I'm loosing the algae battle. PIC

UV will not remove nutrient... If you want a "QUICK" bandaid you can actually "black out" the tank for 48 hours (and this means no light at all). It will have a pretty dramatic effect on many algaes but still is only addressing a symptom not the cause.
 
Be carefull when doing that with this much alge in the tank, when you do that it will kill of alot of it but that dying alge will ROB your tank of O2 and could cause a crash.

I've heard of sucess stories with that and massive failures with that. So just watch your tank close if you decide to do that.
 
The tank has a very heavy fish load, in my opinion. I wouldn't add any more. I'd consider adding a refugium or returnin some fish, or both. How much is being fed?
 
He mentioned he feeds one whole cube of mysis or plankton daily. Way too much, consider removing the fish into a quarantine tank and feeding those tanks and not your hair algae.

You could also do a large water change, place the rocks in the used water, and scrub them with a stainless steel brush in there so as not to kill your beneficial bacteria living in them. Then wash the rocks with CLEAN water and return them to the tank and then turn off your lights for 2-3 days. The problem will only look like it has gone away, but like stated above it is only a bandaid to your problem.

PolyFilters, Phosban, setting up a refugium with cheato, weekly water changes, adding more flow to keep nutrients/detritus suspended, removing your fish, siphoning detritus off the sandbed, heavy efficient protein skimming, and a crap-load of patience and you will definately be home free. Good luck San Diego
 
Yep do exactly what PBUKOW said, thats how i got rid of my problem.Its important to CLEAN EVERY INCH of that Rock, scrub all that HAIR ALGAE off, and keep the light soff For a few days. Ur fish will be fine,

I would then Add a Refugium, as stated abovve, Siphon, Heavy Skimming, and After say 2 weeks, ur Tank will begin to stabalize.

REMOVE the Algae through Scrubbing
OUTCOMPETE Through the Addition of a FUGE
KEEP up those WC's

wow..so ur Just gonna ROK that Algae away...kinda nice huh.
 
Just add like 10 turbos, very cheap and reduce light period to 6 hrs a day. should help with your problem. i am not expert at reefs but i had tropical since i was 6 and i always managed to handle algae there doing no water changes....
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10073521#post10073521 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ospouh
Just add like 10 turbos, very cheap and reduce light period to 6 hrs a day. should help with your problem. i am not expert at reefs but i had tropical since i was 6 and i always managed to handle algae there doing no water changes....
You may be in for a rude awakening, no water changes in this hobby could very well spell failure...

I would still just go about this as a lifestyle change without doing a bunch of drastic things. Moving everything to QT just starts another batch of issues (cycling etc)

Reduce the food and how you give it (gotta reduce the waste of uneaten food and fish that are eating way too much)

Get something to adsorb the phosphates (plenty of advice on that around here I am sure)

Step on the water changes at least for awhile to 20% (with only 40 some gallons capacity, it is not that big of an expense)
 
Last edited:
It looks like my tank when I added decent lighting. My nitrates and phosphates fell to zero as my hair algae went into jungle mode. I did the following:

* cut back feeding
* added phosphate reactor
* started using RO/DI water
* use a mechanical filter and then use a brush to gently scrub rocks in tank.
* clean filter daily.
* I also added 7 emerald crabs and a lawnmower blenny, but I don't think they do much.

I can see the difference in a phosphate reactor in just a day when I add new material. I'm not algae free, but it's getting a lot better.

Add new rocks if you want to, but you're just wasting money. Unless you deal with the issue, you'll just start over again.

I'm in the process of setting up a 29 gallon refugium.
 
2 very important points to fix in mind:
1. plants take IN oxygen at night and give off CO2, and can suffocate your fish, if in excess.
2. phosphate that is actually in the body of the algae will not be measured by your test, so phosphate = 0 is not the case. If there is algae, there is phosphate, and a lot of it.

And I'll add a third: my tank is now 2 months old, a re-setup after a move. I had a month of hair algae. Now if I put one of those rocks in my tank it would be bare as an egg [give or take bubble algae] inside a week. Hair algae simply will no longer grow in my tank. If I put in a dry uncured rock, I'll get a little green on it, but no hair. Why? Water quality, refugium that sucks up phosphate, balanced cal and alk, and just tank maturity. I feel for you: it's a phase you've got to nurse that tank out of. But start trying to make that water fit for sps coral and I'm betting your algae problem will cure itself. My params: 8.3 alk, 420 cal, 80 temp, 8.3 ph, phosphate's in there---I have that refugium; no nitrate, nitrite or ammonia; salinity 1.025. TDS on my ro/di filter, 0. I know it's not a focused approach, but I think it would work for you.
 
Oh, and dose kalkwasser. It will precipitate phosphate. It has also gotten my coraline algae growing, and where coraline grows, hair algae can't.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10073852#post10073852 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Sk8r
2 very important points to fix in mind:
1. plants take IN oxygen at night and give off CO2, and can suffocate your fish, if in excess.
.
awww not sure where you got that but it is backwards... plants respire O2 into the water column after consuming C02. The O2 levels drop in the tank at night because photosynthesis quits when the lights go out. C02 release by fish and bacteria begin to backup...
 
hmm, then it's changed from when I got it in school, but then that was dino years ago. The way I heard it, they take in co2 during the day and give off o, and the reverse at night. But that's subject to revision...you've got me curious now.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10073890#post10073890 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Randall_James
The O2 levels drop in the tank at night because photosynthesis quits when the lights go out. C02 release by fish and bacteria begin to backup...

I think he got it right unless running a reverse photocycle. Plants also metabolized oxygen, but will have a net surplus of oxygen with photosynthesis, but remove the light and the surplus turns into a deficit. It's a living organism after all.

Plants need to be part of your calculations for max load for gas exchanges for night time, power outages, etc.
 
Photosynthesis is the process of converting light energy to chemical energy and storing it in the bonds of sugar. This process occurs in plants and some algae (Kingdom Protista). Plants need only light energy, CO2, and H2O to make sugar. The process of photosynthesis takes place in the chloroplasts, specifically using chlorophyll, the green pigment involved in photosynthesis.
PH tends to start dropping as 02 levels drop in your tank at night. (aeration raises PH in this case). Co2 is released by the living organisms at night yes, but the lack of photosynthesis is also why C0s levels tend to rise as well.

Aeration can offset some of this by outgassing the C02, the reverse light cycle helps further by allowing photosynthesis to continue in the refuge, thus you end up with a more stable PH number.
 
Last edited:
And that was grade school and thus way simplified when I learned it---I looked it up, and it's a bit of both on my sources: the nighttime thing is true---not as true as hospitals believed when they began pulling potted plants from patient rooms at night for fear of oxygen shortages---but while they do both o and co2 during the day, during the night, the balance tilts toward giving off co2, while during the day [answering one of my own kid-questions from long ago] the rate of oxygen production far outstrips the nighttime oxygen consumption and co2 production [which makes a certain sense because the energy input has dropped drastically at night]---my juvie question was why we don't all choke at night all over the planet. My kid-thought was, answering my question, well, half the planet is in daytime at any given time, but the better answer is, plants are a good bargain in the oxygen department because they net more oxygen production than co2 production over all, by quite a large margin. Because of solar input, they're more energetic during the day, so produce enough to 'tide over' a closed system until the morrow.

It does, however, point up the possibility that a 3-day dark as recommended in one thread on RC could begin to tip the balance uncomfortably toward co2 in a heavily choked tank, partly because of depletion of 0 by all living things in the tank, but also because of the vegetable dieoff, which might diminish the carrying capacity of the water for oxygen.

Just thoughts, and I don't want to carry this thread aside from the chap's problem. But a 3-day dark is one possibility---and I think if tried, it ought to be approached with caution, testing, and watching the fish for signs of problems. I'd certainly combine it with phosban in the hope of uptaking some of the phosphate released if there's a dieback.

Thoughts, anyone? Am I thinking straight now? I'm the world's worst chemist.
 
Well bottom line is nutrient import, it is excessive and the result is algae issues (probably the number 1 complaint in this hobby)

Cut the import, pickup the export, work on water quality and the issue will go away. It just does not happen overnight is all.

It would help if people held off stocking their tanks longer after setup. So many have full fish loads 3 or 4 months into a tank and in reality they should not even have 1 yet.
 
My 02

Patience .. no quick cure for algae issues.

Reduce feedings, increase frequency/quantity of water changes using RO water, cut back on lighting period, use a phosphate binder, if you use filter media clean it out every couple days, consider reducing stocking level.

You can also take some of the worse offending rocks out of the tank and scrub off the algae in a bucket of SW ... I would rinse in another bucket of clean SW before placing back into the tank. If money isn't a problem you can always replace some of the worse offending rocks (still need to implement the other recommendations to prevent the problem from coming back)

Good luck.

Edit ... two items I forgot .. wet skimming (will help reduce phosphates/nutrients) and dripping kalkwasser may help sustain higher ph (often thought helpful with algae issues) and it may also help precipitate phosphate from the water column.
 
Last edited:
I do drip kalk, as of several weeks ago. My lfs suggested aiming the kalk drip tube right over the skimmer intake, as an assist in getting the phosphate out. I'm still battling caulerpa, myself [the stuff actually grows in the dark, and I DID the 3-day dark] but lately, with the new kalk drip and a 20g fuge, I'm seeing some faint indicators of headway against the stuff...ie, it's growing more slowly and with more feelers than fronds. So maybe the kalk thing is working. Jury's still out on that aspect, but the corals are happier...

Randall, I absolutely agree with you about the overstocking of new tanks. Seems as if the first thing everybody wants to do as cycle ends is rush out and load the tank with every fish they can get in, and we're not stressing enough exactly what you said.
 
Back
Top