Is my Sebae Anenome Dying?
- Thread starter JohnDavis
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WatDatThing
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It would be easier to see with no blue light
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humphreyhh
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Looks like a very unhappy anemone. If it's been two days then something is off because (from my experience) my anemones attached themselves fairly fast after I introduced them into my tank, either rock or sand anemones.
Tell us more about your settings? Light, tank age, animals, and water presenters would help.
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Tell us more about your settings? Light, tank age, animals, and water presenters would help.
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I have a 65 Gallon tank that's about 4 months old. In the tank are 2 Clowns, 2 Cleaner Wrasse, 1 Diamond Goby, 4 Shrimp, snails and hermit crabs. I added the sebae anemone on Thursday.
Nitrate, Nitrite, and Ammonia all 0; PH 8.2, Calcium 400, Salinity 1.025. The only thing that seems low is Magnesium at about 300.
Any thoughts on how to save this anemone? Thanks for any help!
Nitrate, Nitrite, and Ammonia all 0; PH 8.2, Calcium 400, Salinity 1.025. The only thing that seems low is Magnesium at about 300.
Any thoughts on how to save this anemone? Thanks for any help!
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humphreyhh
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If it's healthy you can put it near rocks to help it get attached. Or dig a hole on the sandbed to let its foot touch the glass of the tank. It needs hard substance to attach. It can't just attach to the surface of the sandbed.
If it's not healthy all you can do might be the cipro treatment but I never done it before.
From the picture I think it doesn't look unhealthy. The foot might have been slightly torn. In that case it will be hard to take care of it. I hope it will get better.
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If it's not healthy all you can do might be the cipro treatment but I never done it before.
From the picture I think it doesn't look unhealthy. The foot might have been slightly torn. In that case it will be hard to take care of it. I hope it will get better.
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davocean
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Big difference in pics, so now I can see you have a very bleached nem, and it is an H.crispa.
If it has not set it's foot yet, in sand snug up closer to rocks would be better placement.
It will want a lot of light once it regains health and color, but it may not tolerate as strong in it's present condition.
Best way to regain health and color would be squirt mysis towards it a couple times a week, it should begin to turn more of a beige color w/ possible hints of color highlights.
Your tank is on the newer side, we usually advise 6mo min for stability, but you may get lucky.
If your lighting is really strong you may want to shade over the nems area for a while till you see color coming back in.
If it has not set it's foot yet, in sand snug up closer to rocks would be better placement.
It will want a lot of light once it regains health and color, but it may not tolerate as strong in it's present condition.
Best way to regain health and color would be squirt mysis towards it a couple times a week, it should begin to turn more of a beige color w/ possible hints of color highlights.
Your tank is on the newer side, we usually advise 6mo min for stability, but you may get lucky.
If your lighting is really strong you may want to shade over the nems area for a while till you see color coming back in.
Thanks for the advice! I moved it closer to the rocks and it really started looking better. But it seems to keep falling over and hasn't attached to the rocks. Should I leave it alone or keep moving it back to the rocks?
I've also been feeding it mysis every other day. Would low magnesium in my tank cause problems? Do you have a recommended supplement to increase the level. I can't get it over 300-400 in my tank. Thanks.
I've also been feeding it mysis every other day. Would low magnesium in my tank cause problems? Do you have a recommended supplement to increase the level. I can't get it over 300-400 in my tank. Thanks.
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humphreyhh
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Looked a little better than before. But I would not suggest to feed anemone when it's not completely settled. As for why its still not attached I really can't help much. I hope its foot is not torn. Did you check it?
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humphreyhh
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It should look round and smooth. If there is flesh hanging or scars showing then It's torn.
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humphreyhh
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Shrimp and anemone (especially weaker ones such as btas, lta and crispa) can be troublesome together. My cleaner shrimp would harass my anemone badly if he is not fed first. I personally have no experience with fire shrimp. Though I would suggest separation until the anemone fully settles (but not definitely necessary. It depends on the seriousness of your situation). When it gets bigger and stronger it should be able to fend itself off from most of other animals.
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top shelf
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What you are experiencing is exactly why I didnt go with any shrimp this time. I knew I wanted lps and a anemone and shrimp have a bad habit of stealing food right out of their mouths. I had a cleaner shrimp in the last and while he was very cool and friendly he would dig right into any lps or the anemone that had food.
As suggested if your going to feed try feeding the shrimp first to keep it occupied.
Update: 2 months later and my Sebae Anemone seems to have found it's spot and is looking really good.
I now have a couple of questions about getting a clownfish to host the anemone.
1) Is there certain types of clownfish that are more likely to host a Sebae Anemone?
2) Can I mix clownfish types (i.e. 1 Ocellaris and 1 True Percula)?
I now have a couple of questions about getting a clownfish to host the anemone.
1) Is there certain types of clownfish that are more likely to host a Sebae Anemone?
2) Can I mix clownfish types (i.e. 1 Ocellaris and 1 True Percula)?
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Your crispa is looking pretty good. It might darken up a bit with more time. The list tonysi gave is good. However, Fautin and Allen (authors of the field guide on anemone fish and their hosts) added percula to the list, when in fact, it's very possibly a mistake that percs are hosted by crispa--I've never seen a wild pic of a perc in a crispa.
