Im liking alot about this controller, but the power bar?

areze

New member
I dont mean to get cheap here... but 50$ per socket? 300$ for a 6socket controller? is there an alternative? this seems like a dealbreaker :( neptune geta 180 for 8sockets, RK is 90 for 4sockets. thats roughly 25$ per socket from those guys.

the unit, the expandability, the software, it all favors this profilux I think. but jeez, Id be looking at needing 18 sockets, you get one with the package for 800$, which is a bit higher than the ACpro or RKelite, but it also comes with more I think, so fair enough. but another 600$ for the sockets that actually make it work?

why are they so expensive? dont mean to sound like a whiner, just trying to rationalize this somehow... I just need these things to turn pumps on and off, I dont need them to dim or anything like that... is there a cheaper non dimming model available?
 
I run dimmable ballast, dimmable moon,sunrise/sunset, tunze
pumps, fan conreoller and allof them Do Not use a socket.

When I first looked at the controller I thought 6 will never be enough.

Now I think I'm using only 3

You will find that as you use more of the features
of the controller you need lesss sockets
 
Plus you can easily double/triple up sockets (if that works for your system) by using an inexpensive pig-tail splitter.

I have to agree with Harry-Fish, 6 sockets goes a long way unless you really want to have everything on your aquarium plugged into your power bars.

If you do require more then one powerbar, it might make sense to spend a little more and buy one of these ridiculously cheap beginner packs being offered right now just for the powerbar and turn around and sell the other components to someone else. I bet you could get a bunch of that $489 back and get a powerbar cheap that way.

James
 
I run bluewave MHs, so no dimming there :(. I also have icecap 660 VHOs, can those be dimmed by this unit? that would be kinda nice to have

aside from that, lets see... what else do I run? sorry for junking up your forum, but when I post it ussually helps clarify things in my head :)

I pretty well know I need 2, because of the lighting pulling 18 amps, it has to be on a seperate controller, though maybe the 2outlet expansion could work for this. on the high amp expansion, does that essentially add 2 slots, or does it take 2 slots from your other unit? like if I have the 6 outlet bar, and then a high amp expansion, do I now have 8 outlets, 2 of which are on a different power source?

I have the calcium reactor, which is basicly just the solenoid for the CO2, the pumps for it are not controlled.

kalk reactor is another outlet.

ozone has a few things going on there, but they all operate on the same loop.

and I have an outlet for a small T5 light on the fuge.

so... I have 4 outlets not including the lighting.

really comes down to the lighting then... is icecap660 controllable(Im fairly certain it is, but is it controllable by this unit?), and does the high amp extension add 2 outlets and are they individually controllable?
 
PS I was looking more at the EX due to the ORP and PH control, and expandability. any announcements on that? :p
 
Hi

Yes Cherry corals will be doing a BIG deal on the EX for sure :)

Ice caps are only controllable by ice cap, although if you are talking about simple on off control then of course the ProfiLux will cover this

I really think 3 bars is over kill, i would look at two and putting the MH on high amps on a seprate circuit. The two sockets of the high amp will react together, but only take up one socket of the digital bar. this option will save you lots of $$$

Ask as many questions as you wish here, thats what i am here for :)
 
ok, I think I could make this work... I could run off of 1... and Id also be able to sell my ACjr and DC8 to offset some of the cost.

is the EX deal going to be around before xmas?
 
ok, so sorry to be annoying but well Im confused :)

so I get the EX model, this will control lights, temp, and 1 PH reading, this is all possible with what comes with it right? and thats all that it does as it stands? the beginner EX package.

now it has an ORP port but no ORP probe? so add the probe and its good to go for that right? or does it need an ORP card?

and if I want another PH probe, I would need to get a PH card, and another probe?

what else... if I want to control it and get graphs and all that good stuff through the web software, how is it hooked up to the web? run a ethernet line to it or must it be connected by USB?(what is the max length for a USB cord lol). can it then send alarms by email? is there any web based interface for it to check parameters through the internet?
 
To clarify

The Plus II comes with

PH port and probe
Temp port and probe
2 x water Level ports (combined)
Switchable inputs
4 x Dimmable inputs for Tunze, LED lights and other 1-10V interfaces
Fully expandable to the EX and also onwards to the PIII

The Plus II EX

Has all the above PLUS

Redox port
Salinity Port
3rd Level port
extra 1-10V making total 6.
fully expandable to PIII when launched

You will just need the ORP probe yes.
If you want another pH then yes.

For internet access you just need the LAN card which also can act as your pc interface

Yes it can do all the other great stuff you mention also and far more.

USB length if you wish to use that option can be any length you desire, cheapest option would be to use a RS232 to USB converter.

GHL software is FREE for life also ;)
 
very good, appreciate the info. I have tunze streams, maybe I can hook those up too, sell the 7095 to offset some cost too...

last question, just the cherry on top as it were, is there a way to have a 1 touch feed timer for the tunze pumps?
 
Hey Michael,

Explain the comment that "the LAN which also can work as your PC interface".

Does this mean if you have a LAN card installed and this connects to your PC then you don't have to have a USB or RS232 connection to your PC? In other words can it do updates through the LAN card-PC connection?

Thanks,

James
 
If you saw the dimmable ballast in action you
would proabably dump your non-dimmable.
(at least for the actinics)

I originally got the dimmable ballast for the fun of it but....

Once I say how the corals change in response to the varying
light levels, and even how the fish react differently; I would
never go back to the plain old on/off type of lighting.

It is during the start and ends of the days where the tank looks
the coolest, the corals will puff up or down, and get all spiney etc.

It really is the best time to view the tank.

Good Luck
 
In regards to the pricing question at the start of the thread, the Price is due to the spec level GHL offer as follows.

High in rush 200amp relays to rotect against metal halide peaks etc.

Continual draw loading of 15amps. (house hold sockets only rated to 20amp at max)

Data eror protection via dual signal sampling

Designed to fail safe

German high grade dual switch relays for long life

User repairable if inadvertently overloaded, no need to send back unless requested.

Each bar can be daisy chained for simple connection and numbering

Hardened and shock proof non metallic case.

High impact splug sockets to take the rigors of high ampage laods continually

With the launch of the PIII that both the Plus II and Plus IIEX can be upgraded to, infinate plug bars can be daisy chained, no restrictions

The GHL power bars are manufactuered using the highest quality components in Germany all of which are CSA or UL approved.
 
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