JapanReef - 450 gallon In-Wall system
- Thread starter JohnL
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FFrankie
New member
Was it submerged in salt water or fresh? I forget. If it was salt water then I would open it up and check for salt buildup. I have dropped many things in saltwater and found the best way to remedy the salt problem was to rinse it well in fresh water and let dry. With a pump like that I would take it apart and rinse it. Let it all dry very well then put it back together and plug it in. I would use an extension cord and plug it in far from the unit as possible btw 
jnarowe
New member
If a Sequence was submerged in SW for any length of time, and not properly dealt with then, I would doubt it could be fixed now, just due to rust. Even in fresh water that might be the case.
What I do for ANYTHING that has been dropped or submerged in ANY kind of water is a complete rubbing alcohol bath. This is a complete submerge/fill , inspection, and allowing it to dry. This will dissipate salt deposits as well as displace any water that may still exist within the unit. I have done this with cell phones numerous times BTW, including dropping a Star-Tac in the toilet several time (don't ask) and even dropping it in my aquarium.
In the future, immediate action will in many cases save your equipment. I had my Alita 100 filled with SW for hours, and when I discovered that, I filled it with alcohol, swished it around, let it sit for a while, and poured it out. About 15 minutes later, I plugged it back in, and it has been running 24/7 for at least 2 years since.
So Laurence, I am sorry but I forgot, is your tank glass or acrylic?
What I do for ANYTHING that has been dropped or submerged in ANY kind of water is a complete rubbing alcohol bath. This is a complete submerge/fill , inspection, and allowing it to dry. This will dissipate salt deposits as well as displace any water that may still exist within the unit. I have done this with cell phones numerous times BTW, including dropping a Star-Tac in the toilet several time (don't ask) and even dropping it in my aquarium.
In the future, immediate action will in many cases save your equipment. I had my Alita 100 filled with SW for hours, and when I discovered that, I filled it with alcohol, swished it around, let it sit for a while, and poured it out. About 15 minutes later, I plugged it back in, and it has been running 24/7 for at least 2 years since.
So Laurence, I am sorry but I forgot, is your tank glass or acrylic?
It was fresh water. The connector to the RODI exploded one night and I woke up to my daughter saying there was running water in the tank room. Believe me, that is not how you want to wake up. I'm not good in the mornings so imagine me, head full of cotton wool, eyes half open running down the stairs as I plainly hear a sound like someone has ploughed a pickaxe into my tank. 
I opened the door and I was greeted by a small swimming pool. Have to say it is a testament to my good design - building the tank room right on top of the slab so the footers contain any water. But it shouldn't have built up like that, just the drain was blocked with crap. So there I was looking on, not wanting to jump into a foot of water with the Sequence and Hammerhead fully submerged. At that point I did not know where the water was coming from. I shoot a finger into the water and didn't die on the spot so I jumped. Water was spurting out the Sequence so I immediately thought seal leak. Turned off the ball valves and unplugged it. Then I saw water spurting out the Hammerhead. Closed valves turned it off. So if this water is coming out the pumps how much is left ion the tank I though. So I ran into my office to look at the tank. I saw no water line so there was either no water in it or it was full - and then I saw a fish swim out from behind a rock. Okay, so water wasn't coming from the tank. Dived back into the pool. And only then did I realise that there was a sound of gushing water (it was early and I was panicking). So I followed my ear to the tap and saw the line that should have been connnected to the RODI was dangling by the side of the sink shooting water out full pelt.
So the water drained out but the umps never worked again. Not sure how long they were submerged. This was about 6am so could have started any time since about 2am. But the drain was pretty blocked and a tap open wide like that would have filled the room in under an hour I'm sure so I don't think they were submerged long.
Anyhow, I'll take them apart tomorrow and see what can be done. This was over a year ago though (I think).
Well, today I cleaned the Deltec 902 skimmer. Had it in vinegar for 24 hours. Also cleaned the Iwaki return pump in the vinegar. Clean up all done and suprisingly painless I hooked the skimmer back in and turned the Iwaki on. Waited patiently for the water to fill the overflows and trickle down to the skimmer. I knew I'd have to choke the Iwaki back (it was open wide at that point as I hadn't cleaned it - ever). So I'm watching the skimmer fill. And fill. And fill. And fi.....ck. Suddenly I had the Trevi Fountain with water spurting out the skimmer like a geyser. I .... am ... so .....dumb. Scrambling now, I turned off the return wondering what had I done to screw things up this time. Oh yes, I forgot to hook up the return to the sump and the ball valve was of course closed.
And as fate would have it my RODI line split yesterday. Meant to fix it today but didn't get around to it. Had to put in 20g of tap water which is bare minimum really (still needs another 20 but can wait till tomorrow with fixed RODI).
So yep, don't do anything for a year, get stuck in, and it's immediate drama.
But to be honest I enjoyed it. Been meaning to do it for a year. Even bought the vinegar a year ago and it's been sitting there waiting all this time. Having to hook up a little bypass drain was the thing that stopped me doing it but when I thought about it for 2 minutes the solution was simple and took 5 minutes to make out of bits of old discard pipework. So next time I won't dread it and I won't forget the return, heh. So chaps, progress is being made.
As soon as the wife signs off on it I'm going to order some LR from Okinawa and start redoing the rockwork.
Oh yea, please do chip in with some Tunze recommendations.
I opened the door and I was greeted by a small swimming pool. Have to say it is a testament to my good design - building the tank room right on top of the slab so the footers contain any water. But it shouldn't have built up like that, just the drain was blocked with crap. So there I was looking on, not wanting to jump into a foot of water with the Sequence and Hammerhead fully submerged. At that point I did not know where the water was coming from. I shoot a finger into the water and didn't die on the spot so I jumped. Water was spurting out the Sequence so I immediately thought seal leak. Turned off the ball valves and unplugged it. Then I saw water spurting out the Hammerhead. Closed valves turned it off. So if this water is coming out the pumps how much is left ion the tank I though. So I ran into my office to look at the tank. I saw no water line so there was either no water in it or it was full - and then I saw a fish swim out from behind a rock. Okay, so water wasn't coming from the tank. Dived back into the pool. And only then did I realise that there was a sound of gushing water (it was early and I was panicking
). So I followed my ear to the tap and saw the line that should have been connnected to the RODI was dangling by the side of the sink shooting water out full pelt.So the water drained out but the umps never worked again. Not sure how long they were submerged. This was about 6am so could have started any time since about 2am. But the drain was pretty blocked and a tap open wide like that would have filled the room in under an hour I'm sure so I don't think they were submerged long.
Anyhow, I'll take them apart tomorrow and see what can be done. This was over a year ago though (I think).
Well, today I cleaned the Deltec 902 skimmer. Had it in vinegar for 24 hours. Also cleaned the Iwaki return pump in the vinegar. Clean up all done and suprisingly painless I hooked the skimmer back in and turned the Iwaki on. Waited patiently for the water to fill the overflows and trickle down to the skimmer. I knew I'd have to choke the Iwaki back (it was open wide at that point as I hadn't cleaned it - ever). So I'm watching the skimmer fill. And fill. And fill. And fi.....ck. Suddenly I had the Trevi Fountain with water spurting out the skimmer like a geyser. I .... am ... so .....dumb. Scrambling now, I turned off the return wondering what had I done to screw things up this time. Oh yes, I forgot to hook up the return to the sump and the ball valve was of course closed.
And as fate would have it my RODI line split yesterday. Meant to fix it today but didn't get around to it. Had to put in 20g of tap water which is bare minimum really (still needs another 20 but can wait till tomorrow with fixed RODI).
So yep, don't do anything for a year, get stuck in, and it's immediate drama.
But to be honest I enjoyed it. Been meaning to do it for a year. Even bought the vinegar a year ago and it's been sitting there waiting all this time. Having to hook up a little bypass drain was the thing that stopped me doing it but when I thought about it for 2 minutes the solution was simple and took 5 minutes to make out of bits of old discard pipework. So next time I won't dread it and I won't forget the return, heh. So chaps, progress is being made.
As soon as the wife signs off on it I'm going to order some LR from Okinawa and start redoing the rockwork.
Oh yea, please do chip in with some Tunze recommendations.
jnarowe
New member
If the tank is acrylic, you could scab on custom wave boxes with Tunze Streams like Marc suggests. And you can have a slot at the top of each so that during the "night" cycle you can throttle the streams down to slow flow and provide calm, constant closed loop flows from wherever you have a wave box. Then in the AM you can ramp them up and have the wave intervals to rock the reef. Just a thought to get the juices flowing.
And Laurence, one of my better floods was a complete tank room flood (I don't have a floor drain) due to a reactor splitting a seam. The exiting water was landing in a power module causing a fire and breaker shut-downs.
Also, another power module had been temporarily left on the floor after some maintanence, and it too caught on fire and snapped breakers. Remember I have a brain injury so I did not have the fear you did, and walked right into the room, probably 1.5" of water on the floor, smoke billowing out from under the tank, and nearly all power out. The only power left running was the original room power which was running the QT tank and the UPS for the AquaController.
So what did I do? Yup, I walked right over to the panel (5 x 20A breakers) and flipped a couple on. Immediately a puff of smoke from under the tank and then the breakers tripped off.
Long story short, I got the water up, got the electrical re-routed, and everything was up and running soon enough. Zero effect on the tank because of tank & plumbing design, but I did find that one of the return lines had been scorched pretty good and had the fire not put itself out, I would have lost the whole thing.
Moral of the story? Next tank will NOT have any penetrations.
And Laurence, one of my better floods was a complete tank room flood (I don't have a floor drain) due to a reactor splitting a seam. The exiting water was landing in a power module causing a fire and breaker shut-downs.
Also, another power module had been temporarily left on the floor after some maintanence, and it too caught on fire and snapped breakers. Remember I have a brain injury so I did not have the fear you did, and walked right into the room, probably 1.5" of water on the floor, smoke billowing out from under the tank, and nearly all power out. The only power left running was the original room power which was running the QT tank and the UPS for the AquaController.
So what did I do? Yup, I walked right over to the panel (5 x 20A breakers) and flipped a couple on. Immediately a puff of smoke from under the tank and then the breakers tripped off.
Long story short, I got the water up, got the electrical re-routed, and everything was up and running soon enough. Zero effect on the tank because of tank & plumbing design, but I did find that one of the return lines had been scorched pretty good and had the fire not put itself out, I would have lost the whole thing.Moral of the story? Next tank will NOT have any penetrations.
Hoping to get about 60kg of LR in April if the wife lets me p). Hard to gauge how much I'll need at firsr. The tank is 6 ft long, 3 ft deep and 30" tall. I'm rescaping the right side first and plan to build wall/column like structures lining the back and right side leaving a large sandy open area where I'll put the clam. Is 60kg too much? I could get 40kg and spend the same money and get 20kg of it in better quality rock.
So whats with the this new Tunze Turbelle® Stream 2 stuff? Are they like Vortechs with motor outside? I'm a bit wary of that. Looks like the old lines (6100 etc) are now discontinued? What would be best for my tank?
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=Tunze_pumps
Please help me decide. (damn they expensive, that 6305 at $700? Are they mad?)
p). Hard to gauge how much I'll need at firsr. The tank is 6 ft long, 3 ft deep and 30" tall. I'm rescaping the right side first and plan to build wall/column like structures lining the back and right side leaving a large sandy open area where I'll put the clam. Is 60kg too much? I could get 40kg and spend the same money and get 20kg of it in better quality rock.So whats with the this new Tunze Turbelle® Stream 2 stuff? Are they like Vortechs with motor outside? I'm a bit wary of that. Looks like the old lines (6100 etc) are now discontinued? What would be best for my tank?
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=Tunze_pumps
Please help me decide.
(damn they expensive, that 6305 at $700? Are they mad?)
maxxII
Super Housemonkey!
The motor on the Tunze Streams are still inside the tank, however, they now use less wattage while moving more water, and the mounting magnets are now included for mounting as opposed to previously availble as an accessory.
Glad to see you posting again....been wondering if you fell off the earth, or just left the hobby.
Nick
Glad to see you posting again....been wondering if you fell off the earth, or just left the hobby.
Nick
melev
Well-known member
Laurence, how thick is your tank? I know you were unhappy with your original Vortechs, but the ones being sold now are really solid.
Looking at that one pump you mentioned, I'm pretty certain it is in-tank only, with the magnet that holds it to the glass on the outside. For some reason, it lists a different model number at the top of the product informaiton flyer.
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merc...duct_Code=T6305.000&Category_Code=Tunze_pumps
Looking at that one pump you mentioned, I'm pretty certain it is in-tank only, with the magnet that holds it to the glass on the outside. For some reason, it lists a different model number at the top of the product informaiton flyer.
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merc...duct_Code=T6305.000&Category_Code=Tunze_pumps
Bax
Premium Member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14723362#post14723362 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by NexDog
Skimmer performing really well. The difference is startling. Going to see if I can hook up the spare Hammerhead to a CL tomorrow and if I'm feeling really good I mind even get the scraper out.
I'd bet you'll notice lots of improvement in the tank overall with a clean skimmer and the HammerHead pushing that CL. Who knows what could happen if you actually cleaned the glass!
Nick - just got a bit disillusioned but I'm back now. The tank is a major feature of the house and I spent so much money on it that I should really make the effort.
Marc - it's 3/4". So what's different abount the Vortechs now? I could never seem to get mine to line up properly so they rattled, stopped all the time, just fell apart, magnet just stopped working. Whatever could go wrong would go wrong. I've gone through 4 of them. I can't justify spending more $$$ on a product that let me down so spectacularly.
Bax - cleaning glass is the worst job in this hobby.
So about them Tunzes. I'd rather get 4 less powerful ones. I'm thinking one in each back corner kind of low facing its diagonal corner then one on each side.
4 x 6065 ($152.89)
4 x 6085 ($177.14)
At most I could swap out two for the 6125 model.
So will be my intention to remove the CLs completely so the Tunzes need to be able to provide all the flow if I ever decide to keep SPS again.
Marc - it's 3/4". So what's different abount the Vortechs now? I could never seem to get mine to line up properly so they rattled, stopped all the time, just fell apart, magnet just stopped working. Whatever could go wrong would go wrong. I've gone through 4 of them. I can't justify spending more $$$ on a product that let me down so spectacularly.
Bax - cleaning glass is the worst job in this hobby.
So about them Tunzes. I'd rather get 4 less powerful ones. I'm thinking one in each back corner kind of low facing its diagonal corner then one on each side.
4 x 6065 ($152.89)
4 x 6085 ($177.14)
At most I could swap out two for the 6125 model.
So will be my intention to remove the CLs completely so the Tunzes need to be able to provide all the flow if I ever decide to keep SPS again.
It seems to be doing well. Things are actually growing and spreading, but I always feel like I'm one pay check away from a disaster
I have two more upgrade phases planned and then I'll start stocking the tank with more corals again. I want to make 100% sure that the tank is ready before I add anymore. The closed loop under my rocks currently isn't being used. It is part of the phase II upgrade
I'll be putting another panworld there and am debating about a OM super squirt hokked to it, but have not decided yet.Sorry about the vortecs, mine has ran flawlessly since I installed it. I plan on getting a second one for the phase II upgrade.
Glad to have you back:thumbsup:
Cleaned the tank today.
Took a while as it wasn't a swipe across with magnet job
Before:
After:
And some more crappy 7 second video with my phone:
Before: http://japanreef.com/video/march_2009.mpg
After:
http://japanreef.com/video/march-31a-2009.mpg
http://japanreef.com/video/march-31b-2009.mpg
I don't have a spare pump pump that can easily replace the CL pump I was thinking of. The broken pump is a Dart, my spare is a Hammerhead. It's alot bigger and doesn't fit in the spac unless I redo some plumbing - which I might do tomorrow.
The path to 40kg of new LR has been cleared and I hope to get it some time in April. Really looking forward to giving the tank a makeover.
Oh and I still want someone to just say, "Here, look, just get 2, 3 or 4 of these Tunze pumps". Maybe I'll make a post in the Equipment forum.
Took a while as it wasn't a swipe across with magnet job
Before:
After:
And some more crappy 7 second video with my phone:
Before: http://japanreef.com/video/march_2009.mpg
After:
http://japanreef.com/video/march-31a-2009.mpg
http://japanreef.com/video/march-31b-2009.mpg
I don't have a spare pump pump that can easily replace the CL pump I was thinking of. The broken pump is a Dart, my spare is a Hammerhead. It's alot bigger and doesn't fit in the spac unless I redo some plumbing - which I might do tomorrow.
The path to 40kg of new LR has been cleared and I hope to get it some time in April. Really looking forward to giving the tank a makeover.
Oh and I still want someone to just say, "Here, look, just get 2, 3 or 4 of these Tunze pumps". Maybe I'll make a post in the Equipment forum.
Now you know my question is which four?
I might even hook that Hammerhead up to OM 4-way. Have two that I never used. Tank has 4 holes in the back in the middle. That with 4 Tunzes (on each side) would be pretty nice. Or maybe I can just hook it up like this (would be easier):
|__|__|__|
.......|
(dots are just there to make it line up but you should get what I mean, output from pump tee'd then split into the 4 bulkheads)
I might even hook that Hammerhead up to OM 4-way. Have two that I never used. Tank has 4 holes in the back in the middle. That with 4 Tunzes (on each side) would be pretty nice. Or maybe I can just hook it up like this (would be easier):
|__|__|__|
.......|
(dots are just there to make it line up but you should get what I mean, output from pump tee'd then split into the 4 bulkheads)
