JBJ 28 Gallon Nano Owners Club

Pad changed every 24hrs now.

Taking water out just drops my back corner water levels but not the front display. If I go any lower, my ATO kicks in and fills right back up or my pumps go dry.

My Chemi-Pure hangs already and my Purigen is at an angle right below it.

I think tomorrow when I have the time, I am going to experiment with removing the Chemi-Pure and Purigen to see what happens. That will leave the chaeto and pad only. If water flow goes up then my issue will be solved. Will get a reactor and carbon in it's place when I can afford it.

I think this would be a decent plan. What do you think?

Thanks for all your help. I really appreciate it.
 
Pad changed every 24hrs now.

Taking water out just drops my back corner water levels but not the front display. If I go any lower, my ATO kicks in and fills right back up or my pumps go dry.

My Chemi-Pure hangs already and my Purigen is at an angle right below it.

I think tomorrow when I have the time, I am going to experiment with removing the Chemi-Pure and Purigen to see what happens. That will leave the chaeto and pad only. If water flow goes up then my issue will be solved. Will get a reactor and carbon in it's place when I can afford it.

I think this would be a decent plan. What do you think?

Thanks for all your help. I really appreciate it.

I'm at a loss then personally about the leak then. Check to see if the tank is level is the only other thing I can think of. Perhaps the front of the tank is slightly lower than the back.

I have my Purigen in the middle and Chemi-Pure on the bottom. It's been my understanding that this is the suggested order. I think that may be your problem with flow especially if you're using the 11.74 size.
 
A few goodies that I ordered came in today but I have a few questions

Tunze 6015 - I am assuming that you have to drill the hood in order to have a powerhead inside the cube. Is this correct?

TLF Kalk Reactor 300 - I cannot decide if I should install this on my system. I'm leaning on No but not sure. In order to install this, I'll have to remove either one of the TLF Phosban Reactors. One holds carbon and the other one holds GFO. I'm thinking that the best route for me to take is to add Kalk to the Top off container and two part dose if needed. I want to get others opinion though. This is going to be mainly a SPS nano cube so I will have to supplement Ca and Alk one way or another.
 
I really don't want to replace the maxijets. The tank is doing so good with them currently. What do others do that have maxijet 1200's?

If I do replace them back to the stock Accella's, would it be much of a difference? Accella's are rated at 266gph and the Maxijets at 298gph.

Is it that I have too many obstructions in the In Tank Basket?
Top=Filter Pad
Mid=Chaeto
Low=Chemi-Pure 6oz and Purigen

If that is the case, adding a Reactor with BRS Carbon in place of the Chemi-Pure and Purigen would help correct?

Thanks

It's not having too many obstructions in the media basket. When that's the case the water just overflows on the sides but stays in the back. The water level in the display tank changes based on the flow. Lower flow and it'll drop, higher flow return pumps and it'll go up. I don't think that changing one of your maxi jets out for a lower flow pump would negatively affect things but it's up to you. There's just really no other way to lower the level in your tank than to replace the return pumps for lower flow ones.
 
Here is my almost 2 month old 28 nano cube... no fish yet, they are all in my QT

IMG_4197.jpg


I know I have one sps there, and it's too early but I did know when I bought it. Not getting anything sps but how do I take care of this one, don't want to loose it.
So far it looked good, even if I only got this one today and it opened up all the way already.

very happy on how it looked and I want to stay it that way.

What do you all think? suggestions are open too.
 
Chad,

My basket does overflow. I tried removing the chaeto and putting the purigen and chemi-pure in seperate chambers and the basket stops overflowing at that point so I think the Reactor idea will probably work.

As far as the Maxijets, the tank is finally doing really well with all that flow. Most of the algae has disappeared and all the cyano is pretty much gone. Additionally, the extra flow thru the basket is probably helping too! So I guess a little spill over is not too big of an issue at this point considering how well the tank is doing. So I think once the Reactor is up and running and the only thing in the basket is the chaeto and pad, all problems will be solved.

As far as the level, I am going to live with it and silicone the leaking edge if necessary. It is so small though that as long as I don't move/twist the tank, the salt creep plugs it.

Thanks
 
For those that have reactors in their JBJ Nano, how much carbon and phosban do you use in the reactor and how often do you change it out?

I'm planning 1 Phosban 150 with an Eheim 300.

Will probably run both phosban and brs rox carbon for a little bit and then just the brs rox carbon once all the algae in my tank is gone and the chaeto grows some more in my In TankBasket to keep up with the demand.

By the way, BRS states 2 tablespoons of Rox Carbon and 3 tablespoons of Phosban for 28g. Would this be ok if I changed it out every 2 weeks or so? Would it last longer?

Bioload is not that bad right now:
2 clowns
1 alveopora
1 emerald
5 hermits
20-25 nassarius (They had babies!)
6 Florida Ceriths
50+ Dwarf Ceriths

Thanks
 
I use about 8 tbs. of BRS GFO in mine and about 4-5 tbs of high quality carbon. When starting it up for the first time though I'd start with BRS' suggested rate which I believe is 1 tbs per 4 gallons of water in the system. For you and me that's about 6 tbs. or so. If you go too heavy on the GFO right outta the gates you may shock your livestock.

I replace my media about once a month or so but I go by the film algae more than the calander. If I have to clean the brown film from the glass more than once every 5+ days or so I know it's time to change it out.
 
Hi, i'm assuming that the clips on the back of my used NC are for a fuge light. Can someone please advise what light these would be used for?

Thanks

4iy5bc.jpg
 
My tank gets to exactly 83.5 as well but I have PC Quads. I use a 5" clip on fan that works great. $10 at Kmart. Drops temp down to 78-79 all day.
 
Ange,

I have definitely decided on getting a TLF 150 Reactor. However, I have a question on what pump to use. You had mentioned either an Eheim 300 or 600. I was leaning toward the 600 but it has a 5/8" connector and the Reactor is only 1/2". How would I connect it? I already have the tubing from Dr Fosters that is 1/2"ID and 3/4"OD. Could I use this? How would I tighten it down?

As far as the pumps, would I have any advantage to going with the 600 over the 300 other than more flow? My plan is to have about 4tbs of BRS Rox Carbon and 6tbs of Phosban in it and replace it every 3-4 weeks. Based on the video I saw (BRS I think.), I am suppose to mix both very well and pack them tightly between the foam inserts so no tumbling will happen. Based on this, would the 600 be better for a little more flow?

Thanks for all you help.

PS - I am including a pic of my tank currently. Not quite done with what I want of course but I think it's a nice start considering I'm only 3 months in.

Thanks Again. :beer:
 

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I'd go with the 300 if you're only running one reactor. It provides plenty of flow, it's smaller and I'd assume it would put off less heat although neither one will give you problems in that area. Less flow is better in this case because it allows for more contact between the water and the media. I remember seeing one BRS video where they say they'd prefer lower flow but a light tumbling is often recommended only to keep it from clumping together. More flow equals less contact time and therefore less efficiency. Not to mention it increases the grinding of the GFO and carbon.

Just my .02
 
Well the JBJ air skimmer works well but is noisy and has to be moved if you want to open lid past 35 degrees. Only other skimmer I have found which will actually fit in the skimmer box is the Aqua-Euro II. It is a pinwheel style skimmer, but you will have to remove the elbow which has the water flow control attached. This leaves you only air control and the result is a wetter skim. Not really a problem as skim is skim, but makes you have to empty more often. I still find it is a lttle noisy but I am starting to prefer this over the JBJ, unless you make mods to it as well. It can be made quieter with a change to a quieter air pump and better tubing. But be aware that only JBJ stones will fit this unit and they are not cheap. I guess this is where a sump would come into play, but personally I refise to sump Nano tanks for this purpose. In reality a well set up JBJ with the proper amount of rock and light Bioload should not really need a skimmer. I use them but could and should really play without them. Hum maybe I just talked myself into removing my skimmers.

Happy Reefing
 
i finally received my tank after about 3 weeks. a few questions for everyone

there are 2 pieces of black foam? filter? in the back, do i leave that in or do i keep that in?

i bought the intank media basket to replace the stock one, i watched their installation video to install the little clip that holds it in place but theres no groove on my tank.

the 2 built in pumps? is that what they are called? the 2 things sticking out inside the tank. do i need to plug that into that power unit controller it came with? do i need to turn those 2 things on if im gonna be running a MP10?
 
Ange,

I have definitely decided on getting a TLF 150 Reactor. However, I have a question on what pump to use. You had mentioned either an Eheim 300 or 600. I was leaning toward the 600 but it has a 5/8" connector and the Reactor is only 1/2". How would I connect it? I already have the tubing from Dr Fosters that is 1/2"ID and 3/4"OD. Could I use this? How would I tighten it down?

As far as the pumps, would I have any advantage to going with the 600 over the 300 other than more flow? My plan is to have about 4tbs of BRS Rox Carbon and 6tbs of Phosban in it and replace it every 3-4 weeks. Based on the video I saw (BRS I think.), I am suppose to mix both very well and pack them tightly between the foam inserts so no tumbling will happen. Based on this, would the 600 be better for a little more flow?

Thanks for all you help.

PS - I am including a pic of my tank currently. Not quite done with what I want of course but I think it's a nice start considering I'm only 3 months in.

Thanks Again. :beer:

I like using the 600, but I have two reactors plumbed serially. Even though the flow is reduced by about half using the flow-valve, I like having the extra flow on tap to stir up the media every couple of days. The 600 is 1/2" outlet just like the 300, only the 1000 has the 5/8" outlet. Extra heat also isn't a problem for me since I run a chiller.

What skimmers work the best without any mods?

AquaMaxx HOB-1, works great and only requires a tiny simple mod to the skimmer (none to the tank):
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2027481



i finally received my tank after about 3 weeks. a few questions for everyone

there are 2 pieces of black foam? filter? in the back, do i leave that in or do i keep that in?

i bought the intank media basket to replace the stock one, i watched their installation video to install the little clip that holds it in place but theres no groove on my tank.

the 2 built in pumps? is that what they are called? the 2 things sticking out inside the tank. do i need to plug that into that power unit controller it came with? do i need to turn those 2 things on if im gonna be running a MP10?

Yes, use the black pads, they help prevent microbubbles if your water level gets too low.

For the InTank, just push the basket all the way forward, and slide the clip back so that it touches the back of the tank. Even without the clip the basket likely isn't going to move.

Those are the stock Accela pumps reside in the outside back chambers of the tank. They are connected to the "returns" in the display. I suggest running BOTH of the stock pumps full time as that's what will push water through your filtration back compartment. The MP10 is just used for additional circulation in the display tank.
 
Can anyone tell me how to get rid of all the microbubbles in the tank from the HOB-1? I have the blk pad put in place where the skimmer exit pipe comes out and it helps a little but there has been quite a bit. Any suggestions?
 
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