I've got the 45g, need your help, input, advice!
- Thread starter DebsSisterFlo
- Start date
scooters reef
New member
Jessica, checkvalves work. Some of us are just paranoid 
I have both. However, by far the majority of my circulation is the closed loop and all through bulkheads. Also, while I do it from paranoia and reading of checkvalves sticking, the one I have now is clear PVC and easy to check, remove, clean, replace.
Knowing Jason, he has some fancy way to overcome even any paranoia though.
I have both. However, by far the majority of my circulation is the closed loop and all through bulkheads. Also, while I do it from paranoia and reading of checkvalves sticking, the one I have now is clear PVC and easy to check, remove, clean, replace.Knowing Jason, he has some fancy way to overcome even any paranoia though.
scooters reef
New member
LOL @ Jon.
Benelli, as in plastic surgery?
Benelli, as in plastic surgery?
scooters reef
New member
LOL, oh, even better
Haven't done that to a tank, but even a milk jug is impressive. I can't afford a Benelli though
My Browning must carry the load!
Haven't done that to a tank, but even a milk jug is impressive. I can't afford a Benelli though
My Browning must carry the load!
RCS
In Memoriam
There are lots of options for breakinf siphon. Check valves would be fine. I'd tend to be a bit more paranoid as well, but it's easy to add a safety with the addition of a small drilled hole on the underside of a return pipe as close to the surface of the water as it can be. Once the water gets below that level, it starts sucking in air. All-Glass does this on their Reef-Ready tanks, with a small hole drilled in the underside of the elbow at the top of the return line. As long as there's not enough water up to that point to overflow the sump, you shouldn't have a problem.
yaitisme
In Memoriam
Jason
how does your return design overcome the inevitable power outage - drain down - onto the floor disaster that is keeping Jessica up a night chatting on the other board? Are you relying only on checkvalves that can fail/leak, or is there more.
The PVC over the overflow (as Jessica quoted from that other board) method works, but shows two small white pipes (black if you can find the ABS piping) on the rear water surface. The pipe over the back of the tank can easily be hidden by an aquarium hood light enclosure. The pipes can also be easily move/adjusted at a later date. Just my two cents.
Lastly, are you still considering two side-by-side holes within the overflow? If used, would the area need to be reinforced with a second layer of glass?
BTW, great thread... very though provoking
how does your return design overcome the inevitable power outage - drain down - onto the floor disaster that is keeping Jessica up a night chatting on the other board? Are you relying only on checkvalves that can fail/leak, or is there more.
The PVC over the overflow (as Jessica quoted from that other board) method works, but shows two small white pipes (black if you can find the ABS piping) on the rear water surface. The pipe over the back of the tank can easily be hidden by an aquarium hood light enclosure. The pipes can also be easily move/adjusted at a later date. Just my two cents.
Lastly, are you still considering two side-by-side holes within the overflow? If used, would the area need to be reinforced with a second layer of glass?
BTW, great thread... very though provoking
I just used 2 bulkheads thru the side fof the tank. I'm mot entirely sure how you would neatly and cleanly "screw in a fitting" into a bilkhead, hard pipe it to where you need it, and in the rare event you needed to remove it, it would need to be cut, allowing that $@#$ into you tank/overflow to circulate...
Like I started to type, I placed my bulkheads up high enough that I also used a siphon break, and then there is the check valve... you could run a double check valve, if it really worried you, but I can show you that when you stop this weekend. The cheapest place to find a valve is at the hardware store by the sump pumps... but you want the ones with flapper, not the spring loaded ones, these slow the water down to much.
I've seen the ALL GLASS style returns, the ones that the returns reach out of the overflow box like a octopus... those are nice, but the return box needs to be large enough to sevice them inside the box...
Like I started to type, I placed my bulkheads up high enough that I also used a siphon break, and then there is the check valve... you could run a double check valve, if it really worried you, but I can show you that when you stop this weekend. The cheapest place to find a valve is at the hardware store by the sump pumps... but you want the ones with flapper, not the spring loaded ones, these slow the water down to much.
I've seen the ALL GLASS style returns, the ones that the returns reach out of the overflow box like a octopus... those are nice, but the return box needs to be large enough to sevice them inside the box...
I have a durso stand pipe in my current overflow. I believe ther is a small hole on the return to break siphon and I have numerous power outages (we are to the point of looking at those handy generators that hook into our LP tank. I have never had a problem with the tank siphoning back to the basement.
With Jessica having only a 45 gallon tank she would have to have her returns down quite low to drain enough water to overflow her sump. Just make sure you have a sump that is large enough to handle the overflow.
Jessica remember our conversation last month about a hole in the floor to the basement. Drill the hole grasshopper and put in a large sump (it will help keep your water chemistry more stable anyway. Pull the carpet and drill the hole, then rplace carpet over hole and have at it with a utility knife. This was the best move I ever made with my reefs. No more trying to wedge MY considerable bulk under one of those little wooden stands, While you may fit under the stand MUCH better than I do you have to admit its not very comfortable. Much easier to do water changes, add additives (Is that redundant?) or just play with the plumbing so to speak. Drill away on the tank and the floor!!!!!!
jandlms
With Jessica having only a 45 gallon tank she would have to have her returns down quite low to drain enough water to overflow her sump. Just make sure you have a sump that is large enough to handle the overflow.
Jessica remember our conversation last month about a hole in the floor to the basement. Drill the hole grasshopper and put in a large sump (it will help keep your water chemistry more stable anyway. Pull the carpet and drill the hole, then rplace carpet over hole and have at it with a utility knife. This was the best move I ever made with my reefs. No more trying to wedge MY considerable bulk under one of those little wooden stands, While you may fit under the stand MUCH better than I do you have to admit its not very comfortable. Much easier to do water changes, add additives (Is that redundant?) or just play with the plumbing so to speak. Drill away on the tank and the floor!!!!!!
jandlms
scooters reef
New member
"Like I started to type, I placed my bulkheads up high enough that I also used a siphon break"
See, there's the answer! Knew he had one!!!! Where did you put the break though?
But, like I said above, the check valve is enough for most, I'm just paranoid And I can see through my valve and easily remove it to clean if it looks bad, like right now
See, there's the answer! Knew he had one!!!! Where did you put the break though?
But, like I said above, the check valve is enough for most, I'm just paranoid
And I can see through my valve and easily remove it to clean if it looks bad, like right now scooters reef
New member
Jon has a good point. I never even asked how big a sump you have. If big enough, you wouldn't even need to worry about a check valve if it can handle what siphons back.
But, I'm still paranoid. Then I'd worry about the main tank level dropping and exposing something above water I don't want exposed!!!!!
Fix that, and I'll find something else to worry about, so don't worry just because I do. Just tossing out ideas, as well as looking for more ideas for the future myself
But, I'm still paranoid. Then I'd worry about the main tank level dropping and exposing something above water I don't want exposed!!!!!
Fix that, and I'll find something else to worry about, so don't worry just because I do. Just tossing out ideas, as well as looking for more ideas for the future myself
DebsSisterFlo
New member
hey scooter, keep tossing those ideas, that's the whole reason that I started this thread!
I have a 20g for a sump, the skimmer I'm assuming will be put inside of the sump (it's a coralife super skimmer and can be used in or out of the sump).
no drilling holes in the floor, hubby doesn't want it as we want to sell this place in a few years. The 20g will fit in my stand, and then I won't need such a huge pump to push water back up to the tank... ah yes, the elusive pump, but that's another thread.
So by your comment in your last post I assume sunday will be ok, Jason?
I have a 20g for a sump, the skimmer I'm assuming will be put inside of the sump (it's a coralife super skimmer and can be used in or out of the sump).
no drilling holes in the floor, hubby doesn't want it as we want to sell this place in a few years. The 20g will fit in my stand, and then I won't need such a huge pump to push water back up to the tank... ah yes, the elusive pump, but that's another thread.
So by your comment in your last post I assume sunday will be ok, Jason?
scooters reef
New member
That's still half the size of your display. Unless you get a huge return pump and need more volume in the sump due to the flow, I bet it could handle it, and Jason can help you figure out baffle heights to match.
Have sold two house with holes drilled in the floor. Just keep the circle of wood that comes out of the hole, (I silicone mine to the underside of the floor next to the hole. When I take down the tank I put a glop of slicone on the wood and push the wood backl into the hole. This "whole" operation takes about 30 seconds on a bad day. As for the carpet, all you do is cut a slice in the carpet and put a dab of hot glue under it to keep it flat when your finished (again about 30 seconds).
This whole procedure looks better than the stains from spilled additives, salt creep and fading that occur under the sump which is under your tank. Trust me have I ever lied to you?
This whole procedure looks better than the stains from spilled additives, salt creep and fading that occur under the sump which is under your tank. Trust me have I ever lied to you?
scooters reef
New member
I agree with Jon there. You'd keep the whole mess in the basement. Also, if you have easy access from the basement side, when the hole is ever replaced you could back it with 1/4" plywood stapled up.
And the tank would be MUCH quieter But, you would need a bigger pump and other issues, so is a personal preference.
OH, since I'm paranoid, having your sump in the basement sounds good!!! Better to flood concrete than a living room
And the tank would be MUCH quieter
But, you would need a bigger pump and other issues, so is a personal preference.OH, since I'm paranoid, having your sump in the basement sounds good!!! Better to flood concrete than a living room
DebsSisterFlo
New member
in my defense, the stand has a solid bottom due to being custom built (a pressie from an uncle).
anyways, back on topic please... so what is the popular opinion here on the return? Drill a hole behind/inside of the overflow and have it go over the top of the overflow? Or drill two return holes on either side and have the returns that way, with those black bubbly snakey things so that I can direct the waterflow? Which one is better?
anyways, back on topic please... so what is the popular opinion here on the return? Drill a hole behind/inside of the overflow and have it go over the top of the overflow? Or drill two return holes on either side and have the returns that way, with those black bubbly snakey things so that I can direct the waterflow? Which one is better?
kiowascout
New member
I third the running it all to the basement. Having done that, I wouldnt do it any other way in the future.
Jason, thanks for naming something in this hobby after me!
Also, Jason, do you have a line on dark glass for overflows? I am near needing something like that for my "wall o tanks".
Jess, sorry to hijack your thread for a second there.
Jason, thanks for naming something in this hobby after me!
Also, Jason, do you have a line on dark glass for overflows? I am near needing something like that for my "wall o tanks".
Jess, sorry to hijack your thread for a second there.
kiowascout
New member
Loc Line (the black snakey stuff) is pretty cool from what I've seen. It really helps you have the flexibility to put the flow where you want it.
I would put all holes inside of the overflow if possible just for asthetics. However, that may not be entirely practical on a smaller tank because of how much real estate you will have to give up to make the overflow big enough to accomodate those bulkheads and associated piping.
So, that being said. I think that I would drill return holes external of the overflow structure itself and use locline to get the water where wanted/needed.
HTH
I would put all holes inside of the overflow if possible just for asthetics. However, that may not be entirely practical on a smaller tank because of how much real estate you will have to give up to make the overflow big enough to accomodate those bulkheads and associated piping.
So, that being said. I think that I would drill return holes external of the overflow structure itself and use locline to get the water where wanted/needed.
HTH
