heathlindner25
New member
I didn't see any of that after any of the tanks I've cycled.
is this frogspawn?
- Thread starter lotta
- Start date
I didn't see any of that after any of the tanks I've cycled.
SeaCucumberFan
New member
Maybe there were larvae in the water or rock or sand or whatever.
SeaCucumberFan
New member
Yes we all agreed on torch
Last edited:
billdogg
Well-known member
A couple things from your pictures.
You need some more rock in there. Both to help the look, and more importantly, to provide more biological filtration. The denitrifying bacteria will inhabit the rocks and provide much needed filtering of fish waste.
You r tank appears to be wildly out of level. Even though it is a small tank (5.7 US gallons) being unlevel creates a large amount of stress on the seams and greatly increases the possibility of it failing. I would shim under whatever it is sitting on to bring it closer to level. DO NOT shim under the tank itself.
I see your fish. A Damsel and either a Royal Gramma or a pseudochromis. Regardless, it is already way overstocked. If it's a RG, the damsel will kill it quickly enough. If it's a pseudochromis, there will be war. Neither of those fish are known for their pleasant personality which will be amplified by the lack of sufficient living space.
A tank that size would be much better suited to a small goby/shrimp pair or perhaps a few nano type fish.
If you want to keep corals (and I'm still not sure that your lighting is up to the task), I would suggest a couple soft corals and/or a few zoanthid colonies.
There is a Nano Tank forum that may be better able to help with suggestions for stocking.
Regardless of the source water, YOU need to take responsibility for checking not only the specific gravity but all other parameters. At just a month old, with minimal rock (that started out dry) you are just part way through the cycling process and really shouldn't have any livestock in there at all. Please invest in a decent test kit (Red Sea Master kit will work) and figure out where the tank actually is in the cycle.
You need some more rock in there. Both to help the look, and more importantly, to provide more biological filtration. The denitrifying bacteria will inhabit the rocks and provide much needed filtering of fish waste.
You r tank appears to be wildly out of level. Even though it is a small tank (5.7 US gallons) being unlevel creates a large amount of stress on the seams and greatly increases the possibility of it failing. I would shim under whatever it is sitting on to bring it closer to level. DO NOT shim under the tank itself.
I see your fish. A Damsel and either a Royal Gramma or a pseudochromis. Regardless, it is already way overstocked. If it's a RG, the damsel will kill it quickly enough. If it's a pseudochromis, there will be war. Neither of those fish are known for their pleasant personality which will be amplified by the lack of sufficient living space.
A tank that size would be much better suited to a small goby/shrimp pair or perhaps a few nano type fish.
If you want to keep corals (and I'm still not sure that your lighting is up to the task), I would suggest a couple soft corals and/or a few zoanthid colonies.
There is a Nano Tank forum that may be better able to help with suggestions for stocking.
Regardless of the source water, YOU need to take responsibility for checking not only the specific gravity but all other parameters. At just a month old, with minimal rock (that started out dry) you are just part way through the cycling process and really shouldn't have any livestock in there at all. Please invest in a decent test kit (Red Sea Master kit will work) and figure out where the tank actually is in the cycle.
Wel I'll try to put more dead rock later.. I thought less rock makes the tank look clean and not messed up.. I'm wrong then.. :C
As you said there will be war so true >.< I don't even know that fish is the damsel family..
What's the name of the coral on the left? Looks like mushrooms..
It's turning into small size when I turned off the light.. hufttt >.< it was fine
Also how long should I turn on the light :c I was reading some threads about lighting time, but I'm still confused..
Last edited:
SeaCucumberFan
New member
Dude we told you the coral on the left is torch coral
NS Mike D
New member
these are the water parameters you should be targeting for a torch coral
Water Conditions: 72-78° F, dKH 8-12, pH 8.1-8.4, sg 1.023-1.025
also keeping Nitrates and Phosphates low will contribute to healthy corals, soft corals can withstand (and even throve) in higher levels whereas SPS corals will not. The torch is a LPS is it's in between.
The torch prefers moderate lighting and moderate flow. Can't help your you lights as I could not find information on them. Lights designed for reef tanks will usually provide information regarding the spectrum and intensity if the light.
PAR is a great way to tell how much light is making it to various parts of your tank, but PAR meters are very expensive and so many hobbyist rely on manufacturer recommendations and/or mimic what works for other reefers.
Light is not just what you see- we are humans and our eyes capture just a fraction of the light spectrum. So it's key to pay attention to what your corals are telling you. Without knowing the details of your water chemistry, it's impossible to know what affect your lights are having, good or bad. Generally speaking, bleaching is a sign of too much light.
Get a handle on your water chemistry asap, so you can do regular water changes to keep stability. Make sure you LEDs were designed for reef tanks (specifically intended for keeping corals, since marine and saltwater lights aren't necessarily meant for corals). If nor, consider lights that are designed for nano tanks - the nano forum can help you.
(as for your comment about live rock and clean - clean isn't limited to what you see - live rock will provide a home for bacteria that will help filter out the toxins from fish waste and dead organic matter - read and become and expert on this)
Water Conditions: 72-78° F, dKH 8-12, pH 8.1-8.4, sg 1.023-1.025
also keeping Nitrates and Phosphates low will contribute to healthy corals, soft corals can withstand (and even throve) in higher levels whereas SPS corals will not. The torch is a LPS is it's in between.
The torch prefers moderate lighting and moderate flow. Can't help your you lights as I could not find information on them. Lights designed for reef tanks will usually provide information regarding the spectrum and intensity if the light.
PAR is a great way to tell how much light is making it to various parts of your tank, but PAR meters are very expensive and so many hobbyist rely on manufacturer recommendations and/or mimic what works for other reefers.
Light is not just what you see- we are humans and our eyes capture just a fraction of the light spectrum. So it's key to pay attention to what your corals are telling you. Without knowing the details of your water chemistry, it's impossible to know what affect your lights are having, good or bad. Generally speaking, bleaching is a sign of too much light.
Get a handle on your water chemistry asap, so you can do regular water changes to keep stability. Make sure you LEDs were designed for reef tanks (specifically intended for keeping corals, since marine and saltwater lights aren't necessarily meant for corals). If nor, consider lights that are designed for nano tanks - the nano forum can help you.
(as for your comment about live rock and clean - clean isn't limited to what you see - live rock will provide a home for bacteria that will help filter out the toxins from fish waste and dead organic matter - read and become and expert on this)
My mistake.. I mean on the right one.. Looks like mushrooms..
You've got bigger issues than identifying coral
Yup I know, is not easy to me to fix all issues on my tank, especially I'm a newbie.. I read all suggestions of you who wants to help me not just talking so simple.. I really appreciate.. And I understand.. perhaps I'll fixing it as soon as possible.. But identifying coral is matter too I'm a curious person.. someday when my tank is normal (my hope) i can choose coral that fits in the tank. Not just like "buying something but don't know about name, how to carry them etc.." Which is happened to me now. I bought coral on the right because it seems like a live rock with some mushrooms coral, so I think it might be more helpful for the tank that still cycling.. Even mature tank still cycling? I read that somewhere.. Cmiiw
Thank you, I just modified the LED today.. A bit bright than before..
Now my torch is a bit good too.. I know it's far from perfect..Hopefully I can fix all issues in my tank
I'm still confused about how long should I turn on the light :c I was reading some threads about lighting time, but still confused me..
Fish Everywhere
New member
Thank you, I just modified the LED today.. A bit bright than before..
Now my torch is a bit good too.. I know it's far from perfect..Hopefully I can fix all issues in my tank
I'm still confused about how long should I turn on the light :c I was reading some threads about lighting time, but still confused me..
You should leave it on for about 8-10 hours. The previous poster was talking about leveling the tank, not lighting. Did you level the tank?
Since you are living in Indonesia, the water is probably from the sea, although you will need to change water (20%) every week for at least a month.
Are there any test kits you can buy? We need you to buy an Ammonia, pH, and Alkalinity test kit. Though others would be helpful, they are not needed at the moment too urgently.
On a side note: Let this be a lesson. I understand you are new to keeping reef aquariums, but you really should have done at least a little research beforehand... anyhow, I digress... good luck...
Last edited:
heathlindner25
New member
8 hours a day, your torch looks much happier . You also need more rock, it's your main filter
level the tank? Mean?
SeaCucumberFan
New member
Hey another indonesian member! And yes, you need more rock
