Is it possible for new tang to contract severe ich after a few hours?

[bobbravo2]

The tang is not a goner!

personally I'd treat with Cupramine, since I have it and a copper test kit ready. It sounds like you need to pull and treat all your fish. If so, have plenty of saltwater ready. Get an ammonia alert badge, and do 10-50% water changes daily. More if you see ammonia, and test nitrate at least Weekly. If nitrate is greater than 20, do a large WC.

Feed with garlic, and siphon out any uneaten food with the WC.

 

[lynchmob3000]

Running copper is dangerous in a huge lfs setting! Wow, most stores run hypo to keep parasites at bay until they leave the store, but copper wow.
Personally I use tank transfer method now thanks to a local reefer and it works amazing, you can see after the first transfer how much better the fish will be. after 15 days the fish is in great health. And it's the only way to make sure your fish has zero ich.

 

[lynchmob3000]

Petco is having a tank sale right now for 1 dollar per gallon. Go grab a couple and throw him in there

 

[snorvich]

Running copper is dangerous in a huge lfs setting! Wow, most stores run hypo to keep parasites at bay until they leave the store, but copper wow.

Actually many stores run at a SG less than NSW, but I know of none that actually run hypo. And, of course, true hypo (1.008/9) only affects ich (cryptocaryon irritans) and not brook, velvet, or uronema. Many stores run a low level of copper.

 

[snorvich]

Do you have inverts in the tank? (Sorry, didn't look!)

For now, turn your heater up to 80-82, and try and speed the cycle up...

No, that is not correct! That is true for fresh water ich (Ichthyophthirius multifilis), it is not true for saltwater ich (cryptocaryon irritans). Turning up the heat will reduce dissolved oxygen in the water and exacerbate the effect of ich in the gills.

 

[lynchmob3000]

Actually many stores run at a SG less than NSW, but I know of none that actually run hypo. And, of course, true hypo (1.008/9) only affects ich (cryptocaryon irritans) and not brook, velvet, or uronema. Many stores run a low level of copper.

That's what hypo salinity means "Lower than normal salinity." So when I say they run hypo they do, at 1.018.

 

[snorvich]

That's what hypo salinity means "Lower than normal salinity." So when I say they run hypo they do, at 1.018.

1.018 has no effect on parasites what so ever (including ich). Hyposalinity as the term is used in this hobby with regards to parasite eradication refers to 1.008/1.009

 

[lynchmob3000]

If he's still alive he's begging you to start tank transfers. My achellis came in all tore up from the lfs. I battled ich for a month with this guy. That month the tang wouldn't come out while I was present, he would watch food go right by and kinda nip it here and there and hated I mean hated intense lighting.
The first tank transfer he actually quit breaking out with spots by the second day. After the second transfer he was starting to look like a tang again, darting, grabbing food and great in me when I came into the room. I now swear by and do this as part of my qt process. I swear it made him not so scared of me and nets.

Also I used furan 2 during the first transfer to make sure he's getting good vitamins in case he's not eating so well

 

[snorvich]

If he's still alive he's begging you to start tank transfers. My achellis came in all tore up from the lfs. I battled ich for a month with this guy. That month the tang wouldn't come out while I was present, he would watch food go right by and kinda nip it here and there and hated I mean hated intense lighting.
The first tank transfer he actually quit breaking out with spots by the second day. After the second transfer he was starting to look like a tang again, darting, grabbing food and great in me when I came into the room. I now swear by and do this as part of my qt process. I swear it made him not so scared of me and nets.

Also I used furan 2 during the first transfer to make sure he's getting good vitamins in case he's not eating so well

Tank transfer will eradicate ich from the fish. So in 12 days you are good. Adding Prime or other ammonia neutralizer on day 2 of every cycle will eliminate ammonia as an issue. Usually not necessary, but cannot hurt.

 

[lynchmob3000]

That's right I used prime too. I was fortunate enough to have another thriving tank to steal water from every 3 days but was still scared of ammonia spike.

 

[jbvdhp]

Could someone tell me why it's bad for LFS to run low copper in their tanks?

 

[CoralsAddiction]

Could someone tell me why it's bad for LFS to run low copper in their tanks?

Because it does nothing to eradicate ich. It just masks the problem. People think they are buying healthy fish, don't QT and put the fish straight into the tank. A few days later they realize their fish is infected with marine ich.
If stores did not run low levels of copper then the disease would manifest itself quickly and a hobbyist wouldn't be bringing home sick fish because he/she wouldn't buy it.

 

[Mightyfish]

Because it does nothing to eradicate ich. It just masks the problem. People think they are buying healthy fish, don't QT and put the fish straight into the tank. A few days later they realize their fish is infected with marine ich.
If stores did not run low levels of copper then the disease would manifest itself quickly and a hobbyist wouldn't be bringing home sick fish because he/she wouldn't buy it.

Spot on hence i aways ask LFS whether they run copper in their system, and so extremely disappointed when LFS lied to me. Anyway i have started cupramine treatment 2 days ago because i have had success using cupramine before.

 

[Mightyfish]

Is cupramine light sensitive or not?

 

[snorvich]

Is cupramine light sensitive or not?

No. However you cannot run ammonia neutralizers with it. Test twice daily.

 

[snorvich]

Because it does nothing to eradicate ich. It just masks the problem. People think they are buying healthy fish, don't QT and put the fish straight into the tank. A few days later they realize their fish is infected with marine ich.
If stores did not run low levels of copper then the disease would manifest itself quickly and a hobbyist wouldn't be bringing home sick fish because he/she wouldn't buy it.

This. Causes a parasite to show up in the 3-4 week time frame. Lots of people have been burned by this. They thought that keeping a fish for a month at the LFS was in fact a quarantine period. Quite the contrary.

 

[shane reef]

What is TTM and how does it work? Should I do every fish that I buy?

 

[snorvich]

What is TTM and how does it work? Should I do every fish that I buy?

Tank transfer is the 12 day elimination process for eliminating cryptocaryon irritans (ich). It is very easy and is 100% effective. Every new fish should go through tank transfer followed by a minimum of 3 weeks of observation.

 

[CoralsAddiction]

What is TTM and how does it work? Should I do every fish that I buy?

Tank Transfer Method. It rids fish of Marine Ich (cryptocaryon). You can use it as a preventative for new fish and treatment for infected fish. Here's a write up by Snorvich:
Although generally not feasible for large populations, large or complex systems, or weak or debilitated fish, one approach that has been suggested is transfer of affected fish into new, bare bottom tanks every 3 days (Colorni 1987). Tanks are cleaned, disinfected (see Disinfection below), and dried between moves. This approach reduces or prevents tomont development on the substrates, and subsequent reinfection. Depending upon temperature, fish may need to be moved 3"“5 times. For normal aquarium temperature 4 times should be sufficient. This is the option I recommend.

 

[shane reef]

What size tank? 10 gallon good enough