240gallons
New member
I have found a tone of information talking about iodine dips for zoos...2-3 drops per gallon. What type of iodine? My drugstoee has tincture and providone
iodine tincture vs povidone iodine for dip
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A. Grandis
Active member
It would be great if you could share all the info you've found on iodine dips, please.
You should post the links and other references here.
The providone has around 9% to 12% available iodine.
The Tincture has normally 2 to 7% iodine (elemental), Potassium iodide and sodium iodide, besides alcohol.
The Lugol's solution has twice the amount of iodide in the solution, no alcohol.
I normally use the tincture or the Lugol's.
Lugol's is great!!! You can order online.
If you don't want to order online you can use the tincture from your pharmacy.
8 -10 0z of tank water with 3-5 drops for 3 min. is generally what I recommend.
What would you use the iodine dip for?
Grandis.
You should post the links and other references here.
The providone has around 9% to 12% available iodine.
The Tincture has normally 2 to 7% iodine (elemental), Potassium iodide and sodium iodide, besides alcohol.
The Lugol's solution has twice the amount of iodide in the solution, no alcohol.
I normally use the tincture or the Lugol's.
Lugol's is great!!! You can order online.
If you don't want to order online you can use the tincture from your pharmacy.
8 -10 0z of tank water with 3-5 drops for 3 min. is generally what I recommend.
What would you use the iodine dip for?
Grandis.
240gallons
New member
I purchased a colony of zoanthid that formed the white rotting polyps. Seems the polyps were damaged during shipping and are now dying. Seems the "fungus, bacteria, infection of sorts" is spreading to non physically damaged polyps. There are a thousand threads on the web that recommended this treatment. I could not find info on the difference between tincture and providone.
I purchased a product from CVS. Would you recommend doulbing the dose since it has 1/2 the amount of iodine that Lugols contains?
Active Ingredients: Iodine (2%), Alcohol (47% by volume), Purified Water, and Sodium Iodine (2.4%).
I purchased a product from CVS. Would you recommend doulbing the dose since it has 1/2 the amount of iodine that Lugols contains?
Active Ingredients: Iodine (2%), Alcohol (47% by volume), Purified Water, and Sodium Iodine (2.4%).
Last edited:
A. Grandis
Active member
Nope, you can use as I've recommended.
That will be enough to do the job.
The problem you've got is hard to solve, but not impossible.
Once a day dipping is enough for the zoas.
Stop when symptoms goes away.
Not more than 3 days straight. Let them rest.
Where are you located?
Good luck!
Grandis.
That will be enough to do the job.
The problem you've got is hard to solve, but not impossible.
Once a day dipping is enough for the zoas.
Stop when symptoms goes away.
Not more than 3 days straight. Let them rest.
Where are you located?
Good luck!
Grandis.
A. Grandis
Active member
Also, what type of zoanthids are we talking about?
Pictures please?
Water parameters?
Type od system?
Let us know...
Grandis.
Pictures please?
Water parameters?
Type od system?
Let us know...
Grandis.
240gallons
New member
Ill try to get som pics. I have had this problem with indo and vietnam zoanthids post shipping when dealing with larger colonies. The damaged polyps seem to create a real issue.
It seems that that the are of polyp death leads to a more systemic infection.
I have a few tanks 220 180 20. Have never had issues with zoanthid in the system, just during the QT phase of receiving. I think ill stick to smaller frags when shipping.
It seems that that the are of polyp death leads to a more systemic infection.
I have a few tanks 220 180 20. Have never had issues with zoanthid in the system, just during the QT phase of receiving. I think ill stick to smaller frags when shipping.
240gallons
New member
Water parameters are all within normal limits. Keep alk at 10.
A. Grandis
Active member
Yeah, unfortunately that's kinda normal with new wild colonies.
It doesn't matter if they are bigger or smaller colonies.
When you quarantine you avoid spread the infection to the display system, but that can still happen after a long time, in a mature system, sometimes years after!! Even when you dip/quarantine the new polyps. Just a drop of water could transfer the pathogen, of course. The pathogen doesn't aways manifest itself staying "dormant" in the system if it can find it's way in. Something in the system trigs it to act. Normally it's a damaged on external tissue and/or poor water quality. Other things will help the pathogen, of course. As aways: many variables...
That said, there is almost no way to securely eradicate 100% any type of zoa pathogen from our systems. We just need to be alert. Some of them sometimes won't be introduced by pure luck.
It's easier to eradicate Aiptasia anemones then those type of infection pathogens, when introduced!
Trust me on that!!
I've had systems with colonies totally treated (dips/quarantine) and virtually sterile/healthy and after years, without any new new introduction, they began to show signs of infection and get rotten. So sad!!
There are many types of infections, by the way...
The one you're talking about comes with wild colonies and normally is much more active right after shipping stress for some reason. It covers the polyps with a whitish "web" or film, like a fungus. The polyps smell really, really rotten!!!
So what to do?
Tips:
Dip all new zoas.
Quarantine all new colonies (wild or not!!) for as long as you can.
It doesn't matter the size of the colonies/frags.
Quarantine makes much easier to treat!
Keep all parameters stable and good quality light/appropriate flow.
Maintenance schedule with regular partial water changes and tests to check the system.
And... good luck!
Grandis.
It doesn't matter if they are bigger or smaller colonies.
When you quarantine you avoid spread the infection to the display system, but that can still happen after a long time, in a mature system, sometimes years after!! Even when you dip/quarantine the new polyps. Just a drop of water could transfer the pathogen, of course. The pathogen doesn't aways manifest itself staying "dormant" in the system if it can find it's way in. Something in the system trigs it to act. Normally it's a damaged on external tissue and/or poor water quality. Other things will help the pathogen, of course. As aways: many variables...
That said, there is almost no way to securely eradicate 100% any type of zoa pathogen from our systems. We just need to be alert. Some of them sometimes won't be introduced by pure luck.
It's easier to eradicate Aiptasia anemones then those type of infection pathogens, when introduced!
Trust me on that!!
I've had systems with colonies totally treated (dips/quarantine) and virtually sterile/healthy and after years, without any new new introduction, they began to show signs of infection and get rotten. So sad!!
There are many types of infections, by the way...
The one you're talking about comes with wild colonies and normally is much more active right after shipping stress for some reason. It covers the polyps with a whitish "web" or film, like a fungus. The polyps smell really, really rotten!!!
So what to do?
Tips:
Dip all new zoas.
Quarantine all new colonies (wild or not!!) for as long as you can.
It doesn't matter the size of the colonies/frags.
Quarantine makes much easier to treat!
Keep all parameters stable and good quality light/appropriate flow.
Maintenance schedule with regular partial water changes and tests to check the system.
And... good luck!
Grandis.
