JAT's 240 gal (8x2x2') build (upgrade from 125 gal)

[JohnnyAirtime]

Well, I'm almost embarased to post up... seeing so many AMAZING tanks and builds in this thread. I'll share my build... or, upgrade from a 10 month old 125gal. Bigger is better!!

(originally posted on SDReefs http://www.sdreefs.com/forums/showthread.php?t=79260)


First off, I had an 80gal sump running with the 125... with an ASM G4 skimmer, and big UV sterilizer... and rarely, if at all did water changes (ya, I know.. scold me! But it worked!). So my filtration didn't get upgraded.
The 125 build; http://www.sdreefs.com/forums/showthread.php?t=69450
125 progress; http://www.sdreefs.com/forums/showthread.php?t=73490

The 240: Let me lay it out for you...
I picked up a tank (http://www.tydpoolmarine.com/ brand) from an SDReefer (Wraithy). It needed A LOT of work, so much that it wasn't realized until I got it home. Wraithy had given me lots of extras when I left his house, so it took some of the pain out of the purchase... but, it's still painful (when your unemployed!). None-the-less, I continued on with the project to swap out my 125gal (with corals outgrowing) with the 240, even though my wallet said NO!

The canopy I got... was, fugly. So I knew I was to rebuild it. But to make it match the stand (which was "just okay"), would have been too much work since it was laminated (and I hate to laminate anything). So, I decided to build all new stand and canopy... and fix the tank's seams (one was splitting, another about to), and polish it out to perfection. My filtration would stay the same as it's built for 300gal+ ... and my lighting would change, since I want the shimmer of Halides.

So here it goes....
Here's my stand (in progress)!

(click on any picture to make it larger)

I used (10) 2x4x8' Kiln Dried and Clear Douglas Fir, 1 sheet 3/4" MDF, 1 sheet of 3/4" ACX Plywood, and 1x3 and 1x4 Kiln Dried and Clear Douglas Fir for trim. A whopping $300+ in wood! Ouch!

To make my job easier, I bought the Kreg System. Awesome!


The base, before 3/4" ply added;


Frame and base, ready for top plywood;


And with plywood;


You'll notice I made the stand for the dual overflow bulkheads to clear the "framing". I noticed on the original stand, it was a bit "notched" for clearance and with my experiences (with leaking bulkheads)... I want "easy" access to them (just in case)!


With trim and 3/4" MDF skin. And with tank... ready to be pre-plumbed;

 

[JohnnyAirtime]

Once done with the stand (minus doors still)... I began to get bored with woodwork and decided to take a stab at polishing the tank. I had already paid a professional to polish (and repair), but his polishing was sub-standard. He of course made the tank look better than when I bought it, but... still it was scratched, and people would ask... "did you have it polished yet?" Even though "better", it wasn't perfect. And I strive for perfection.

I did TONS of research into polishing, bought LOTS of things to do it right... and still, ended up with ONLY sand paper... and some Novus. I tried power tools, buffers, and several options... but 10 levels (320 to 2500) of grit wet/dry paper and a final touch of Novus 1,2,3 was by far the best outcome. Most work however!

Pictures do it NO JUSTICE of what it looks like, or the polishing itself;

Sanded... it looks cloudy;


Here's the other side... where I've not polished. It's messy with splatter and such, but looks pretty good in the photo. Up close... NO good;


Once polished (right side of blue tape), it's an amazing result of clarity (again, hard to tell in pictures);


I even had to polish inside the overflows. I'm not sure... but, how the heck do you scratch INSIDE your overflows?? Use the overflow as a sump and put rock rubble in there?! lol... I mean, really? I guess it could come from scraping coraline... or whatever. But, it looked horrible. Not anymore!

... I'll be done with the polishing this weekend. I even polished the top, where it had patches of glue or something that had spilled... and left clumps. I had to get aggressive in my sanding, but it's now a mirror shine up there.

 

[JohnnyAirtime]

Here I go with the plumbing....

Drilled 4 new holes across the top back. This will give me more loc-line to use as "powerheads", where my return pumps will feed the loc-line for water movement. I dislike powerheads, and with multiple return pumps (I use MAGDRIVE submersed pumps) I have a redundancy if a pump fails when I'm away. Did I mention, my pumps and filtration are on a UPS (backup battery supply) in case SDG&E fails me?!

I'll have a total of 6 return lines, fed by three pumps.

Here you can get an idea of the loc-lines across the back inside the tank, also... you'll see my "spray bar" which will spray down and into the back wall. Pushing detris and such away and out from the rockwork (I did this on my 125, and it keeps the backside of the rock/sand super clean of unwanted debris).


The overflows, ready to connect into my sump drain lines;


With the above, you'll also see the 4 returns (2 returns are in the overflow boxes) plumbed with back flow prevention. Even though the loc-line will be close to water level when the overflow boxes drain... I want more reassurance I won't overfill my 80gal sump!!

After several trips to my LFS and HomeD... it still wasn't enough. Here I am counting what I have, and what I still need for plumbing;


... this weekend, I'll finish the polishing... and finish the plumbing (temporary until it's moved into place). I'll build the canopy this next week... and install the lighting. READY FOR SWAP OUT the following weekend of the 24th!!
:bounce:

 

[JohnnyAirtime]

I didn't take too many pictures of the Canopy Build, as I was on a role. Didn't want to lose momentum. I bought the wood the day prior and still didn't have an exact plan of how I was to build it on paper... mostly in my head. So I bought the wood and guessed at the quantity (oh goodness).

I first built two rectangular wood frames out of 1x2 Poplar (and in doing so, realized I was going to be out of my Kreg Tool screws right quick), one would be top and another bottom. I then added the center supports of those rect. and followed them up with uprights to give them my "box" look of the canopy frame (still no pictures just yet). I then added center supports out of 1x4 poplar, which will hold the lighting "trays" at several different heights if needed. Meaning, I can move my lights up or down by 2" at a time... for tank cleaning, feeding, or depending on my coral needs. Most importantly... I can move them up high to keep the heat off the water and tank acrylic. With all of this, I was able to make sure it's square and start adding the sides of 1/2" MDF. And the center MDF piece.

With the MDF on both sides, the center light supports and the back MDF in place... It looks like this;


I then started putting my light supports on each end (out of 1x2 poplar);


I built a light tray, and put my Halide reflectors into it. The light tray is made of furring material, or 1/2" thick rough cut lumber. WHY? Well, I figured it would be replaced more often (in many years to come) and why build it out of nice wood when all it's to do is hold lights. Here's the light tray installed at the top most level, and without my T5 bulbs/reflectors;


From the direct front;


With that... I went ahead and built the two front doors... or removable panels and added a 1x2 trim to the very top. Oddly, I was out of 1x2 when I needed ONE MORE 6" piece. And I found it laying around... a 6.5" piece that I was using as a block to pount against. Putting the beat down side against the MDF... you couldn't even tell. But to say I "guessed" at my wood needed... I was LUCKY as I had just enough 1x2. *phew*


The two front panels slide up, and come off. I didn't hinge them, as it'd be too much work to hold them up.... and OUT of the way. So, they simply slide into place and lock down tight using the existing wood as a guide or hold. When the lights aren't on... they get a bit tight (wood swelling?), and when the lights are on... they come off super easy. Hmmm, maybe I'll need to sand'em down a bit more;


The light trays sit on only a 1/2" of material on each side of the 'tray'. And if you were in the tank, moving things around and knocked one... it may 'pop off' the shelf the tray sits on. So I made some quick little 'stops' to keep them from moving side to side (I call'em mini telephone poles);

 

[JohnnyAirtime]

MOVE DAY!!

Oh boy, what a day. I woke... excited about the move, but worried and stressed as well. It would be a long day, one that involved many "tasks" ... and some were not proven just yet (like bracing the floor more than it already was). I crossed my fingers, and began breaking down the 125gal.

I had to put the rock/corals into something that kept them from laying atop one another. So I bought 3 kiddie pools at Wal-Mart... and added the 15gal of SCRIPPS and 15gal of tank water. Then placed the specimens as best I could (some went into buckets or because they were too big for the pool... as the pool was pretty shallow - I have some BIG rocks. And then some "special" corals or livestock went into bowls);


I had already went and got about 260+ gallons of SCRIPPS, and it sat either in my Excursion or on the driveway. The point of getting it early was to allow it to heat up, in the days sun as I broke down the 125... and braced the subfloor. It did great, and warmed the water up to about 75-80ish.

Once the 125 was completely broke down and moved out, I assessed where I had put the initial bracing in the crawl space (read more here on the bracing). I really can't tell from up top inside the living room... so I had to guess, and make a 2" hole to see down below. Which I did, and noticed where one of my 4x6 braces were... and a block I had added. It wasn't going to leave me much room to cut a hole and access the underside crawl space. And I surely didn't want to crawl from the back of the house where the existing crawl access is located. Hmmm... I pondered this for a long time (too long actually), and made my cuts. Nothing like cutting into a floor with a saw!! I had already cut my new floating laminate flooring for the new stand, which you'll see in the pictures. I didn't want the stand to sit on the floating floor... as if, 3000lbs of reef tank would still allow it to float!! LOL.

Here, my bud (Herbie) and I assess the situation;


Once I was down inside the floor, I could see what I had done previous and what needed to be done for my rest and relaxation (so I could sleep at night, knowing this tank won't go through my floor). I had to try and fit the 4x6 x8' through the floor and it wasn't going. So I removed a side yard fence board, and sent it through from my neighbors yard... and through the house crawl space vent in the stucco. It almost didn't go... due to the existing bracing under the house and the floor joists being so close together. But we got it in... with some influence (bfh).

(and no, that's not a cannibus plant! )

Since I was under the house, I also ran a 1 1/2" PVC drain out from the back of my tank to the side yard (which is my "dog run"). This will made water changes a breeze (if I choose to do them). I have yet to make a new screen for the vent, as I did for my others out of stainless steel welding mesh;


(continued in next post)

 

[JohnnyAirtime]

All in all under my house is now;
(3) 4x6 x8' girders (perpendicular to the floor joists), all spaced evenly under the tank stand.
24' more feet of 2x8" blocking. In between the floor joists to keep them from twisting and support the tank in-between the joists.
... I honestly think this was the hardest thing to do in the entire move.

With the work under the house done (by about 4:30, which took me hours), we went to work on how we were going to move this SUPER heavy stand into place. And honestly, is was A LOT easier than I had expected. 2 guys, one girl... moved into place in 10min. Then came the tank... 5 more minutes and it was in (it looks so small!!);


Once the plumbing was all secure, and the last details of a few pieces "solvented" in place... I went to work on the drains and attaching them to my sump. Also, plumbed in the 3rd pump that I added for a another return line. I double checked my work, and started to add sand... pounds and pounds of it. I'd say I probably put 6 or more 5gal buckets of sand into the tank. Each bucket was full to the top. Once the sand was in... then came the SCRIPPs, straight from my driveway via a MAG18 pump. Once I had about 150gal in, I then added my old tank water and brought it up enough to start running it through to the sump. I couldn't wait ... even though the water was cloudy, I had to start adding some of the 'free' rocks I got when I bought the tank. Here, you can barely see some of them against the back;


The water got even more cloudy with this old dry rock... but soon began to clear up. Each hour... better and better. BUT, the kiddie pool water was getting colder and colder each hour as well. By 10, or 11 (I can't remember anymore!) that night... I started to add my rock/coral as best I could. I couldn't wait any longer. I think I was done by about midnight...1AM... I don't know, but the last to go in was my Harlequin and his Choc.Starfish meal. He carries that half-eaten starfish with him everywhere he goes... pretty funny actually.

So, as of Sunday AM... the corals were already opening up somewhat (on their schedule of course), and once I turned on the lights Sunday... I saw the rocks/coral placement wasn't too shabby. For it being hard to see (the night prior), and my fiance' sleeping off and on near me on the couch.... we both got it done pretty darn good the night prior. I'm a happy camper.

Sunday AM;


Today, I'll be making the doors to the stand and the bottom trim piece. And later this week... painting it, semi-gloss black. Once all done (100%), I'll be sure to add some more "completed" pictures.

A NOTE:
I'm using a 1" SCWD for two of the returns which isn't working too well. WHEN it decides to alternate, it takes hours... So, I need to fix that problem. As well, I'm going to add another 1" SCWD to another pair of returns... and have all 4 return lines alternate. Should give me a bit better flow and movement (or natural surge). I did notice that even a MAG18 can NOT push enough flow to 2 return lines using dual loc-lines. I had to take all my loc-lines apart... and make them single nozzles. Otherwise, the flow wasn't enough. Since I've done that, I get pretty good water movement.

I also need to remake a Durso Standpipe. Both overflows are using 1 1/4" PVC and one of them is having a hard time keeping up. Oddly, it's the shorter drain line... you'd think it'd be faster then the long drain line. But it's not. I'm going to try a 1 1/2" Durso and see if it'll flow better.

I also am going to add some switches for lights, and filtration stuff via the American Audio DJ panels. With the tank on UPS (battery backup), I've got to add some more lighting timers and cords. Oh joy. I hate clutter, so it's tough when standing at HomeD for power cords...etc.

... enough typing, I'm off to get some stuff done!!

 

[JohnnyAirtime]

So today, I did some errands and began to clean-up around the house/yard where I've managed to make a mess the last week or two.

In doing so, I made the doors and lower trim for the tank stand. Super quick and easy... and, I put in some shelves in the stand to make it nice and clutter free.

I also made this... my feed tube. When I'm super lazy and don't want to remove a front panel to feed the fish... I drop some pellets in. Wha-la... done! (it sits right above water level, and the pellets will sink since they get a running start to the water. Perfect as my fish prefer them in mid-water rather than floating)


Here it is, awaiting paint... which will come this week (before the holiday weekend) ... I need to get out my GOOD camera!!

(the picture shows a hot spot of light, however... I have only 2 Halides turned on at the moment - hence the darker areas of tank. With all 4 Halides, and the T5s... it's a LOT of light. Corals seem to love it so far! ... I'm playing with what Kelvin temp I like over the tank. Between 10K, 14K and 20K. I'm old school and still love 10K, but I lean towards the bluer light of 14 or 20K ... we'll see!)

 

[JohnnyAirtime]

DURSO Standpipes.

I noticed the Dursos that came with the tank.. worked, but were made from 1 1/4" PVC when they went through a 1 1/2" bulkhead. Why limit the flow? Well, one overflow wasn't flowing as fast as the other (not sure if it was due to pressure in the drain pipe, length of drain pipe...etc) so I went and rebuilt the Dursos as 1 1/2" pipe.

Boy, what a difference. I used black ABS for the vertical pipe since it looks much better (black on black Acrylic) and you can hardly see it, and it sure flows MUCH better. Also, it brought the noise down some, and my tank is nearly silent. The only noise you hear is the water rushing through the pipes towards the sump. (I don't have any ballast fans or cooling fans running.... so it's SUPER quiet).

... ahhh, thank goodness for Durso!!
...

(behind the Durso, is one of 6 return lines... also, with black tubing. But you can see the back flow prevention - or Swing style "check valve")

... this week, I'll build a fascia board that goes from floor to top of canopy (at the side, back of tank/stand/canopy) ... to hide the plumbing and electrical behind the tank. Should complete the "clean" look.

 

[JohnnyAirtime]

Quick Update;

NEW CORAL/FISH:
I was able to get to Mantis666 and find that he still had the old Mothership Devils Hand that I sold him (and who RatKiller sold me). Mantis666 (Chris) sold it back to me, and boy... is it big! It's doing great ... and already dropping a frag!

I also picked up a small Aussie Elegance from Reef-Dreams. Nice little piece. And a Blue Carpet Nem, which isn't doing so hot. We're keeping a CLOSE eye on the nem to see if it'll make it in the new home. Fingers crossed, but it's not looking too good.

AQUASD Hooked it up today since they are having a sale... I picked up a large rock with the small Blue cloves from AquaSD! 20% off! A great deal, for a LARGE rock COVERED in cloves! And a beautiful Lyretail Anthias.... and against my own judgement, a Flame Angel (with the idea that if he picks at my corals, he's going in my FOWLR!).

PAINTING:
I was able to paint the stand and canopy (Semi-Gloss Black). I simply primed, and painted. But with this heat, the paint dries so quick that it's hard for it to NOT leave roller marks/lines. I'll have to touch it up in the colder temps. It only shows those roller lines if you've got a keen eye for that kind of stuff or are meticulous (like me). Plus, I hate painting. Boy is it a lame part of the final project.

MOON LIGHTS:
I ordered in some "Moon Lights". But those moon lights are Computer Case LEDs from Directron.com (part: LED-ML12BL). They are a 12" (18) LED stick of blue lights. And wow... they work great!!! I took a Enercell Power Supply (2.5A capable with 6/7.5/9/12VDC) and wired it into the (4) LED strips. Each LED strip sits on top of the tank spaced evenly across the front, and fires directly to the back (not down, as you'd think... but horizontal). On the 6 volt setting the LEDs flash (like lightning), and at the 7.5V setting... they are a perfect Moon Light!! Anymore, and they start to light the tank too much. I wish I could get a picture of how well they just barely cast the moonlike light.... I'll try with my DSLR Camera and see what happens. And of course, I could have ordered some 'moon lights' from RD, but this is MUCH better... and a bit cheaper (as I'd have to have ordered two RD dual systems).

(I'll get pictures to support the above as soon as I can)

NEXT WEEK - LED Lighting:
I'll be ordering LED Panels this coming Monday. A total of (4) LED 112chip 1W panels to replace my (4) 250W Metal Halides. I can't deal with the chiller running 3/4 of the day and the heat in the room. The lights are just too hot for my house (I have no A/C) and will raise my elect. bill way too high. Even though I LOVE the shimmer, I'll be installing LED within two weeks at most. I was able to view a tank with LEDs, and with other given information (here, PMs, talking with users of LEDs, other forums...etc) I made a choice on what color ratio to go with. The guys in the Outback (Aus) have been doing this for a long time too, and have a forum that discusses it and their trials and tribulations. A great source of info for sure!!

(As soon as I get the LEDs in, I'll take pictures of them and get them installed. More pictures of course and a full review)

 

[Yaryman]

Johnny,
The tank looks great. Just a suggestion though.

Build some support for the overflows.
You do not want any part of your tank hanging over the edge unsupported.

 

[James404]

I agree with yary, also did you put any foam under the tank?

 

[JohnnyAirtime]

Johnny,
The tank looks great. Just a suggestion though.

Build some support for the overflows.
You do not want any part of your tank hanging over the edge unsupported.

I agree with yary, also did you put any foam under the tank?

You realize that area of "no support" is only the overflow, and only a measured 7"x7" area?? ... and why do you both think it's that important? Is it a physics equation your all referring to that I'm not aware of, or someone's past experience... or... what?
(if I get some worldy information back from either of you on your basis for the comment - I'll be happy to toss a 2x2" support under the very corner)

... and no, no foam. In my 20yrs of REEF tanks...I've never. Why foam?

 

[Yaryman]

Johnny,
I mentioned it because while you have very little weight from the tank in the overflow section there is no good reason not to completely support the whole tank.

It might never become a problem, or 3 years down the road suddenly you will have a crack in your tank because of the unsupported area.

A couple of 2x4s supporting the overflow would be real cheap insurance.

I rented a home that was two stories and had a top floor that extended 3 or 4 feet out past the bottom floor. The top floor section that hung over the bottom
floor sagged a couple inches. I'm sure it was level when built, but if you leave anything unsupported long enough gravity will have it's way.

 

[James404]

You realize that area of "no support" is only the overflow, and only a measured 7"x7" area?? ... and why do you both think it's that important? Is it a physics equation your all referring to that I'm not aware of, or someone's past experience... or... what?
(if I get some worldy information back from either of you on your basis for the comment - I'll be happy to toss a 2x2" support under the very corner)

... and no, no foam. In my 20yrs of REEF tanks...I've never. Why foam?

Usually it is standard practice to put foam under any tank that does not have a trim, this ensures the pressure is distributed evenly. If you have done it without for 20 years I wont doubt you. I just know murphy always wins.

 

[JohnnyAirtime]

Johnny,
I mentioned it because while you have very little weight from the tank in the overflow section there is no good reason not to completely support the whole tank.

It might never become a problem, or 3 years down the road suddenly you will have a crack in your tank because of the unsupported area.

A couple of 2x4s supporting the overflow would be real cheap insurance.

I rented a home that was two stories and had a top floor that extended 3 or 4 feet out past the bottom floor. The top floor section that hung over the bottom
floor sagged a couple inches. I'm sure it was level when built, but if you leave anything unsupported long enough gravity will have it's way.

I understand your theory, and the house sag example. And I agree... that it should have "some" support. To me, it's like drilling a hole in the plywood base for a bulkhead... nobody ever worries about it. But, since my "hole" is a bit larger, and in that corner... and it just "looks odd" when not supported - I'm going to add a 2x2 (there's not enough room for a 2x4, let alone "a couple of 2x4s") just to suffice. I really think it'll be okay even without, but "why not" right?! No harm in it.

Usually it is standard practice to put foam under any tank that does not have a trim, this ensures the pressure is distributed evenly. If you have done it without for 20 years I wont doubt you. I just know murphy always wins.

What "trim" are you referring to? Like the trim or surround on a glass tank? I'm confuzzzzed.

... and I think it's safe to say that with 2000+ lbs of weight on the sheet of plywood, I'm sure it's weight is distributed pretty evenly. If you think about it, you'd need some very dense foam to cure the unevenness for that kind of weight. And without knowing which foam is actually going to be able to handle the job (and not be a waste of time), is the second problem. But I'm sure there's plenty of suggestions from everyone on which foam is "best" ... I just wonder if there's ever been any (more or less) real science to it, and if anyone has any solid proof it's purpose is relevant. Call me a bit skeptical, even though I understand the theory behind it... I'm not sure it's warranted with a properly built stand (and a properly built aquarium).

 

[James404]

The trim I was referring to is like you would find on a regular off the shelf tank, the black trim that makes the aquarium rest on the perimeter. A tank like that would not need any foam.

Typically 3/4" insulation foam is used, this ensures that any minor imperfection in the plywood top doesn't leave gaps under the tank. Usually recommended by most acrylic tank manufacturers. I was merely curious if you used it and just giving information.

 

[JohnnyAirtime]

The trim I was referring to is like you would find on a regular off the shelf tank, the black trim that makes the aquarium rest on the perimeter. A tank like that would not need any foam.

Typically 3/4" insulation foam is used, this ensures that any minor imperfection in the plywood top doesn't leave gaps under the tank. Usually recommended by most acrylic tank manufacturers. I was merely curious if you used it and just giving information.

Gotcha. I was thinking more or less for large "imperfections" or swales in the wood. I see what you mean by the upper plywood surface imperfections. Makes more sense.

I used a high grade 'clear' 3/4" plywood that was pretty darn perfect. If it was the rough stuff you find at HomeD ... I can see that being more the issue.

:thumbsup:

 

[JohnnyAirtime]

I'm officially pumped....

I just ordered (today) my new LED panels (from overseas).
I spec'd them out to my needs, rather then buying what they normally sell to the masses. They say it'll take 5-7 days to build, and being they come DHL... it's a 3 day shipping timeframe. I should have my 4 panels in about 10days +/-

I'm sure this heat wave will be here for awhile, and I'm already over it. My sump room (my workout room - or 4th bedroom in my house) gets SUPER hot due to the chiller and the halide ballasts. And the tank is in my living room, where it too heats up the room from the halides. Just too darn hot... I can see I should be using my electrical meter as a fan too!! I'm sure it's spinning like no other.

The purpose of the LEDs for me is to;
- Save money on electrical (less chiller running time, no halide ballasts)
- Run the tank at cooler temps (no heat from halides)
- Give the tank some extra color due to the LED colors I ordered. And hopefully be able to remove my fiji purple and actinic T5s I have running.
- Remove the (4) T5 bulbs and ballasts

I did some homework on DIY kits, and their pricing. All-in-all it came out cheaper to order a complete panel. And, with it coming complete... all I have to do is plug it in.

I also ordered the panels with 4 elect. plugs.
- Each plug will provide power to a circuit. That circuit will run 28 LEDs.
- Each plug will get power from a power strip, that is off a timer. I can control each of the 4 circuits per panel independently. Coming on at a different interval.
- 4 timers will control the 4 panels and their on/off times. They will come on and go off at the same EXACT times. No need to synchronize 4 individual timers (1 on each panel).
- I have two circuits of white. So if it's too intense for all whites on at once, I can throttle back the intensity by not turning all the whites on.

I also ordered them with 4 individual switches.
- Each switch will control a circuit.
- no initial benefit other than to show friends the coloring each circuit adds to the corals, or to turn on/off manually.

I don't like some of the panels on individuals tanks, due to the "too blue" problem I see with my personal taste. I like a white light, supplemented with the actinics and fiji purple in a bulb lit tank. So I opted to order my panels with 12,000K whites rather then the norm 14,000K. I almost went with 10,000K, but I think it'll look too yellow for my tastes. I'm right in between, or close enough. I also ordered them with 460nm blues and 440nm purples. Being the Fiji "purple" bulb is a combination of 440 spectrum and some red, I think it'll help the deep water corals and add some "pop" to the coloring.

The chips being used are a well known company called Epistar. They are one of the largest manufacturers of LEDs. Nice to know there's some history behind the components, and I'm not the guinea pig.

The panels will be in black, and have the standard 3 cooling fans. They'll come with no controllers or timers and be ready for install the second I unbox them.

Once I receive them, I'll take pictures. I'm going to take one apart, and take a bunch of pictures of it to document it's craftsmandship. I'll also do a full review of the quality of the build and how they illuminate my tank. If there's any details you'd like to see me cover in my review... or when taking photos, please let me know. I'd be happy to oblige.

... stay tuned. Tic-Toc!

 

[h2odvl]

Great build! Funny how the larger the lank the faster they fill up (with rock and corals that is).
Do you mind saying what the name is of the LED Panel Company you are having build your lighting.
Can't wait to see more

 

[JohnnyAirtime]

Great build! Funny how the larger the lank the faster they fill up (with rock and corals that is).
Do you mind saying what the name is of the LED Panel Company you are having build your lighting.
Can't wait to see more

Yup... it is crazy. So much easier to clean too (larger access holes in top acrylic than my 125)

I'm not going to divulge any information until I receive the LEDs, and have them in and tested. As well, have written a review and given them a thumbs up/down. tic toc, 9 more days. Also, I've been buying from China for 5yrs in another business venture and was hooked up with this manufacturer (since my other biz is High Intensity Discharge lamps). I'm not sure they'd sell to the general public, but I can ask. I do know you have to meet a MOQ (minimum order quantity) for first time buyers, I think it's 20pcs.