iFisch
New member
EDIT: Wait, what exactly do you mean the "cup" from the media basket? I'm not sure I understand.. Do you mean the skimmer and not media basket?
JBJ 28 Gallon Nano Owners Club
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
EDIT: Wait, what exactly do you mean the "cup" from the media basket? I'm not sure I understand.. Do you mean the skimmer and not media basket?
sahin
Ultimate Reefer
Xandernfs: Here is my take on the JBJ 28G HQI...I have had the tank for about 3 months, still setting it up.
The skimmer is crap. I have it going at full air volume and it just produces a little foam. Its a real pain to remove the whole skimmer every time you want to open the hood. Before I bought the tank I thought it cant be that much of a pain, but I find now that it is. But, it does continue to produce the little foam as long as the bioload is there, just below average performance IMO.
Lightingwise, yes, it is very powerful and I dont think you can really put much higher powered lighting and get any additional benefits for this tank (I have had DE 250Watt lights with T5's before as well as various fluoros).
However, depending on ambient room temperature, you may or may not need a chiller. My living room is always very warm (live in a modern flat), so room temp is usually about 26'C. So; when the halide comes on it makes the temp go upto 30'C quite easily. This is EASILY fixed by using an Azoo twin fan unit (cost = £15 or $24US). I have it on a controller.
Tank itself is nice overall. But the rear compartments are very slim and wasted IMO to a large degree.
Would I buy another All in one tank? No. If yes, it would be a tank/sump/stand all in one.
1. I would have changed the skimmer if there was a lot of options, but there an easy and practical options-like if one had a sump.
2. I am changing out the magnetic ballast for an electronic one becuase the ballast comsumes around 234watts of power as measured by a watt meter!
3. Even though I have a Phoenix 14K halide bulb, it appears white in colour rather than having a blue tint as I want it-this is due to the magnetic ballast supplied.
4. I made my own stand as the one otherwise supplied is crap and I dont trust it.
However, having said all this, I have it now and will setup my tank and hopefully run it for at least 2-3 years and then upgrade to a custom tank. There are now all in one units that come with sumps and that would be a requirement.
If you havent bought one aready, I reccommend you take a look at a store desiged small tank similar in size with a sump. So I would get the tank, stand and sump built to custom specs or the closest dimensions that off the shelf tank/stand/sump units come in. I would then get a suitable T5 or halide unit and a decent skimmer. I did the sums last week and had a look at what available in non all in one units and the price would be only a bit higher, but each piece of equipment would be WHAT I want, not a crappy skimmer and almost unuseable rear compartment.
Maybe I have been over critical, but, overall I do like it, just some of the supplied equipment could have been better. If it had a sump, would have rated it MUCH higher.
The skimmer is crap. I have it going at full air volume and it just produces a little foam. Its a real pain to remove the whole skimmer every time you want to open the hood. Before I bought the tank I thought it cant be that much of a pain, but I find now that it is. But, it does continue to produce the little foam as long as the bioload is there, just below average performance IMO.
Lightingwise, yes, it is very powerful and I dont think you can really put much higher powered lighting and get any additional benefits for this tank (I have had DE 250Watt lights with T5's before as well as various fluoros).
However, depending on ambient room temperature, you may or may not need a chiller. My living room is always very warm (live in a modern flat), so room temp is usually about 26'C. So; when the halide comes on it makes the temp go upto 30'C quite easily. This is EASILY fixed by using an Azoo twin fan unit (cost = £15 or $24US). I have it on a controller.
Tank itself is nice overall. But the rear compartments are very slim and wasted IMO to a large degree.
Would I buy another All in one tank? No. If yes, it would be a tank/sump/stand all in one.
1. I would have changed the skimmer if there was a lot of options, but there an easy and practical options-like if one had a sump.
2. I am changing out the magnetic ballast for an electronic one becuase the ballast comsumes around 234watts of power as measured by a watt meter!
3. Even though I have a Phoenix 14K halide bulb, it appears white in colour rather than having a blue tint as I want it-this is due to the magnetic ballast supplied.
4. I made my own stand as the one otherwise supplied is crap and I dont trust it.
However, having said all this, I have it now and will setup my tank and hopefully run it for at least 2-3 years and then upgrade to a custom tank. There are now all in one units that come with sumps and that would be a requirement.
If you havent bought one aready, I reccommend you take a look at a store desiged small tank similar in size with a sump. So I would get the tank, stand and sump built to custom specs or the closest dimensions that off the shelf tank/stand/sump units come in. I would then get a suitable T5 or halide unit and a decent skimmer. I did the sums last week and had a look at what available in non all in one units and the price would be only a bit higher, but each piece of equipment would be WHAT I want, not a crappy skimmer and almost unuseable rear compartment.
Maybe I have been over critical, but, overall I do like it, just some of the supplied equipment could have been better. If it had a sump, would have rated it MUCH higher.
sahin
Ultimate Reefer
I agree with Ifisch; an ATO is not need for such a small tank. I use evaporative cooling on my tank, I only need to replace about 500mls of water per day. Its such a small amount it doesnt change parameters much at all. However, if one were away from the tank for two-three days regularly, then it becomes a must or if you go on holiday (but then I would have someone check the tank ever two days or more if possible).
Chemistry Guy
New member
Well, it just so happens that I do spend a weekend away about once a month, haha. So for me, ATO is necessary. Yeah, I guess if you don't mind manually topping off every day you don't need it. Still, my ATO only cost about $20 (DIY), so it was well worth it for my peace of mind.
balloonpilot
Premium Member
Sorry... My bad...
I'm talking about the replacement cup for the Tunze skimmer.
And yes, I understand that if its volume is smaller that means more frequent dumps - but Im trying to avoid that. Maybe its because my skimmer is only 2 weeks old but whenever I take the stock "cup" off to dump, it takes almost 1/2 a day before the bubbles start up again... So I figured the larger the cup the less I have to dump = more consistent skimming.
i've also noticed that where I've got the skimmer "air" set its working fine with bubbles climbing up the cup, but by the next morining the skimmer has gone into warp speed and filled the cup! So i dump it out and fills up again w/o 15 minutes, so i turn screw down a bit and all is well. Then the next day same time... Could this still be part of the burn-in process?
I'm talking about the replacement cup for the Tunze skimmer.
And yes, I understand that if its volume is smaller that means more frequent dumps - but Im trying to avoid that. Maybe its because my skimmer is only 2 weeks old but whenever I take the stock "cup" off to dump, it takes almost 1/2 a day before the bubbles start up again... So I figured the larger the cup the less I have to dump = more consistent skimming.
i've also noticed that where I've got the skimmer "air" set its working fine with bubbles climbing up the cup, but by the next morining the skimmer has gone into warp speed and filled the cup! So i dump it out and fills up again w/o 15 minutes, so i turn screw down a bit and all is well. Then the next day same time... Could this still be part of the burn-in process?
balloonpilot
Premium Member
iFisch -
I just realized there are TWO upgrade cups:
1) "Standard" is 3.5" tall, 2.7" deep, and 4.5" wide.
2) "Small" is 3.5" tall, 2.3" deep, and 4.7" wide
Which one is best for the Tunze 9002 on the JBJ 28 tank?
I just realized there are TWO upgrade cups:
1) "Standard" is 3.5" tall, 2.7" deep, and 4.5" wide.
2) "Small" is 3.5" tall, 2.3" deep, and 4.7" wide
Which one is best for the Tunze 9002 on the JBJ 28 tank?
sahin
Ultimate Reefer
Well, some may have seen my thread in the Lighting forum I posted a about electricity usage of my halide ballast using around 245watts! Well, I found a suitable ballast and checked with supplier who confirmed that it would work with my intended halide bulb. It arrived yesterday and I duly set about wiring it up to my hood. The hood contains 4 cooling fans that run in addition to the halide bulb, so I was unsure how could get these to run once the new electronic ballast was in place. I thought I would have to end up using a suitable DC adaptor.
Well, once I opened up the ballast housing, this is what it all looked inside:
Notice all the wires and the little transformer to run the 4 cooling fans. You can just see edge of the old white magnetic coil.
I thought I would have to cut the external wires etc. But I carefully looked at the wiring as well as copying it all down in case the new ballast didnt work or I had return the hood and ballast for warranty purposes, this is the result:
Once that was all done, with a more carefully look, I reaslised I could retain the transformer to run the cooling fans, AND I could wire it all internally WITHOUT cutting any of the external wires :idea:. This meant the cord rurning from the exterior of the ballast will remain the same and the hood need not be touched.
Here is the result after I wired in the new Tridonic Electronic/Digital Ballast:
All looking good. It fitted nicely into the old housing and from the outside it all looks the same. It is as if nothing has changed!
I think a job well done. Was quite impressed with myself. First time I ever looked inside a ballast, and managed to wire it all and get it correctly wired first time. I'm not a sparky by the way!
Anyway, why did I do this again?
1. To cut down on electricity cost
2. To burn the 14K Phoenix Bulb at the correct wattage etc it was meant for - was being over driven by the manetic ballast resulting in the colour shifting away from the blue/violet end
3. Do my bit for the environment/carbon footprint
How much did it cost? Only £15 / $24US for a brand new ballast and about 2 hours work!
After I hooked it all up:
1. The bulb does burn with a bluer tint, as I wanted
2. The ballast runs MUCH cooler
3. The ballast PLUS the little transformer that runs the cooling fans are now using only 164 watts of power compared to 245 watts!
4. That saves me about £30 /$48US a year in electricity costs.
5. Not 100% sure on this, but I think the bulb may run a little cooler too as the hood was cooler to the touch.
6. No more excess heat from the ballast. Nor any humming noise.
I suppose I have lost a small percentage of light the corals will receive, however, I think 150watts of it is quite sufficient in this small tank.
Very happy with this mod as there are many benefits! :rollface:
Well, once I opened up the ballast housing, this is what it all looked inside:
Notice all the wires and the little transformer to run the 4 cooling fans. You can just see edge of the old white magnetic coil.
I thought I would have to cut the external wires etc. But I carefully looked at the wiring as well as copying it all down in case the new ballast didnt work or I had return the hood and ballast for warranty purposes, this is the result:
Once that was all done, with a more carefully look, I reaslised I could retain the transformer to run the cooling fans, AND I could wire it all internally WITHOUT cutting any of the external wires :idea:. This meant the cord rurning from the exterior of the ballast will remain the same and the hood need not be touched.
Here is the result after I wired in the new Tridonic Electronic/Digital Ballast:
All looking good. It fitted nicely into the old housing and from the outside it all looks the same. It is as if nothing has changed!
I think a job well done. Was quite impressed with myself. First time I ever looked inside a ballast, and managed to wire it all and get it correctly wired first time. I'm not a sparky by the way!
Anyway, why did I do this again?
1. To cut down on electricity cost
2. To burn the 14K Phoenix Bulb at the correct wattage etc it was meant for - was being over driven by the manetic ballast resulting in the colour shifting away from the blue/violet end
3. Do my bit for the environment/carbon footprint
How much did it cost? Only £15 / $24US for a brand new ballast and about 2 hours work!
After I hooked it all up:
1. The bulb does burn with a bluer tint, as I wanted
2. The ballast runs MUCH cooler
3. The ballast PLUS the little transformer that runs the cooling fans are now using only 164 watts of power compared to 245 watts!
4. That saves me about £30 /$48US a year in electricity costs.
5. Not 100% sure on this, but I think the bulb may run a little cooler too as the hood was cooler to the touch.
6. No more excess heat from the ballast. Nor any humming noise.
I suppose I have lost a small percentage of light the corals will receive, however, I think 150watts of it is quite sufficient in this small tank.
Very happy with this mod as there are many benefits! :rollface:
SlvrSurfRidr
aka: coraltopia
Nice upgrade, is that the electric retro balast/kit available from nanotuners:
http://www.nanotuners.com/product_info.php?cPath=68&products_id=525
How did you test the electric usage to determine you were using so much?!
http://www.nanotuners.com/product_info.php?cPath=68&products_id=525
How did you test the electric usage to determine you were using so much?!
iFisch
New member
I'm assuming something similar to a Kill-a-watt meter. Just plug the meter into the outlet, and plug whatever you want into it, and it will tell you how many watts your pulling.
sahin
Ultimate Reefer
Its not the nanotuners one as shipping costs would be be VERY expensive to the UK. Also, unlike the nanotuners mod/upgrade, I didnt have to use any separate adaptor for the 4 cooling fans in the hood. Neither did I have to cut the cables running from the ballast to the hood. Its all intact. 
SlvrSurfRidr
aka: coraltopia
Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but didn't nanotuners have a magnetic retro balast setup? Looks like the one they offer now is *not* magnetic.
Sahin - did you say your new install was a magnetic? or did you upgrade from a previous version that *was* magnetic?
Sahin - did you say your new install was a magnetic? or did you upgrade from a previous version that *was* magnetic?
sahin
Ultimate Reefer
SlvrSurfRidr: I upgraded from a magnetic Ballast that was using about 240 watts of power (measured by a suitable watt meter) and burned the halide bulb very white. I now have an electronic ballast that consumes only 150 watts of power and runs the Phoenix 14K bulb with a blue tinted white colour.
I think you are right, nanotuners are now offering a retro or upgrade ballasts that are electronic.
In the UK 100watt incandescent bulbs have now been banned. Only way to get 100watts is to use a 40watt flouro which is equivalent to the 100watt incand. in terms of light output.
So I think most older magnetic coil type ballasts will be hard to find in a another few years as they waste a lot of electricity by producing excessive heat.
It only makes sense for nanotuners or any other retailer for that matter to offer upgrade ballasts that are more energy efficient.
I think you are right, nanotuners are now offering a retro or upgrade ballasts that are electronic.
In the UK 100watt incandescent bulbs have now been banned. Only way to get 100watts is to use a 40watt flouro which is equivalent to the 100watt incand. in terms of light output.
So I think most older magnetic coil type ballasts will be hard to find in a another few years as they waste a lot of electricity by producing excessive heat.
It only makes sense for nanotuners or any other retailer for that matter to offer upgrade ballasts that are more energy efficient.
iFisch
New member
But a lot of bulbs are spec'd to the M80 magnetic ballast, still. And MH tends to run better overall, on proper magnetic ballasts. However, electronic ballasts are quieter, more efficient, cooler (temp wise) and pull more electricity.
What was your ballast rated for? 150w or 250w, and was pulling 240w?
ddawson
Member
sahin, can you post the model number of that ballast? I have the Nanotuners unit that I never installed because you have to cut into the wiring. I guess I can check and see if it fits in the Mag enclosure.
I've had my system up for about a year and half now. The stock skimmer sucked so I have a HOB unit that works ok. I don't use any other media but charcoal at times.
I find a Chiller is mandatory for me. I hit 81F on a daily bases.
As for evap I find I only need to top off once a week on average.
I lost all my SPS while I was away on a business trip for two weeks. I did a huge water change but it was too late. For now I'm sticking with my clam and fish.
I've had my system up for about a year and half now. The stock skimmer sucked so I have a HOB unit that works ok. I don't use any other media but charcoal at times.
I find a Chiller is mandatory for me. I hit 81F on a daily bases.
As for evap I find I only need to top off once a week on average.
I lost all my SPS while I was away on a business trip for two weeks. I did a huge water change but it was too late. For now I'm sticking with my clam and fish.
iFisch
New member
SPS + nano + long business trips =
It never ends nicely. 81* is plenty fine. If you were at 85*, then you might consider a "cooler" option.
ddawson
Member
I'm sure my wive over feed the tank. She always feels so bad when I don't feed them everyday.
I guess she couldn't take it and feed them daily.
I had some form of red plants growing so moved most of the LR to the gauge to cook without sunlight for awhile. It's kind of like starting over again. :sad1:
Sucks loosing all the money, so I may just do 1 or 2 this time.
I guess she couldn't take it and feed them daily.
I had some form of red plants growing so moved most of the LR to the gauge to cook without sunlight for awhile. It's kind of like starting over again. :sad1:
Sucks loosing all the money, so I may just do 1 or 2 this time.
iFisch
New member
Why not just educate her on the hobby? I see so many couples highly involved in this hobby. Both - together.
ddawson
Member
Her idea would be to take it down so she can but a desk in.
Over the years I've gone from a 55, 90, 40, and now this tank.
They just keep getting smaller LOL.
Neptangelo
In Memoriam
I have the opposite problem. When I go out of town my wife forgets to feed my tanks so they are in better shape when I get back home....
