I'm in chiller hell...

[earwicker7]

I've been having major problems with my AquaEuro USA 1HP chiler... it's the only thing in my build that is not working correctly, and it's held the build up for weeks.

Basically, we'll calibrate the temperature on the chiller so that it matches the temp on my Apex probe. I also have access to a couple of heater controllers just to verify that the Apex probe is accurate (it is).

Somehow, the temperature on the chiller always ends up drifting to where it's +/- 5 degrees off. It seems that every time it turns on or off is when it goes nuts. Because of this, I'm completely unable to hold my temperature at the desired 75 degrees... it's all over the place.

So far, we have replaced the digital controller and the temperature probe of the chiller to no avail.

If anyone has any ideas as to what else could be causing this other than it being an expensive paperweight, I am all ears. I used a JBJ chiller on my last build, and had absolutely zero problems with it.

 

[Vinny Kreyling]

There is a set point in a chiller to tell it when to turn on & shut off.
My old chiller had a 4 degree temperature difference between on & off.
Other than that I got nutthin.

 

[mcoomer]

When I setup my chiller, I plugged it into a controlled outlet and simply controlled power with my Reefkeeper Elite. I didn't use the chiller thermostat to control its run time, instead allowing the controller to turn the chiller on and off to control the temp. I don't know if your Apex allows you to do that or not.

Mike

 

[earwicker7]

There is a set point in a chiller to tell it when to turn on & shut off.
My old chiller had a 4 degree temperature difference between on & off.
Other than that I got nutthin.

This one is supposed to have a two degree variance.

 

[earwicker7]

When I setup my chiller, I plugged it into a controlled outlet and simply controlled power with my Reefkeeper Elite. I didn't use the chiller thermostat to control its run time, instead allowing the controller to turn the chiller on and off to control the temp. I don't know if your Apex allows you to do that or not.

Mike

So did you just set the chiller to full blast and let your controller turn it on and off? I am sure the Apex could do this.

 

[mcoomer]

That's essentially what I did. It runs whenever power is applied to the outlet. The outlet is set to be powered on at 79.2F and will run until water temp returns to 79.0F, as monitored by my controller. Its worked well for about 3 years so far.

Mike

 

[earwicker7]

I will try that.

 

[mcoomer]

Just don't plug it into a regular switched outlet. If you're using the Apex power bars, there should be two outlets on that bar that will handle the higher current draw of the chiller.

Mike

 

[Breadman03]

This one is supposed to have a two degree variance.

So +/- 1 degree? Or +/_ 2 degrees, which would put you pretty much spot on for your error.

Is this the one?

It looks like you are setting up a 220. Based on the listed specs, I would think that a 1/2 hp chiller would be better suited for your tank, assuming a house temp in the 70's to low 80's and a desired tank temp in the mid 70's. Mind you, I don't use a chiller as a fan meets my needs.

 

[Ron Reefman]

I have a 1hp AquaEuro. It was hooked up to my 400g system and the chiller itself was outside behind my house in the shade. I even put it in a plastic storage with vents on both sides. I worked perfectly for 6 years. But then my 180g tank (part of the 400g system) failed (30 gph leak). So now I have a new 125g DT with a 40g sump and a 50g display refugium and I hooked the same old chiller up to the new system and it works perfectly with a 2 degree range (78F to 80F).

Have you tried using the chiller without it being tied into the Apex? Did it work OK that way? Are you sure it's the chiller that's the problem? I ask because your original post didn't say if the chiller had worked OK before. I'd try that before you do anything drastic.

 

[FF337]

So did you just set the chiller to full blast and let your controller turn it on and off? I am sure the Apex could do this.

I planned this when I first got my apex. But I called jbj a back then and it wasn't advised. The response I received, In laymen terms was there is a warm up and cool down on compressors once temperature is achieved. I believe the most important cycle was the cool down, something about the fan staying on for a short time after the compressor shuts off vs. a hard shutoff when temp is hit, it's been a long time. This won't kill the life immediately but long term it is not best.

Maybe I received bad advice and my example might not be spot on. But my chiller was almost 1000$ and I wasn't willing to risk it. It's worth checking it out for yourself.

 

[earwicker7]

Just don't plug it into a regular switched outlet. If you're using the Apex power bars, there should be two outlets on that bar that will handle the higher current draw of the chiller.

Mike

Are those the two on the right? Outlets 4 and 8? I put it on 8.

 

[earwicker7]

So +/- 1 degree? Or +/_ 2 degrees, which would put you pretty much spot on for your error.

Is this the one?

It looks like you are setting up a 220. Based on the listed specs, I would think that a 1/2 hp chiller would be better suited for your tank, assuming a house temp in the 70's to low 80's and a desired tank temp in the mid 70's. Mind you, I don't use a chiller as a fan meets my needs.

Basically, if you set it for 75, it's supposed to keep it between 75 and 77. It's been all over the map, and creeped up into the 80s.

1/2 hp was cheaper, but I would rather have something powerful enough that the chilling cycles are shorter.

 

[earwicker7]

I have a 1hp AquaEuro. It was hooked up to my 400g system and the chiller itself was outside behind my house in the shade. I even put it in a plastic storage with vents on both sides. I worked perfectly for 6 years. But then my 180g tank (part of the 400g system) failed (30 gph leak). So now I have a new 125g DT with a 40g sump and a 50g display refugium and I hooked the same old chiller up to the new system and it works perfectly with a 2 degree range (78F to 80F).

Have you tried using the chiller without it being tied into the Apex? Did it work OK that way? Are you sure it's the chiller that's the problem? I ask because your original post didn't say if the chiller had worked OK before. I'd try that before you do anything drastic.

Today is actually the first time I have hooked it up to the Apex. It's been running on it's own for a few weeks and is completely erratic. I expected results similar to yours... a two degree range.

 

[earwicker7]

I planned this when I first got my apex. But I called jbj a back then and it wasn't advised. The response I received, In laymen terms was there is a warm up and cool down on compressors once temperature is achieved. I believe the most important cycle was the cool down, something about the fan staying on for a short time after the compressor shuts off vs. a hard shutoff when temp is hit, it's been a long time. This won't kill the life immediately but long term it is not best.

Maybe I received bad advice and my example might not be spot on. But my chiller was almost 1000$ and I wasn't willing to risk it. It's worth checking it out for yourself.

I will contact AquaEuro and see if they think this is an issue.

 

[earwicker7]

I'm attaching the Apex log of the last week or so... you will see that it gets down to the target of 75, but also goes up to 82, with the average temp being around 79.5.