ideal tank setup for BTA

[kypatriot]

I have a tank that I've had up for about 6 months now, which I would like to use for a BTA and later, some SPS. The tank has a 3" domino damsel and a couple snails right now, just to keep the tank alive until ready for other occupants.

I've never kept an anemone successfully - I lost 2 LTA's when I got them without enough experience (one was bleached and never recovered, and the other began to die immediately upon introduction to my tank, leading me to think something toxic was in the water)

This new tank is a 40g, with a DIY refugium made from a 29g. I don't know what my flow rate is, but my return is a Quiet One 2200 pushing up 40" and through a SCWD.

For lighting, I have the option of using either 1 or 2 250w MH (10k). I was thinking I would probably just use 1 and keep the other stored.

I have a 2.5" tomato clown in my other tank that I'd like to add after the BTA gets settled in & wouldn't be stressed by the fish.

I would like any and all advice on how to set up this tank for a BTA, what to be sure I do or don't do, etc. I would like to get one before long, but I really want this one to survive, instead of me paying another $25 or more to kill an animal again.

Thanks!

 

[nickterp]

I think you'd probably be good with 1 250 watt halide. Maybe with some actinic supplementation in the form of PCs or VHO bulbs.

The common response I see to the question "Is this too much light?"... is always "no!". And then they go on to explain that 500 watts of halides is not too much for a 40g tank, but... its more than you NEED. Add in the the amount of heat two 250 halides will generate, and you'll have to put them way above the tank.... and then they might be performing the same amount of work as one 250 watt closer to the tank .

The key things to focus on for the BTA:

-lighting (you should def have that with the 250 halide)

-stability (40g and the 29g refugium should be great, but have it set up for at least 6 months, also do your best to have the temp, ph, salinity, etc as constant and stable as possible)

-flow (they usually don't like direct flow, but alot of turnover in the tank, with random direction, so a wavemaker would help)

-general environment (good crevices in rocks to mount its foot, no harassing tankmates, and again stable condtions)

-selection (picking out the wrong one from the store can make a huge difference as many are already doomed to die, make sure no gaping opens mouths, not bleached, extended tentacles, no tears, etc)

I think you should do fine if you do all those things. You already have a good setup planned so I think you'll do well. Good luck!

 

[kypatriot]

Thanks for the reply. I think I'll just use the one 250; as you mentioned, two is a lot of heat.

I'm also using an auto top-off, so the salinity stays pretty stable, and I have 2 heaters in the sump in case one stops working on me.

I'm excited, but still a little apprehensive about trying an anemone again. I learned before that I definitely tried too early, despite having been warned about it.

 

[nickterp]

Cool. You're doing your research this time and getting prepared so you'll have alot better chance this time.

When you pick one out at the store, get one that hasn't just been shipped in the day before or day of. My lfs told me they usually know within 2 days of shipment if its going to die. Also, find out what lighting they are using at the store. If its really weak light then slowly introduce your anemone to your stronger light (couple hours of halides to start off, then increasing by an hour every other day). If they are using halides at the store, then just give it a few hours in your tank when you first put it in with the lights off.

Also, good idea on letting the BTA get settled in before adding in the clowns. And make sure that the BTA is a decent amount larger than the clowns, cuz they will "love" it to death .

Good luck!