imisky's 30G custom system

Beautiful nano setup.

Can you give any advise to new hobbyist. Share past experiences with livestock and hardware.

And if you will be able to start over, what equipment will you choose?

Thanks jdantunes,

My current setup is a sumpless system, it works well for me but its not for everyone. What i do like about it is you dont have to worry about leaks, but a properly done sump system wouldnt have it either imo its more for people that are uncomfortable with drilling.

If i was to start all over again, i would probably go with a sump, ditch the deltec MCE600 skimmer and go with an insump cone skimmer. other then that i wouldnt change anything.

As an update at the same time...my fish have started to disappear one by one im now down to 3 damsels and 1 cardinal....i have no idea where they are going, no bodys inside the tank nor any outside:hmm1:. whatever is left is all healthy still and eating like crazy so im pretty confused as to what is going on.
 
The tank is looking good!! :thumbsup::thumbsup:


Do you have any pets? Like dogs or cats? Maybe the fish jump out and they eat them or something? lol
 
The tank is looking good!! :thumbsup::thumbsup:


Do you have any pets? Like dogs or cats? Maybe the fish jump out and they eat them or something? lol

thanks,

ya i have a dog, though he barely comes into the room that the tank is in, but i guess thats a possibility lol will have to keep my eye out. The weird thing is most of the fish that disappeared, disappeared within 2-3days time
 
hey guys, i hope everyone had a nice holiday so far. Just thought i would drop another update on the thread. So aside from the family and friends lately a side project has interested me. Ever since i saw the mame overflow from Mame Designs Ive wanted to get one. Well being in Canada we dont have alot of choices plus the fact that even in the US they are on backorder. So i thought I would build one myself, out of acrylic and make it a replica.

So the project begins.

With 7/8" OD piping for the drain and 5/8" OD for the return im thinking it would do a little less then what the mame ones are designed for, though not sure exactly yet how many GPH it'll be able to handle.

With this project i decided to bend the tubing a little differently then what i would normally do it which is with fillers. I bent all these pipes using purely just a heat gun and the end result was better then i had expected. no kinks on the tubing at all and it took a whole of about 20mins to do all the pipes.

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after that was pretty straight forward. Simply cutting down the pipes to your desired length and use vinyl tubing to connect them. For me i used 5/8" ID for the return and 3/4" ID for the drain. If you cant get the 3/4" to put just simply heat it up with a blow dryer and it should be good to go.

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All thats left now is to add the auto priming venturi to the drain and im good to go. Though im thinking if i should install the venturi to the return pumps intake or the return pipe. I havent decided yet on that but we'll see. hope you guys enjoyed this.
 
Nice DIY work.

You should build one of their skimmers too.

thanks, as much as i like there overflows there skimmers arent all that impressive to me. with so much venturi skimmers out there its hard to justifice the reason of needing a air driven skimmer. Though there skimmer would be as easy as it gets with acrylic. a tube + a rubber stopper on top with a 90 degree barb and another 1/4" acrylic tubing going in from the side of the chamber.

as for the overflow, its complete, took about 3 days with roughly 8 hours of total labour its finally done. IMO it should work just as good as the mame one but i guess thats something i'll have to test. I have placed an order for a quiet one 3000 once that pump gets here i'll test it and post up a video of it.

here are some picture during the meantime.
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where did you purchase your lights from? im interested in also putting a few par38s on the 30g i am starting. i want to keep some sps and this is my bulb of choice.
 
where did you purchase your lights from? im interested in also putting a few par38s on the 30g i am starting. i want to keep some sps and this is my bulb of choice.

The bulbs were purchased from Oceanic Corals and work wonders

subscribed!

love the tank. how many tanks did you have before this one?

greetings

Thanks! Ive prior to this tank all i had were pico sized tanks from 4-8g roughly.


now for an update, before i even got the overflow fully working i broke it... it would work but the venturi tube i used wasnt big enough and as a result the vaccum was too slow. On a restart the water would get to the rim of the tank before the siphon would start and that was a little scary for me so i decided i was going to bore the venturi bigger. As it turns out that wasnt the easiest thing to do on a bent pipe the result was a cracked return venturi and i abandoned the idea after that....For anyone who wants to attempt the project make sure you get a thin walled 1/4" venturi for yours as it'll save you quite a bit of hassle. In the end i think the experience was good, making the overflow wasnt hard and the cost was roughly about $25 for all the materials.

So what happens now as a result of the overflow failing i decided that its time to change my system around a little. Having the hang on back stuff while great and trouble free has gotten to me finally...and a new tank is in progress. Not any bigger with the dimensions of 36"L x 13.25"W x 13" H its only a few gallons bigger but it'll be running a herbie style drain and would remove all the distraction from the back of the tank and put it in the sump.

Heres a few quick renders i did of the system. The only thing im not so certain about right now is the herbie...to me it will work just fine but i've never seen anyone yet that has a herbie system like that so let me know what you guys think, any issues that you guys can see from the drain setup?

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Eugene,

Once again, I have been a great fan of this tank for some time. I hope this isn't too wordy or out of line.

In designing and testing my herbie overflow, I keep coming back to three key factors. These are seals, head height and aesthetics. The first is obvious - your tank will drain to the lowest exit point, if your overflow box isn't sealed, the entire thing is all but useless. Full length weirs have the disadvantage of having either seals that are longer than they need to be or wasted/hard to reach space at the bottom half. The obvious counter argument is that they make for a cleaner, less distracted look.

I drafted several "full length" weirs and overflow boxes but eventually decided on a smaller one for a couple reasons - its cheap/easy to make and install, reusable as its not sealed to the tank itself, less acrylic I will have to scrape coralline algae off of in the long run and finally, smallest visual foot print in the tank.

Included is a picture of my prototype which is about 2x3x5 1/4" and houses two 3/4" bulkheads - its been tested at ~300gph silently (though it will handle much more, expect more rise in the tank water level to create enough pressure to flush the siphon) and I even have an egg crate insert that I use to hold pre-filters made out of old filter socks - though they gunk up faster, there is much less surface area for bacteria/phosphates to accumulate than a filter sock and they effectively keep junk/snails/dead animals from clogging the impossible-to-see pipes.

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b269/misterchezpt/SSC_1783.jpg
hope Ive been helpful!
-Peter
 
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Eugene,

Once again, I have been a great fan of this tank for some time. I hope this isn't too wordy or out of line.

In designing and testing my herbie overflow, I keep coming back to three key factors. These are seals, head height and aesthetics. The first is obvious - your tank will drain to the lowest exit point, if your overflow box isn't sealed, the entire thing is all but useless. Full length weirs have the disadvantage of having either seals that are longer than they need to be or wasted/hard to reach space at the bottom half. The obvious counter argument is that they make for a cleaner, less distracted look.

I drafted several "full length" weirs and overflow boxes but eventually decided on a smaller one for a couple reasons - its cheap/easy to make and install, reusable as its not sealed to the tank itself, less acrylic I will have to scrape coralline algae off of in the long run and finally, smallest visual foot print in the tank.

Included is a picture of my prototype which is about 2x3x5 1/4" and houses two 3/4" bulkheads - its been tested at ~300gph silently (though it will handle much more, expect more rise in the tank water level to create enough pressure to flush the siphon) and I even have an egg crate insert that I use to hold pre-filters made out of old filter socks - though they gunk up faster, there is much less surface area for bacteria/phosphates to accumulate than a filter sock and they effectively keep junk/snails/dead animals from clogging the impossible-to-see pipes.

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b269/misterchezpt/SSC_1783.jpg
hope Ive been helpful!
-Peter

Hey Peter

Thanks for following the thread and the feedback, Ill put everything into consideration though i want to keep the tank as clean looking as possible thus thats the reason the full length weir was chosen. I cant wait to get this new tank going!
 
tank is almost complete, having decided to go with the design with a few dimension adjustments as to where the bulkheads will go i ordered the glass. 1/4" glass with beveled edges look super nice..instead of hand polished edges like i have on my current tank. For those interested in the building process of tanks i unfortunately got too excited when the glass came that it didnt even cross my mind to document it. Im currently thinking if i should start a new thread for this system...since its not 100% new maybe i'll just keep going with this one. It allows everyone to see the progression of the tank instead of having to dig up an old thread..i dont know what would you guys like to see?

meanwhile heres some pictures i did take the acrylic overflow is being cut right now and once i receive the pieces the tank itself will be complete and ill be moving onto building a simple 15g sump with no baffles that i'll be using as my frag tank as well.

the first photo is about as close to a progress shot as it gets...though i shot the picture with my lens 50/f1.4 lens wide open so its a little soft...but hopefully the point comes across, if not it shows i use corner clamps.

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Of course we want more details!

First of all, what kind of silicone did you use? Im already on my 2nd order of RTV108 as the first one showed up expired (didn't even know that was a possibility) Secondly, how did you assemble the tank - did you mask it off or just spot the silicon with your unnaturally steady hands?

In response to your question about whether or not to split the thread - perhaps an edit of the first post with a hotlink to this page would be sufficient.
 
Of course we want more details!

First of all, what kind of silicone did you use? Im already on my 2nd order of RTV108 as the first one showed up expired (didn't even know that was a possibility) Secondly, how did you assemble the tank - did you mask it off or just spot the silicon with your unnaturally steady hands?

In response to your question about whether or not to split the thread - perhaps an edit of the first post with a hotlink to this page would be sufficient.

I used NuFlex 333 aquarium silicone and its great and from my experience you get a little bit more work time than the GE stuff but not by much before the thing starts to skin over.

Silicone does expire and when it does well....its unusable and gives you a very tacky result on the silicone when its cured.

I assembled the tank by creating a jig with the corner braces, once everything is in place i masked the glass and went to town with the silicone. Ideally i would have gotten my pneumatic caulking gun but i didnt have it on hand at the time and would mask the tank with or without the proper gun as it saves me time in the cleanup process.

and thanks for the advice maybe i will just start a new thread and link this guy thats a pretty good idea.
 
small update, everything is now ready to go. The display overflow teeth has been added in and the only thing left is for my new skimmer to arrive (SWC 160cone) once thats here the swap will happen on the next free day i have and hopefully ill be able to do it at once.

So the new tanks equipment set will be:

Main Light: 5 XP-G PAR38 spotlights with 60degree optics and driven at 750ma
Sump Light (for frags):1-2 XR-E PAR 38 spotlights with 60degree optics and driven at 750ma
Skimmer: SWC 160 cone
Return Pump: QO 3000
Power Heads: 2 Vortech MP40WES
MISC: TFL reactor for Biopellets

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Awsome tank!! Just went through the whole thing and it is great. i can actually say im glad you didnt start a new build thread cause i probably wouldn't have seen all of this. keep it coming!
 
a small update guys

so the date of the transfer from my old tank over to the new one has been decided it'll happen on feb. 5-6th and give me 2 days to make sure things are working the way they should. Lots of photos will come with the transfer so stay tunned.

the skimmer is in! and is it a nice piece of hardware. Yes its overkill but im planning to stock quite a few damsels along with a auto feeder into this tank so it'll be able to handle the load no problem. The packaging on the skimmer is imo as good as it gets, the foam used in the packing is 1"thick on all sides and when i got the box it felt rigid. The skimmer came with everything, and a piece of paper for the manual

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The skimmer itself had pretty good craftsmanship, a decent thickness on the acrylic was used and the seams seem well put together. The collection cup snaps in via a compression of o-ring like you would see on a BK or vertex cone. The venturi is pretty nice to, it snaps in just like the collection cup so cleaning should be pretty easy.

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