JapanReef - 450 gallon In-Wall system

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Sorry to butt in but.... Can you actually see bubbles in the return section of the sump? I thought I had the same problem. I made the cabinet dark and shined a flashlight into the sump and saw no bubbles. You may be fighting the wrong fight. If there aren't any mbs in the sump, shut down the circulation pump and let it sit for an hour or so and look for drips at your plumbing connections. I found a small leak on a connection and it solved my problems. Just trying to help.

I hope you find the source
CAReefer
 
I do have to get to the bottom of it because I'm after the fish suspending in air look. I'll track it down I hope.
 
Looking at your desighn I have the same roblem that you are having it is because of how narrow your sections are. I was using a GenX-40 1200 GPH and it pulls the bubbles right through because it is a narow path I have to use a Sock with mine or bubbles galore. I am having to change the sump design because of it.
PA120013.jpg


If you look at the picture my fuge is in the back which only leaves about 9 " for flow to go through makes it pull through really fast.

V/Tim
 
Looking at your desighn I have the same roblem that you are having it is because of how narrow your sections are. I was using a GenX-40 1200 GPH and it pulls the bubbles right through because it is a narow path I have to use a Sock with mine or bubbles galore. I am having to change the sump design because of it.
PA120013.jpg


If you look at the picture my fuge is in the back which only leaves about 9 " for flow to go through makes it pull through really fast.

V/Tim
 
Have you thought of making a bubble tower out of PVC on the line entering the sump?

Or adding bioballs to one of your over-under baffle sections? I had to do this in my sump to elminate my bubble problem.
 
mcdonaldtj, try using a less powerful return pump. For a 125g tank, your return pump only needs to push 3x to 5x that number, or 375 to 625gph. More flow in your display tank can be achieved with powerheads, Stream pumps or a closed loop.
 
I'm thinking about hooking my drains into the 902 and putting the Iwaki pump for the return and hooking skimmer output into the intake chamber.....

At the moment the drains open into the intake chamber right at the bottom. I have pipe going down to the bottom ending in a tee. In this tee I plug in a small piece of pipe with the filter bag. Maybe I should be draining to just a few inches under the water so the bubbles have less of a distance to travel to the top and disperse?
 
I would try the PVC bubble tower...

Cut the drain pipe off just under the water line, get a bigger diameter pvc pipe, (twice the size) and place the drain into the center of it. Have that bigger piece go right to the bottom of the sump, and stick out of the top of the water a few inches as well. Drill a pile of holes at the bottom and then fill the bigger pvc 'tower' with LR rubble so that your water has to filter through this LR rubble and out the holes at the bottom.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6645340#post6645340 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Psyire
Thank Melev, I believe it was in one of his posts that I first read about it...
I must be visual...any pics of what your describing?

Damon
 
Microbubbles

Microbubbles

Hi: I have been following your thread, while I too am setting-up a custom 225 gallon tank by AFY in NJ. I specified 1.5" drains in each of my overflow boxes. I went from a sequence barracuda to a pan world 100 to a small Gen-x (1100gph) return pump and still had bubbles. I read with detail over Melev's helpful site and now actually agree with a lower flow through the sump. My (2) tunze 6200 provide enough internal flow. Anyway, I created bubble traps just like Melev describes and still had microbubbles. I changed my plumbing, including my OM 1" flexible return nozzles, since air might be coming in via the joint spaces and still had microbbubbles. I created a double layered drip tray and still had microbubbles. I used felt socks and still had microbubbles. I was about to give up when I consulted with my friend Al Dispigna, the president of the Brooklyn Aquarium Society (the oldest, almost 100 years old, and largest aquarium society in the USA) and he immediately diagnosed the problem. My 1.5" drain pipes were simply too big. There was so much turbulence as the water flowed down the pipes that microbubbles where inevitable.

Solution: I placed reducers from 1.5" to 1" on the ends of each drain pipe and placed each in a felt bag and the microbubbles were all gone. By restricting the terminal lumen of the drain pipes upon exit, the water volume in each drain pipe was forced to back-up and increase. In fact, try placing your fingers at the end of the output of a 1" and a 1.5" and you will see and feel a more solid stream of water in the 1" drain. As simple as this sounds, the water flow is less turbulent and contains less air.

I hope this simple approach helps.

Respectfully, Dr. A
 
Microbubbles

Microbubbles

Hi: I have been following your thread, while I too am setting-up a custom 225 gallon tank by AFY in NJ. I specified 1.5" drains in each of my overflow boxes. I went from a sequence barracuda to a pan world 100 to a small Gen-x (1100gph) return pump and still had bubbles. I read with detail over Melev's helpful site and now actually agree with a lower flow through the sump. My (2) tunze 6200 provide enough internal flow. Anyway, I created bubble traps just like Melev describes and still had microbubbles. I changed my plumbing, including my OM 1" flexible return nozzles, since air might be coming in via the joint spaces and still had microbbubbles. I created a double layered drip tray and still had microbubbles. I used felt socks and still had microbubbles. I was about to give up when I consulted with my friend Al Dispigna, the president of the Brooklyn Aquarium Society (the oldest, almost 100 years old, and largest aquarium society in the USA) and he immediately diagnosed the problem. My 1.5" drain pipes were simply too big. There was so much turbulence as the water flowed down the pipes that microbubbles where inevitable.

Solution: I placed reducers from 1.5" to 1" on the ends of each drain pipe and placed each in a felt bag and the microbubbles were all gone. By restricting the terminal lumen of the drain pipes upon exit, the water volume in each drain pipe was forced to back-up and increase. In fact, try placing your fingers at the end of the output of a 1" and a 1.5" and you will see and feel a more solid stream of water in the 1" drain. As simple as this sounds, the water flow is less turbulent and contains less air.

I now have a crystal clear tank!

I hope this simple approach helps.

Respectfully, Dr. A
 
That is very interesting. Thanks for sharing your solution, as I bet it will help others in the future.

So did you simply insert a 1.5" to 1" bushing in the drainline, or was there more to it? The only drawback I see is if a fish goes down the plumbing accidentally. 1" isn't much room to escape, and some fish might act like the perfect blockage to make a tank overflow.
 
fish down the drain

fish down the drain

This is a valid concern and I am glad you bring it up. I guess placing a vinyl screen cover over the overflow might help with active jumpers. Better yet custom acrylic covers. Maybe you can start a line of Melev overflow covers. I know I would buy one from you. You have certainly proven to be ingenious and creative within the hobby.

Dr. A
 
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