Is it safe to change water oftenly?

No I think you read his reply wrong. He said with small water changes there was liitle chance of limiting coral growth.

The reason your corals didnt look happy after a 4 gallon change was probably due to the fact that your water change water didnt match your tank water closely enough. Sudden changes in pH, temp and salinity are not good.

Thats the only problem with big changes. Everything has got to match real close. Small changes affect these changes much less and was my original point.

If you want to get your trates down then try 1 gal every 3 or 4 days for awhile and see how it goes.
 
If you can consistently make water then you can do big changes. I had a 5 gallon nano sitting next to my large display, and would do 2 50% changes per week, no bother, as the temp, salinity and other parameters were so similar.
 
Yumpin Yimminey Wayne, 50% to timene for en uke siden? :D

Not a problem Wayne. In a small nano the cost of salt is small and even water changes at that level are fine. In fact, they make the need for things like a skimmer unnecessary or at least redundant. With the dilution factor so low in such a small volume big water changes rule. If you think you are starving the coral you can always add a phyto culture product after the water changes.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7734663#post7734663 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Billybeau1
I've never seen any expert recommend that. I'll see if I can find Tom (Waterkeeper) see if he has a comment. He is the Bogus Information Expert. :D

I have actually. I can't remember if it was Anthony Calfo or someone else who was talking about his LPS tank and how he nearly drains the tank every time that he does a water change.
 
As the debate goes on I've seen the difference in my tank with the larger volume water changes.

The benefits for me have been very noticeable and I've seen much better and rapid growth from it.

The only targets I worry about are the salinty and the temperature in my water changes and I've never had a loss due to it, ever.

IMO smaller water changes are eventually going to lead to increased and undesirable levels over a long period of time. For those who have extremely high flow it may not be as bad, for lesser flow tanks I wouldn't chance it.
 
I'm sure my other corals is fine from limiting feeding, just my sun corals eat alot. they mostly eat a cube mysis by themselves every other day.

I am coming to understand what you guys are saying. Small water Stun growth, and all these time, my corals corals have grown very slowly during small water changes. I agree with you guys. What I don't understand is, how do it get stun by changing small water every week?

I have read the Water Changes article from reefkeeping and it said that if I change water every 2 gallon a week, that mean I been changing 8 gallon a month and I only have about 20 something percent of impurity of water. I agree with that.

Okay, this might be a little of topic, but it might resolved my problem changing to my small water percent at a time.

Heres a Scenario, If I was to change 2 gallon every 2 week, i would have about 67% of water inpurty. How much should i feed my fish, corals and Sun coral? BTW in order for the sun corals to feed, I must feed the other corals and fish before feeding the Sun C.

What do i have in the tank? I have a 2x2 frag of Mean Gr. Zoanthids, 2 of small kenya tree, Large of 6 polyp of Frogspawn, large set button polyps, Single purple Bulleye Mush., Large set of GS polyps, one false C, one blue leg herm., one scarlet herm, 3 tiny of 2mmx1 little clam on the rock that came with the Sun coral.

That's a seem alot huh? ...But the tank is still empty because most of it are frags that barely grown, mostly grown about alittle in a month. Just alittle, but barely.
 
I do a 50% change every 2-3 weeks and the difference is very noticeable. I get good growth AND stability in my tank. All my traceable levels keep themselves in check and I think the avialable nutrients are enhanced in that time period.
With smaller water changes I saw little to no changes and there always seemed to be one or sometimes two levels that never subsided.

I make sure my alk/ph, salinity and temp are all equal before it goes into the tank. My tanks ranged from 30 gal, 2- 55 gals, and now my 90 gal. I'm not sure if it would be the same for nanos since the overall water volume is smaller but it may be worth a try?
 
My practice has been zero water changes for all systems for well over a decade. If you set up a tank like a miniature ecosystem you won't have to do anything with the water besides replacing evaporation or elements that are used up like calcium. Harvesting plants in balance with feeding is ideal in my opinion. I've even kept a 20 gal reef as a closed system for over 2 years. Evaporated water condensed on the lid and fell back in. 3 fish, shrimp, crabs, snails, soft corals, anenomes, and great variety of other creatures did not require or recieve any feeding during this time. 1- 65W compact flourescent 12 hours a day was enough to keep all reproducing populations going in a stable fashion to produce enough food for the top predators.
 
:lol: Nano

Galilean doesn't change water. Of course,he is an engineer and that might explain his odd behaviour. :D

He is one of those that runs a tank like a closed loop depending on the natural bio-population to feed his inverts.

My own feeling is that you remove only a tiny fraction of that population during a water change and it does not reduce the natural food supply enough to matter. I've been doing water changes for three decades and have never had a problem from doing them. However, that is just my own opinion and there are always alternatives that may work. Much depends on what you keep and the overall bioload.
 
So far, i tried changig one gallon every two week and my nitrate went blam.... 25ppm. Before it was under 2ppm when i do my 18percent water change weekly. It's crazy that my nitrate went pretty high. I feed my sun coral daily too, and i been feed two cubes daily.
 
You just need more plants. A reef tank will try to correct itself by growing more plants, but they may not be plants you like to see or plants that overgrow your coral. I set up a 24 gallon nanocube for my grandmother about a year ago. It has acropora, montipora, zoanthids, pulsing xenia, mushroom polyps, stylo pistillta, star polyps, a percula clown, a pacific blue tang, a watchman goby, a purple firefish, an axelrod blenny, a blue damsel, a cucumber, several peppermint shrimp, a cleaner shrimp, a dozen blue reef hermits, an emerald crab, lettuce slugs (reproducing), a red linkia star, a globe urchin, brittle stars and comet stars (reproducing), as well as a host of amphipods, isopods, copepods, annelid worms, tube worms, limpets, flatworms and many other liverock hitchhikers. My grandmother likes to feed it heavily at least three times a day and the fish are growing quickly. The filteration is accomplished by the growing of many different plants and some bateria, but primarily by a bunch of caulerpa taxifolia. This plant is used because is looks good and grows quickly. Clever placement and periodic harvesting prevent it from overgrowing the coral. Zero water changes have been done. Lugol solution (iodine) is the only additive, although I imagine the hard corals would grow a lot faster if some calcium were added. If you don’t add the iodine for long enough the pulsing xenias stop pulsing.

So a heavily stocked small tank can work this way even for my grandma, who mostly doesn’t know what she is doing. You just need to set it up correctly in the first place. This is a matter of getting the right number of decomposers and eaters of each type of algae so that it is balanced. Some of it is art and experience, but some is just trail and error on each system. I like to balance things by moving snails from tank to tank as required until a new tank stabilizes. Populations of little things will find equilibrium for you usually in a couple weeks if you include some well established live rock at the beginning. Live rock you buy in the store, I find is usually mostly dead. If you move rock from another established reef tank you will get adult animals instead of just eggs. Also worms are very important. A strong population of bristle worms is healthy component of any reef tank; just try not to touch them. Typically any fish will keep them mostly in hiding during the day because they fear movement. That way they won’t be crawling through a plant you are trying to harvest.

The plants will take care of any nitrate problems within hours. Micro algae can scrub it down to a few parts per billion, much less parts per million. For larger systems I designed and built my own Algal Turf Scrubbers since I couldn’t buy them. Unfortunately they are not for sale anymore due to legal hang-ups on the patent.

Like waterkeeper says, many different techniques can be made to work. I would just add some more plants. What do you have now? What types of algae? Where does it grow? What is eating it?
 
I totally agree with you on that...

I have a lot of worms in my tank, I get those tube worms growing everywhere. I also have about 2-3 zipblock sandw. bags of chaets growing in the back. I prune about a bag every 2 weeks. I think that's what help me the most, I think I do need more clean up crew. I only got one 2 hermit, small brittle star, 3 tiny hiking clam from sun coral, some small tiny snail that hike from something and 4-5 tiny feather duster that are growing.. When you say I need more plant, you meant Macro-algaes right?

Like I said, I have a fug in the back with 3lbs of LR rbbles of the nanocube sump. I have alot of Amp.-pods as well. I think I need more clean up crew? do you think so?

I plan on getting 1 Turbo snail, 1 bumble bee snail, another scarelet herm, small tiny pepermint, scarlete skunk, tiny red/orange starfish, and later on a tiny scallop.
 
Micro-algae can actually absorb excess nitrogen faster than macro-algae because it grows faster. However, macro-algae looks better and micro-algae is harder to control.

Slime algae will grow everywhere very quickly unless large numbers of tiny crustaceans are present to eat it or the nutrient levels are extremely low (parts per billion). This extremely low level is only achievable with an ATS in my experience. Also slime algae (cyanobacteria) production tends to get canceled out in terms of removing nitrogen by tiny crustaceans eating it.

Hair algae is probably the best filter (growth speed and hence nutrient removal rate) if you don't have an ATS to control the location of the slime algae. Hair algae location can be controlled by having many snails, an urchin, tangs, algae eating crabs, etc. and excluding the algae eaters from a small area with physical barriers. This area could be the refugium.

I have an interesting variety of bubble algae that never attaches to the rocks, but instead floats around in a clump like some bizarre alien space-ship. It doesn't grow very quickly but it probably still contributes more to water quality than bacteria.

Macro-algae grows slower than micro, but still very fast. Spaghetti algae is the easiest fast growing macro-algae to control because it doesn't attach to anything. You can keep it in a refugium or let it float around the tank. It will not overgrow corals unless you ignore the tank completely and let it get stuck on a coral like a piece of debris.

Many varieties of caulerpa are available (I have seven.) These are attractive shapes, but they will overgrow most corals if not vigilantly pruned. In large reef tanks (70 gallons +) I have been able to keep caulerpa in check with tangs alone, but in smaller tanks the balance is harder to achieve because you can't get half a tang and the fish tend to grow quickly when they can browse on cauleurpa all day long. Caluerpa also tends to "go to seed" if not trimmed regularly. With regualr trimming or tangs eating it, this does not happen. Just before all your caluerpa disintegrates into microscopic swimming algae, it will take on a variegated or clear appearance. Then you will have green water for a day, and nitrate levels will begin to rise if you don't have other plants picking up the slack. Sometimes only part of the plant disintegrates, but in smaller systems its usually all of it. Keeping multiples varieties on caulerpa insures that all of it won't go to seed at once even if you put off trimming for too long.

Halimeda will also filter the water effectively, but if it not provided with significant calcium additives it will become soft and herbivorous fish will begin to eat it faster than it grows effectively undoing the filtering it did by growing. Halimeda also tends to shade itself out if not kept under an oscillating flow (wave-maker). My halimeda grow 3-4 inches on each branch every month. Halimeda produces an oil which will capture cyanobacteria films on the surface and obstruct the light if there is not an effective overflow to skim the surface.

There are many other plants, but these are typically available for cheap or free depending on where you are.
 
'Micro-algae can actually absorb excess nitrogen faster than macro-algae because it grows faster. However, macro-algae looks better and micro-algae is harder to control' - I've always assumed the opposite as macro algae tends to outcompete the simpler , but more durable cyano. When I owned a foxface it ate all my macro and hair, and cyano ruled. When I sold the (stupid) foxface my macro rebloomed and my cyano abated.
Well that's what seems to work for me, and I don't tihnk I have hardly any microcrustaceans anymore....
 
You are correct that the micro-algae is out competed even though it grows faster. If nothing eats the macro-algae and the micro-algae is eaten as fast or faster than it grows the macro wins! :D

It is likely that any reef tank established more than a month or so has a great number of isopods if nothing else. However, if you have fish that eat them the numbers of crustaceans such as amphipods, isopods, copepods, gammarus shrimp and the like will be less. In particular the larger varieties (3mm - 1 cm) will become rare. However, even a tank heavily stocked with predators will maintain a significant population of crustaceans (less than 3mm) unless you have just a glass box. There are many hiding places. A night these animals will emerge in great numbers. During the day you can see them amongst the gravel near the glass, but many are very small (maybe .2 - .5 mm). If you have sand instead of courser gravel and shells they may only be able to hide in the live rock. Unless you have a trigger, drum, sweetlips, goatfish, or something else that might eat them there will be a lot of worms in the gravel as well.

On the other hand I've often found people with barren tanks due to siphoning the gravel, or the use of copper or some other anti-parasite medication. Some people like to try to exclude everything but the animals they purposely buy, but the more complete your compliment of flora and fauna is the less work you have to do and the more stable the system.

Micro-algae will grow much faster than macro, anyone who has seen a bad micro-algae bloom knows that it can cover the entire tank in less than a day if the nutrients are available. The tiny crustaceans are what keep this in check in all but the most nutrient poor (efficiently scrubbed) systems.

Algae is also easily limited by light. If you want to get rid of any single-cell algae the easiest way is to simply ensure that the tank is in total darkness for a few days. This temporary loss of light will not harm the coral, and even the slime-algae will probably live for days without light. But the tiny crustaceans who normally can't keep up with the rapid growth of algae will now be able to eat all of it since it can't grow without the light. If you try this in freshwater tanks you have to block out all light for well over a week to actually kill the algae since there is nothing to eat it (no one includes the insects that fulfill this role in freshwater).
 
"Also slime algae (cyanobacteria) production tends to get canceled out in terms of removing nitrogen by tiny crustaceans eating it."

I've yet to EVER see any large or tiny crustaceans that will eat cyanobacteria. This includes Urchins which are excellent at controlling almost all types of algae.
 
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