Is a 2x6 enough for the top span on a 120 gal so that it can have no center brace?

HippieSmell

Occupy Reef Central
I don't want a center brace on my stand, so do you think that a 2x6 will be enough for the top span? The tank is 120 gal (48x24x24).
 
Yes, if the 2x6 is supported by 2x4's it should be plenty. Also make sure that the entire bottom of the tank is supported, then the weight will be distributed evenly. Shouldn't be a problem at all!
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6899301#post6899301 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by yourfishman
IMO i would rather use oak 1x6 oak is very hard. a bit less likey to flex.

my 120 has a 3'2" opening with a 1x6 oak for 9 years

Why not steel?
 
steel will flex too much on that span
even sqare tubing best to get 2 1x6 pices and glue them together this will prevent warps and flex
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6899400#post6899400 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Maxius
steel will flex too much on that span
even sqare tubing best to get 2 1x6 pices and glue them together this will prevent warps and flex

How do you know this? There have been many DIY and professional stands for big tanks made from steel. Why should this one be different?
 
man this whole time i have been trying to make sense of everyones posts because i thought the first post said canopy for some reason???? anyway in the case of a STAND the yeah i think a 2x6 should be fine as long as its supported by wood and not fasteners. what type of joint would be used at the corners where the two boards meet? A lap joint would probably work the best IMO.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6898447#post6898447 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by lakersfan0014
Yes, if the 2x6 is supported by 2x4's it should be plenty. Also make sure that the entire bottom of the tank is supported, then the weight will be distributed evenly. Shouldn't be a problem at all!
It's a glass tank (AGA); I thought glass tanks were to only be supported by the sides? Unless you mean to have 2x4's spanning between the 2x6's.
 
Then there are some tanks out there that have no support at all in the middle. They are only supported at the very end of the tank sitting on concrete blocks.
 
SCR thatââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢s true. Ive seen a tank on rod iron stands and wooden stands that weren't touching any where but the ends. But I would not build one like that would you?

I like the 3/4" low density white Styrofoam they sell in 4x8 sheets at HD to make up for those 1/4" irregularities of 2x4 pine wood.
 
I have a 90 that I built with no centerbrace. Holds mine fine

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I used 1x4's and 1x6's because I have a 90 AGA corner overflow and couldn't use 2x4's.
 
I just built a stand for the same size tank. I used 2- 2X4's on edge so I would not have a center brace.

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Here is the finished product.

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I just am starting a stand for a 120 gal tank (60"L x 18"D x 26"H). I want 4 1/2 ft free span to permit using a 75 gal as a sump.

I talked to my Structural Engineer friend and he calculated the 2ea 2x6 would give me 0.02" deflection but almost no safety factor. His recommendation was to use 2 x 10 to get a safety factor of 5. He also recommended 3/4" plywood top to ensure even weight distribution.

I provide this information to provide some reference point. Obviously the shorter tank translates to a shorter span and thus the 2x6 may provide sufficient support. Attaching facing material and bring the outer support inboard also improves the safety factor. As pointed out, oak has better properties than pine.
 
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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6902423#post6902423 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Dubbin1
FYI most people WAY overbuild there stands. A 2x6 will be plenty.

The tank itself will span more than you think. With all that glass on edge it hold together without much support. Not recomended but it can be done.
 
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