JBJ 28 Gallon Nano Owners Club

If you wanted to replace some of the stock LEDs with blues and UV you would need to make sure that the ones you use to replace them are the same wattage and you would need to un-solder them and put them on the same strip that the stock whites are on. It would also have to be a 1-1 replacement. I thought about going that route first but I wanted the ability to be able to switch back to the stock look if there was any problem with my corals not dealing well with the change.

Putting the driver in the stand would help some with the heat but I don't think the heat is completely from the heatsync and driver. I believe that some of it is radiant heat just from the light transmission because I can feel the heat when I open the hood and the lights are shining on my face.

I still think I will be adding more colors or more LEDs to my hood. I will also be adding dimmers to the stock white LEDs and replacing some of the whites with natural whites to improve colors even more.

I'll let everyone know how things go with that. FYI, after making all these mods I still think that the LEDs are too white, so I unplugged the center strip of whites from the driver board inside the hood. Doesn't seem to have effected the brightness of the tank but did help with the color!

Krazie:jester:
 
What I'd really like is a way to dim the stock LEDs. They are too darn bright and bleach almost any SPS I try. :(

Kevin
 
Anemone said:
What I'd really like is a way to dim the stock LEDs. They are too darn bright and bleach almost any SPS I try. :(

Kevin
Click to expand...

That's my next project. I already have the information and the design figured out. My only real issue is that I will need to use a separate POT for each strip of white lights. It's not really a huge thing but that means 6 knobs sticking out the top of my hood instead of two. I was also considering maybe replacing the stock JBJ ballast and driver board with a Dimmable MeanWell driver so that I can put the dimmer in the stand or reduce the number of POTs that I have sticking out of the hood. I'll post an update as I work through that phase of the mod.

Krazie:jester:
 
If I thought the led's were a direct swap [just unsolder old ones and solder new ones in] I'd change out 6 of the whites for 4 royal blues and 2 UV bulbs.
I'm wondering if the ecoxotic stunner strips would fit between the rows of stock lights. I could put like 3 rows of blues and 2 rows of uv's just to enhance the colors of my corals and since they're only .25 watt per led and 6 watts per strip, they wouldn't raise my temp that much. They even make a dimmer for the stunners.
 
Couple of questions for you guys...
1. Should I remove the factory sponges between the last baffles?
2. In my media basket, should I put filter floss in the first chamber, cheato in the second, and carbon in the third or what are some suggestions?
3. Do I add a pump to install a phosban reactor or route it into the plumbing of one of the stock pumps?
 
XtremeFromHell said:
Couple of questions for you guys...
1. Should I remove the factory sponges between the last baffles?
2. In my media basket, should I put filter floss in the first chamber, cheato in the second, and carbon in the third or what are some suggestions?
3. Do I add a pump to install a phosban reactor or route it into the plumbing of one of the stock pumps?
Click to expand...

1) That's what I would recommend and what I did.

2) I'd avoid cheato personally. More of a mess than is worth it IMHO. If you're running a phosban reactor who needs cheato?

3) install its own designated pump. Eheim 300 works great and fits nicely in there.
 
1. I still use the sponges in the last baffles for sound reduction. It gets louder as the water drops down until my ATO kicks in.

2. I use both. But honestly, the cheato is really only there for pods and not for the phosphates.

3. I use an Eheim 300 with a TLF150 Reactor. Works great. It sits just under my Aquamaxx intake on the Left side next to the center chamber.
 
Does anyone have a photo of the original media basket that comes with the tank? I bought mine used with the InTank basket. Long story short I have a Kessil gooseneck that gets in the way of the InTank basket when it's seated properly. I'm wondering if the smaller original basket would fit with the Kessil attached to the back or if I'm going to have to jimmy rig something to hold my filter pad. Thanks.
 
chad p said:
Does anyone have a photo of the original media basket that comes with the tank? I bought mine used with the InTank basket. Long story short I have a Kessil gooseneck that gets in the way of the InTank basket when it's seated properly. I'm wondering if the smaller original basket would fit with the Kessil attached to the back or if I'm going to have to jimmy rig something to hold my filter pad. Thanks.
Click to expand...

Chad P = here's the stock basket next to the InTank version. Quite a bit smaller. Hope this helps!
 

Attachments

  • IMG_9167.jpg
    IMG_9167.jpg
    28.6 KB · Views: 3
That definitely helps. Thank you Marin!

Anyone want trade their stock media basket for my InTank basket for the cost of shipping? In other words Paypal me $8 and we'll swap? With my Kessil mounted I can't fit my InTank basket but I think a stock one will fit with the A350 mounted there.

Let me know if you are interested in swapping your stock basket for an InTank for your old one plus 8 measly dollars. PM me if you wanna swap.
 
Does anyone have trouble taking macro pictures with their Nanocube due to the curved glass? For a while I couldn't figure out why my closeups came out blurry even though I use a tripod then realized it might be due to light distortion on the glass angle.
 
NanoReefer53 said:
Does anyone have trouble taking macro pictures with their Nanocube due to the curved glass? For a while I couldn't figure out why my closeups came out blurry even though I use a tripod then realized it might be due to light distortion on the glass angle.
Click to expand...

Yes. Trick is to be level to what you are shooting at. If you angle the lens relative to the glass you will never get a clear shot.
 
Just got the quad cf version off Craigslist. Want to keep the hood not go topless and was looking at buying the Pro hood. I have read the lights have too much white too them. Other option was to use the Ecoxotic panorama pro and remove the cf from the hood. What would be the best option?

Not looking to do the rapid LED kit. Less messing with wires the better for me.
 
Chas19 said:
Just got the quad cf version off Craigslist. Want to keep the hood not go topless and was looking at buying the Pro hood. I have read the lights have too much white too them. Other option was to use the Ecoxotic panorama pro and remove the cf from the hood. What would be the best option?

Not looking to do the rapid LED kit. Less messing with wires the better for me.
Click to expand...

I just upgraded my CF quad with the solderless Rapid kit. It was really easy to follow their instructions and I love how it still looks stock. I was also able to go full spectrum for no extra charge. I mixed 8 RB, 2 BL, 3 UV, 1 Red, 1 Green, 3 CW, 1 NW, and 1 WW. Corals are responding very well. The whole thing took about 8 hours but that includes a couple runs to the store.
 
I moved to a new home and everything made it ok. However, I could not turn on my Aquamaxx HOB-1 because it would just overflow my skimmer cup like mad. It has happened before and I usually wait a few hrs, sometimes up to a day and it is back to normal. This time, it has been a week and a half with no change. I finally got fed up and just turned it on and let it overflow back into the skimmer. It's now been 3 days and still overflows. I have tried using carbon (multiple times) and Purigen in the tank to try to take out whatever is causing the issue but I am at a loss. I had no losses in the transfer and my fish, clam and corals are doing great! Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
 
I did fail to mention that everything went from one tank to a new tank because my tank was defective and replaced. I am thinking that maybe there was some oils or something that may be causing the issue and I may just have to wait and let the carbon/purigen soak it up over time. Of course this also means I am running slightly dirtier water.

I currently have the following in the tank:
Flame Angel (Sonny)
Purple Firefish (Murphy)
Royal Gramma (Princess Dot)
Longnose Hawk (Hawkeye)
Yellow Goby (Chiquita)
6 Florida Ceriths
18 Nassarius
4" Gold and Purple Crocea
Pink Birdsnest
Purple Tip Green Frogspawn
Alveopora
Wham'n Watermelon Zoas
Neon Green Paly's
2" Sand bed
Approx 30lbs Live Rock

Does anyone think I will have any issues with anything if I can't run the skimmer for a month or so? I think I will increase my water changes from 3g weekly to 4g weekly but I can't think of what else I can do. I would appreciate any suggestions I could try.

Thanks
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

AZBigJohn
New Build... I'm back
2
Replies
25
Views
1K
Dustin07
D
C
RSM Max Nano XL Plan / Build
2
Replies
21
Views
1K
griss
griss
D
Structural support for 125 gallon aquarium
Replies
7
Views
387
ddang
D
Brian60077
Big project starting today......
Replies
7
Views
486
Dustin07
D
AquaticReefTV
DIY Cable management time lapse
Replies
1
Views
679
S|\/|S
S
Back
Top