Im ro/di dumb
- Thread starter Andrew
- Start date
RobbyG
Active member
At this rate you might as well throw on $10 more and get a Typhoon III.
Thats the problem with the cheap RO systems. To make them good you have to add or change many pieces. In the end it will cost just as much as the Brand Name one! Only problem is that your still left with cheapo Filter Housings, thats why it's best to start with a good one.
Thats the problem with the cheap RO systems. To make them good you have to add or change many pieces. In the end it will cost just as much as the Brand Name one! Only problem is that your still left with cheapo Filter Housings, thats why it's best to start with a good one.
cmhollis
Active member
I agree with RobbyG. If you are looking at $190, then throw in the extra $10 and get the Typhoon III from Walter. It comes with a 75 gpd membrane, vertical DI chambers, pressure gauge, TDS meter, and Auto-shutoff valve.
I have one, and would recommend it to anyone. Walter's customer service is unmatched.
Mike
I have one, and would recommend it to anyone. Walter's customer service is unmatched.
Mike
AZDesertRat
In Memoriam
Getting back to your question on where and how to mount the RO/DI unit, it really doesn't matter what level you put it at in comparison to the sink. Water is fed to the unit under pressure and not by gravity. You just need to make sure you have 50 psi of so available to feed it and you have a place to send the waste stream. There are several methods of plumbing the feed, one is using a self piercing saddle valve on a cold water line. Another is a tee fitting that screws on inline right next to the wall valve and then you attach the cold water line to one side and the RO to the other. These work pretty slick and can be removed at a later date if you decide to abandon the feed. A third is a faucet or hose bib adapter that you can attach in place of the screen on the faucet or on an outside hose bib of with a wye fitting on your clothes washer cold water line.
The plumb the waste you use a saddle tee in to the P trap underneath the sink. Make sure to follow plumbing codesand attach it on the sink side of the trap and not the sewer side so you lessen the risk of a cross connection.
You have been getting pretty good advice on units to purchase. The 75 GPD Dow Filmtec membrane is the best available hand down. I would look at www.airwaterice.com , www.purelyh2o.com , www.buckeyefieldsupply.com and www.thefilterguys.biz . My pick for best value is the Typhoon III because of the features it comes with as well as their customer service but all the others I mentioned sell very good quality units too.
Most and I repeat most e-bay units that are cheap are cheap for a reason. There are exceptions to every rule but for the most part quality units cost a tad more up front but save you money in the long and usually short run by giving you longer DI resin life, better quality components and hardware, more added features like pressure gauges, TDS meters, float valves and longer RO membrane life due to better prefilters and carbon filters. RO/DI is not a place to try and save a dollar. You will pay for it eventually and I can almost guarantee you it will cost you more down the road to upgrade to what you could have had the first time.
The plumb the waste you use a saddle tee in to the P trap underneath the sink. Make sure to follow plumbing codesand attach it on the sink side of the trap and not the sewer side so you lessen the risk of a cross connection.
You have been getting pretty good advice on units to purchase. The 75 GPD Dow Filmtec membrane is the best available hand down. I would look at www.airwaterice.com , www.purelyh2o.com , www.buckeyefieldsupply.com and www.thefilterguys.biz . My pick for best value is the Typhoon III because of the features it comes with as well as their customer service but all the others I mentioned sell very good quality units too.
Most and I repeat most e-bay units that are cheap are cheap for a reason. There are exceptions to every rule but for the most part quality units cost a tad more up front but save you money in the long and usually short run by giving you longer DI resin life, better quality components and hardware, more added features like pressure gauges, TDS meters, float valves and longer RO membrane life due to better prefilters and carbon filters. RO/DI is not a place to try and save a dollar. You will pay for it eventually and I can almost guarantee you it will cost you more down the road to upgrade to what you could have had the first time.
AZDesertRat
In Memoriam
Andrew, contact the vendor and see if they will tell you who make the RO membrane. I have had no luck with them answering that question. I personally think it is a Chinese knockoff that is not ANSI/NSF approved for drinking water use in the US. Notice they rotate the picture so you cannot read a name on it. I seriously doubt it is made in the US much less approved in the US.
If they would supply info on its origin we could do some research on its quality.
If they would supply info on its origin we could do some research on its quality.
RobbyG
Active member
The level of filtration is not as good, something like 95% vs 99%.
The DI Resin will mop up the excess but The DI gets used up a lot faster with the 95% RO membrane versus 99% so your operating costs keep going up. Most people just hookup a TDS at the final output and see "0" so they think the unit is perfect. If they were to sample the water before the DI cartridge they would see that the DI is getting hit by higher than normal TDS levels.
The DI Resin will mop up the excess but The DI gets used up a lot faster with the 95% RO membrane versus 99% so your operating costs keep going up. Most people just hookup a TDS at the final output and see "0" so they think the unit is perfect. If they were to sample the water before the DI cartridge they would see that the DI is getting hit by higher than normal TDS levels.
Andrew
Active member
I understand what you mean about it being cheap for a reason. I just need a simple ro.di unit. Nothing special. I've used tap for 2+ years now and am getting sick of the algae. I don't care if the water isn't all the way distilled. Anything is better then tap water to me. I would be happy say, with something like this:
http://www.hellolights.com/puiiroun50gp.html
http://www.hellolights.com/puiiroun50gp.html
AZDesertRat
In Memoriam
Several things raise a red flag on the Hellolights one you referred to. One is it says 60 psi, so that tells me it is not a Dow Filmtec RO membrane. Dow are designed to produce their rated flow at 50 psi whereas GE Water and Applied Membranes require 60 or even 65 psi to produce the same amount of water.
Next it uses a 1 micron prefilter and does not give a micron rating on the carbon block. I suggest the Typhoon III and others that use gradually finer filters in series so you don't prematurely plug the first filter ie 10 micron prefilter, 5 micron carbon, 1 micron carbon, that way each filter traps waht it can and passes the rest to the next filter downstream. Each filter shares in the load and does not plug before they are ready to be changed out at the recommended 6 month intervals.
Next the DI does not appear to be refillable which will save you scads of money by utilizing bulk resin rather than throw away cartridges.
Finally it does not appear to have an autoshutoff valve, pressure gauge or TDS meter all of which are almost must items if you are looking for good water quality and a trouble free unit.
I am not sold on inline TDS monitors unless they have an easy way to clean and calibrate them. Having worked around treatment plants and water production facilities for over 30 years I learned not to trust something I could not check and calibrate on a regular schedule. Once residue builds up on the sensing elements your readings are skewed. I much prefer a handheld unit or would at a minimum have both so I could check the accuracy of the inline unit.
Next it uses a 1 micron prefilter and does not give a micron rating on the carbon block. I suggest the Typhoon III and others that use gradually finer filters in series so you don't prematurely plug the first filter ie 10 micron prefilter, 5 micron carbon, 1 micron carbon, that way each filter traps waht it can and passes the rest to the next filter downstream. Each filter shares in the load and does not plug before they are ready to be changed out at the recommended 6 month intervals.
Next the DI does not appear to be refillable which will save you scads of money by utilizing bulk resin rather than throw away cartridges.
Finally it does not appear to have an autoshutoff valve, pressure gauge or TDS meter all of which are almost must items if you are looking for good water quality and a trouble free unit.
I am not sold on inline TDS monitors unless they have an easy way to clean and calibrate them. Having worked around treatment plants and water production facilities for over 30 years I learned not to trust something I could not check and calibrate on a regular schedule. Once residue builds up on the sensing elements your readings are skewed. I much prefer a handheld unit or would at a minimum have both so I could check the accuracy of the inline unit.
bkwudzjeep
O|||||||O
I just found this article..... http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-04/rhf/feature/index.php
I have also seen some calibrating fluids for TDS meters. I thought I read somewhere that some take thier TDS meter to the LFS and calibrate with thier water (not sure if thats the best idea though).
I have also seen some calibrating fluids for TDS meters. I thought I read somewhere that some take thier TDS meter to the LFS and calibrate with thier water (not sure if thats the best idea though).
ernordstrom
New member
I just now got off the phone with Brian from www.airwaterice.com and I ordered the TYPHOON III. What a really nice guy and so knowledgable and enthusiastic about the hobby. Airwaterice definitely knows customer service!! It comes with everything you need and if you are a reefcentral member you get a FREE FLOAT VALVE...Thats right, you get a free float valve.
I find it ridiculous seeing all of these people complain about the price of an RO unit and end up settling for an ebay unit. They are taking the most important part of the reef tank and just rollling the dice mearly to save a few dollars...I bet the ebay units don't stand by their products like the guys at airwaterice . JMO
I find it ridiculous seeing all of these people complain about the price of an RO unit and end up settling for an ebay unit. They are taking the most important part of the reef tank and just rollling the dice mearly to save a few dollars...I bet the ebay units don't stand by their products like the guys at airwaterice . JMO
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