need to be change frequently. Older T5 light bulbs put out much less light than the new ones. Good individual reflector for each bulb really help, it at least double the amount of light by direct everything down to the water.
Not using it, I am not familiar with the terminology. Does it mean that you have the total of 212 W of T5 lights on the tank? For new bulbs, MH and T5 likely have about the same efficiency Most of the DE HM have great reflectors while not all T5 set up have good reflectors.
If you have total of 4X54 W (total of 212 Watts) on the tank and good reflectors, and diligently change you bulbs, you likely have enough light. However, that red mushroom you have in the tank will deflated and wilt under this amount of light. This cause me to think your light is too weak.
Read this post by phender one of the Anemone Guru here regarding his experience with CF light with Gigantea. Hist post is the first post on the 2nd page of this thread linked (page 2) below
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2205915&page=2
Look at my other anemones in the tank I dont by the mushroom story I've seen mushrooms expand VERY large under MH and not shrink... Let me know what the pictures tell you?
OrionN
Moved on
BTA and codydactus are low light anemone. BTA routinely hid under bright light for me. I got a BTA anemone that is doing great in the 65 g tank above that is hiding right next to the overflow, on the back wall away from my 250 W MH (in the tank pictured above)
I have the same red mushroom as you have and they are doing well in the shade. The toadstool (or leatherright next to the Condy) you have also is a low light coral.
S. gigantea and H. magnifica requires highest light of the host anemones. Maybe it will do OK under your light if you keep up the bulb change and have individual reflector for your T5 bulbs
I have the same red mushroom as you have and they are doing well in the shade. The toadstool (or leatherright next to the Condy) you have also is a low light coral.
S. gigantea and H. magnifica requires highest light of the host anemones. Maybe it will do OK under your light if you keep up the bulb change and have individual reflector for your T5 bulbs
OrionN
Moved on
Add more light if you can. The main thing is having good light fixture and diligently change your light bulbs when need.
One cannot provide too much light for Magnifica or Gigantea because they take full daylight at very near the surface of the water in the wild. It seem to me, the more light I provide (within reason) the happier they are. Of course I don't put 1000W light bulb over my small aquarium.
Good luck with him. Keep us update
One cannot provide too much light for Magnifica or Gigantea because they take full daylight at very near the surface of the water in the wild. It seem to me, the more light I provide (within reason) the happier they are. Of course I don't put 1000W light bulb over my small aquarium.
Good luck with him. Keep us update
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I have attempted 2 gigs... Both came in unhealthy... I'd rather get a bleached one like yours that has a chance of making it than the ones that immediately start deflating and gaping... Bust of luck to you!!! 
Oh, and I agree with everyone else, more light and keep high!
Oh, and I agree with everyone else, more light and keep high!
shifty51008
12-5 Chiefs record
what brand/fixture light do you have? also as for flow I have 2 tunze's that put 1800gph in my 75 gal. and still wouldn't mind a little more, alot depends on placement.
I have wavepoint light fixture.. I will try again with the two PH I have..
