In-Wall 180 Project

[jarhed]

Well, after a long and sweaty weekend, I'm finally on the home stretch.



I tidied up the wiring in the attic, but still need to pin down and seal the wires at the top of the fish room.

Finished plumbing on the closed loop. Found a few leaks. It appears that I was tired enough to completely forget thread tape on the screw in's. Easy fix. You'll notice a 3/4" pipe sticking out of the closed loop feed on the left. This is for draining for water changes. There will be a valve, then an elbow pointing down, then the pvc to hose adapter. I'll just hook up the hose and let it drain into the street. I'm horrified of destroying my septic tank and I'm sure saltwater is not good for the grass:

Here is the overflow. Had to do a stockman standpipe because a Durso wouldnt fit. Works fine but is a little low. The waterfall sound back there is horrible. I plan on making the standpipe about 5" taller to alleviate this issue and cut down on all the splashing and inevitable salt creep. I havent capped the 3/4" pipe at the top yet, but will and add some air hose and a valve to increase the drain flow. Right now, the drain wont keep up with the new Pan World return pump I got today (GenX was WAYYYY too loud!):

Here is my sump. You cant see the last section where the PanWorld is pulling for return, but it's there. I had to meter back the PanWorld because it's too fast for the overflow until I can finish the standpipe properly. BTW, the PanWorld is plenty powerful and lemme tell ya, it's so quiet I had to get down on my knees to make sure the thing was on!!!:lol: I'll be replacing my brand new Little Giant loop pump with a PanWorld also. Have another Little Giant for the skimmer but we'll see if that one gets replaced:

Your thoughts? Concerns?

Only things left: The HVAC guys will duct the AC into the room this Saturday, the Little Giant loop pump on the left will be replaced with a Pan World (much quieter pumps!!), I still have to plumb in and mount the skimmer, put my mixing tub in, build a stand over that for the topoff water container, and a shelf over that for the ballasts. Then, I have to build an electrical control panel and hang the lights.

Not too far to go!

 

[qwuintus]

looking good, whats the T for on the closed loop? you going to be sucking something up?

 

[jarhed]

looking good, whats the T for on the closed loop? you going to be sucking something up?

hehe!!

Nah, it's for draining for water changes. I'll be putting a valve on there, then an elbow, ending in a garden hose adapter. The pump of course will be off when draining. Just gotta figure out where to put a mark on the tank so I know when I've hit 20gallons and can close the ball valve.

 

[captbunzo]

It looks like you have one of those check valves I have seen on the internet for $20-$30. I assume you got that so you had less to worry about concerning failing check valves?

How much more reliable to you guess them to be?

 

[jarhed]

Actually, I got the check valve from a LFS in Irvine, CA. ONly cost $17. Not sure I've seen the other type of check valve, except the ones at HD which are spring loaded.

 

[Lincutis]

Jarhed, I have been following the thread. Nice work. Waiting to see it occupied. Thought I would drop in a note. If you get a piece of rubber and screw down the pumps it may reduce that vibration and quiet them down.

 

[jarhed]

Good point Lincutis,

I was definitely planning on screwing them down, wasnt aware that would reduce the vibration though. Thanks for the tip!!

Folks, just so you know when I respond to questions about who built this system, the response will be myself and friends on RC. Honestly, without your guidance and advice, I'd have no clue where to start. I have never done anything like this ever and wouldnt have even tried were it not for watching the build and progress of folks like Weatherson, Steve Weist and others, and the guidance of you folks with much more experience.

Please feel free to add your tips and advice anytime. Dont hide!

 

[Bax]

jarhed

I use a piece of foam pad under my pumps when I screw them down really helps cut down on vibration.

 

[Ehydo]

jarhed

I use a piece of foam pad under my pumps when I screw them down really helps cut down on vibration.

IF the screw holes do not have rubber gromets you might also want to put those on and mount with a screw and washer.

 

[jarhed]

Kewl,

I'll definitely do that. None of them really have rubber feet, but I'll fashion some out of some thick mouse pads or something.

I corrected the Stockman Standpipe tonight, tested, then emptied the tank. Well,... it's still draining into the back yard now. The first baffle in the sump decided to give and one of the last baffles decided to give a little. The first baffle is the one I used only silicone on. Duh!! :hmm6:

The other baffle, which also borders the center fuge area, was glued with weld-on, then siliconed over top. There is a LOT of water flow through that 60 gallon sump! So, I'm going to re-glue both back in and as usual, seal them with silicone. I think the first one came off from the natural bowing of the acrylic tank. Just pulled the silicone right off. The second one that was glued was probably the same thing. That tank is going to bow no matter what I do. I couldnt think of a way to cut the baffles with a bow in them that would meet the expected bow of the tank, so I guess I'll just have to keep my eye on it. :furious:

Anyway, snapped a couple pics of the stockman re-construction:

I put a piece of RO tubing and a valve in the cap to the 3/4" pipe to control the rate but even with the valve all the way open, it went through flushing cycles. So, I just cut the tube down to a smaller size and removed the valve, ...... no more flushing. Perfectly consistent draining with no noise at all!

 

[qwuintus]

is that 1.5"? man for a 180 id have at least of those

 

[NexDog]

Great project. Mine is coming up quick and I'm a little scared because I have not alot of plumbing knowledge. Great to see how much everyone helps so that does make me feel better. I'll be leaning on RC alot more than you!

So, the big question....when does the saltwater go in?

 

[jarhed]

is that 1.5"? man for a 180 id have at least of those

is WHAT 1.5"? The standpipe is 1.25" but once it hits the bulk head, it's 1.5". Trust me, it drains FAST and HARD.

NexDog, believe me, I've never done ANY of this stuff, including plumbing, until I came to RC. In the past 13 months, I learned enough to enable me to build this.

Saltwater should go in as soon as I get the lights hung and the AC ducted. Hopefully, they will get done this weekend.

 

[Lincutis]

I'm laughing cause I put two 2" drains for a 75 with a reeflow dart pump. Talking about overkill. I didn't want to dial down the pump too much.
I changed my design to run dual 75 gallon tanks and now that second drain will end up being the inlet for a fuge.

 

[Ehydo]

Kewl,

I'll definitely do that. None of them really have rubber feet, but I'll fashion some out of some thick mouse pads or something.

The first baffle in the sump decided to give and one of the last baffles decided to give a little. The first baffle is the one I used only silicone on. Duh!! :hmm6:

The other baffle, which also borders the center fuge area, was glued with weld-on, then siliconed over top. There is a LOT of water flow through that 60 gallon sump! So, I'm going to re-glue both back in and as usual, seal them with silicone. I think the first one came off from the natural bowing of the acrylic tank. Just pulled the silicone right off. The second one that was glued was probably the same thing. That tank is going to bow no matter what I do. I couldnt think of a way to cut the baffles with a bow in them that would meet the expected bow of the tank, so I guess I'll just have to keep my eye on it. :furious:

You should only use Weld-on on the acrlyic. THat will hold just fine. IF you use silicone you will find it blowing around your tank. If you need a thicker weld-on use #16 it will replace the need for silicone.

As for the bowing. IF you add all of your baffles and attach them with weld-on it will make the tank bow less. THe bow then will start from the first baffle.

And the mouse pad will work fine for lowering vibrations. That is what I use.

 

[jarhed]

Thanks Hydo,

I'll go get some #16 because what I have is obviously too thin. I'll reinforce the ones that stayed and reattach the one that is off with it. The sump runs pretty well, but in the first chamber where the overflow drains to, there is plenty of bubbles with just tap water. Salt will have MANY more bubbles and the problem is that is where the skimmer will pickup. I'm thinking about building an acrylic box for the drain to go into, shorter than the first baffle, then it can run over the top of that into the main chamber so the skimmer can pickup.

Thoughts?

 

[bassman57]

is there anyway you could take some pictures of the entire sump so i can see how you have it all plumbed. I am thinking of doing somthing just like this.

 

[jarhed]

Sure, I'll get one tonight when I get home. It'll be easy now because I pulled it to fix the baffles.

 

[jarhed]

Pic of the sump. The valve on the right side is for the skimmer pump pickup, the one on the left is for the return pump pickup. The first baffle on the right is the one that came loose. Going to go pickup some #16 and "git-er-done!!"

 

[jarhed]

BTW, how does one hang

This behemoth:

From here?:

There are no hanging points on the light box itself, it does have an acrylic lens, and the rafters go the same direction as the expose wood you see in the ceiling. The AC duct will be installed on Saturday probably above the flourescent lights you see in the pic.