JapanReef - 450 gallon In-Wall system
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
Thanks ukbice and:
[welcome]
Marc - maybe I should add some fans in there. Just a bit limit on space.
Jonathan - exhaust fan....yep, should be there. I asked them to install one and instead they put this piddly little "air mover" which is now compulsory on all Japanese houses. Basically it's a tiny air cycler that has an inlet and an outlet. Not much use when is 35C outside.
The air con guy is coming over tomorrow to see if we can switch the unit from the office because it's really cold.
[welcome]
Marc - maybe I should add some fans in there. Just a bit limit on space.
Jonathan - exhaust fan....yep, should be there. I asked them to install one and instead they put this piddly little "air mover" which is now compulsory on all Japanese houses. Basically it's a tiny air cycler that has an inlet and an outlet. Not much use when is 35C outside.
The air con guy is coming over tomorrow to see if we can switch the unit from the office because it's really cold.
melev
Well-known member
If you can get some IceCap fans, they will fit most anywhere.
They cost more, but they have a heat sensor and will run at high when the tank is the hottest. I have the sensor hanging near the MH bulb, and when the lights turn off, the fans run on low. So low, I don't even hear them and they can cool my tank too much.
I only use fans occasionally, as my reef stays stable between 79 and 81F daily when I run the window A/C unit throughout the summer.
They cost more, but they have a heat sensor and will run at high when the tank is the hottest. I have the sensor hanging near the MH bulb, and when the lights turn off, the fans run on low. So low, I don't even hear them and they can cool my tank too much.
I only use fans occasionally, as my reef stays stable between 79 and 81F daily when I run the window A/C unit throughout the summer.
jeffbrig
Premium Member
I was a little surprised to hear you say that, since you live in (hot) Texas.
While I agree that fans are very effective at cooling the water, I don't think the actual cost difference is insignificant (aside from the equpiment costs). Any heat and moisture removed from the tank adds heat and humidity to the house. Then the AC has to work harder and run longer to dehumidify and extract that heat.
Obviously, if you live somewhere that's cool and you can simply open a window to exhaust the heat, fans become a no-brainer.
I choose to run a chiller, but it is plumbed outdoors, which limits the additional load placed on the AC. As a side benefit, I can run the chiller on a generator during a power outage, which may be very important living in a hurricane area.
I'm almost tempted to do an experiment to determine the actual running cost of the chiller vs. fans/AC. I could place a timer between the temp controller and chiller to monitor daily usage patterns. Then I could replace the chiller with fans (on the controller), and run that way for a while. My AC thermostat reports daily run time information, so I could compare AC usage using the chiller vs. using the fans. I could then measure the electrical consumption of the AC and the chiller and calculate total running costs of each method.
jnarowe
New member
Each installation has its own quirks. I set mine up so that the tank room is sealed off from the house and has zero affect on house temp. and humidity. The cost difference is significant though. Chillers by nature are innefficient as well as air conditioners and when you compare the power usage of my three fans to a chiller rated to cool this tank, they are simply in a different league. Using a house air conditioner to cool a tank is extremely innefficient but sometimes neccessary for some people at the hottest times of the year.
Flexibility in temp. requirements is also key. I am of the school that on a natural reef temp. rises and falls throughout the 24 hour day period as well as seasonally. My fans come on 1/2 degree under the seasonal "set temp." and only allow the temp. to rise about 1 degree over the course of a hot ambient day. The tank then cools down in the evening to the set temp. and drops slightly at night after the fans turn off. Of course, the amount of water, surface area, thickness of acrylic, etc. all play into temp.
jeffbrig
Premium Member
You have a good point there, but climate plays a huge role. In S. Florida, circulating outside air through the tank room isn't terribly helpful, since we have high temps and high humidity all but 3 days each year. If I sealed a tank room off from the rest of the house, I'd need an algae scraper to get the mold off the walls after a few months.
Temperature here is not so bad. It's rainy season now so very humid and hits 30C (86F) on some days. In a few weeks it will be 90-100 every day until early October. I do have my tank room sealed off but I made it like a bathroom with shiny plastic walls so the condensation can just run down.
Overnight the tank dropped to 26.1C (79F) and it would be nice to have it not rise above 27.5C (81.5F) during the day. That's my goal I think.
A/C guy be here in 3 hours.
Overnight the tank dropped to 26.1C (79F) and it would be nice to have it not rise above 27.5C (81.5F) during the day. That's my goal I think.
A/C guy be here in 3 hours.
I just spoke with our A/C guy and he reckons changing out the unit won't help with exposed heat sources. He is organising a decent exhaust fan to put behind the ballasts and ducting over the canopy fans. With those heat sources eliminated I think the A/C unit will do the job well.
Will also take the opportunity to finish the sliding light rack.
I do have a question though. Ideally I'd like to move the ballasts to the far end of the room (about 1.5m) but the cords won't make it that far. Is there no easy solution or does it involves getting an electrician in?
Will also take the opportunity to finish the sliding light rack.
I do have a question though. Ideally I'd like to move the ballasts to the far end of the room (about 1.5m) but the cords won't make it that far. Is there no easy solution or does it involves getting an electrician in?
jnarowe
New member
Electrician for ballasts? What kind are they? Mine all have much longer cords than that. Between the power cord to the ballast and then the cord from the ballast to lamp I think I have about 12 feet. I would guess that researching the maximum allowable cord length for that manufacturer would help you out.
