Is not having RODI water causing this issue

the ones that have been doing well in my 20gal are still growing and happy exept for one that died and all the others ive added into my new 65gal seemed to have trouble with????
no matter if it is from a local reefer or a LFS
 
But how long had they been in the 65? You mean they went bad right away? If so, I still would not ignore transit and acclimation problems even when some work out and some do not.
 
ive had the 65 for about 4 and a half months and no they would be doing great for a week or two them they would start top close up and never open up agein. i would usually acclimate them for about 15-20 minutes plus a 5min dip then a 5min rinse
 
i use tap and i condition it. i have 15 diff types of corals that are thriving. But my everyones tap is different
 
well i wish mine was like yours haha i just dint know why my most hardy corals in there are doing badly and my more delicate corals such as my SPS are doing fine
 
It sounds like a few different issues going on. The fact that you register any ammonia on your test kit is a bad thing. It could be coming from various sources (dying crustaceans and corals, cyanobacteria, chang in feeding routine, cycling, etc.), Ammonia and the Reef Aquarium. The Amquel could also be causing a false ammonia reading. What ammonia test are you using?

Make sure your flow is great enough to suspend detritus, so it can be removed by you skimmer, corals, and any other mechanical filtration. Rinse out any mechanical filtration media every few days. Get your skimmer is adjusted to produce a good 'medium' skimmate.
BIday6_48hr_skimmate2.JPG

Image property of Lunchbucket.
Look into carbon dosing with something like vinegar or vodka to increase bacterial efficiency, Vodka Dosing...Distilled!. Get a RO/DI unit, tap water sources are often unsuitable for reef use, Reverse Osmosis/Deionization Systems to Purify Tap Water for Reef Aquaria.

I would also recommend getting some good quality carbon to remove any toxic compounds being released by the dying corals. These compounds may help explain why your frogspawn is reacting so poorly. Euphyllia species are very aggressive and thus can become easily stressed by an abundance of allelopathic chemicals(can't find the article, sorry). With so much energy going into defense, they slowly starve and whither away.

A special thanks to Randy for writing a couple of the referenced articles, among many, many others. Thanks Randy, where would this reef hobby be without you! :)
 
im using a API test kit, and i clean my protein skimmer and filter pads and everything else that has to do with filtration once a week, i have 2 1050gph powerheads for flow (one on each side) and wht carbon would u reccomend me getting currently i use the Dr. Foster and Smith premium carbon for my tank along with seachem SEAGEL that helps with phosphates and also have some carbon mixed in. also which RODI unit would u reccomend me saving for.
 
API's ammonia test is a salicylate reagent based test so the Amquel is not the culprit. You do have an ammonia spike. Your flow is ok. You should look into the maxi-jet mods to increase, as well as spread the flow out. Eventually, your going to want some different pumps for circulation. Even with the best pumps, with the best controllers, aquarium will have dead spots(areas where detritus accumulates). Turkey basters are great for getting this up into the water column to be filtered out. Do this 30-60 minutes before cleaning your filters.

I couldn't find out for sure, but Foster's premium carbon is likely a bituminous carbon. Lignite carbons are typically a little better. A great source for carbon is bulkreefsupply(BRS). They sell both varieties as well as one called ROX. I would not recommend the ROX carbon at this time for you. It's so strong, used improperly, it will cause even more problems. Even many 'experts' have problems using it. A reactor is the best way to use carbon, although a bag will work(takes twice as much).

I've never used Seagel or any aluminum-based phosphate remover, but there are many cautionary tales out there about it. Most people use GFO. BRS sells this too, in two varieties, normal and high-capacity(HC). I would recommend the normal for you at this point. The HC is very strong, and like the ROX, used incorrectly will cause more problems. Again, a reactor is best. All that said, be careful using a phosphate remover without a decent/good phosphate test/meter. You can easily starve your corals. A word of caution, generally it recommended to use half of the about of GFO that BRS recommends. If you go that route, just ask, we'll help you out.

In general, most general aquarium-use RO/DI filters are pretty much the same. There are some out there with cool features, but a standard model is all you should need. Once again, BRS is a great source. I use their 5-stage plus at home. It has the backflush setup on it, great for preserving the RO membrane. The standard 4 or 5 stage RO/DI would work fine though.

Some good carbon and the RO/DI unit will help you the most, so start out there.

BTW, I have no affiliation with BRS, other than I personally use their products and sell/recommend them at my store. They have great customer service, quality products, and good pricing. Many local reef stores will carry their products or you can buy them online. They also have great videos online showing how to best use their products.
 
ok awsome so GFO and carbon reactor, 4 stage RODI unit from BRS, and saving up for some MP10's CHECK i better start fragging so i can sell some coral to get this stuff haha


thanks for all the help hopfully all my zoas can recover


oh and also im 15 so saving up for a lot of this stuff might take some time haha so wht do u suggest i do until i have the money for a RODI unit
 
The RO/DI is definitely the most important. You'll need a tds meter(HM Digital TDS3 is a good one, ~$25) too though. There are a couple options until you get your own filter. Buying RO/DI from your LFS is probably the most popular option. Prices vary, but it should be very fairly cheap. Bring your own sealable container. You can also buy distilled bottled water in gallon jugs. Make sure its distilled. Depending on what you LFS charges for RO/DI, this could be a cheaper option. The tds meter is good to have in these situations too.

The GFO and carbon plus reactors aren't necessities, they just help us be lazier :). Many beautiful tanks out there don't run them. Water changes and good biodiversity are more valuable in the long run than even the most expensive filtration setups. Once you have access to RO/DI water, the vast majority of problems can be solved simply via water changes.

If you do save up for a MP10, I'd really recommend saving a little more and just getting the 40. It can always be turned down, useful as flow requirements increase as corals get bigger and block more flow, if/when you upgrade to a larger tank and need more flow, and should you need to shut it down for college, it's easier to sell and doesn't lose as much value in used condition. Of course, the 10 might be a better for that nano you setup in your dorm room?
 
hahahaha ok now its going to be hard to choose which one to get haha and also i just called my LFS and they dont sell RO/DI water they only sell the units. The nearest LFS that sells RODI water is 30miles away!!!!! wht should i do now ahhhh
 
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