ange062
New member
Did you remove the magnet to get place the Tunze in the center chamber?
Can you fit any mechanical sponge under the output?
My JBJ.
Wow, looks like your tank is killin it!! Got any more pics and/or an FTS? :bounce3:
JBJ 28 Gallon Nano Owners Club
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
Wow, looks like your tank is killin it!! Got any more pics and/or an FTS? :bounce3:
smtank
New member
Actually it only appears that way in the picture. When I get home of work I will post a few more. I have had this tank for 5 years and it's gone through 4 total over hauls. The corals in that image I have had for years so they are large colonies.
Thank you for the compliment.
Thank you for the compliment.
Krazie4Acans
New member
I made some mods to my Stock LED pro hood and added more LEDs and am in the process of making the stock whites dimmable. Is anyone else interested in knowing what I did so they can do it to theirs?
I haven't finished it all yet but the new LEDs are in (5 blue, 5 Royal blue, 2 UV all 3watt) and mounted to the stock heatsync and are dimmable. I haven't finished the dimming control for the stock whites yet but the parts are ordered. I also haven't finished modding the hood to add the additional fan that I want in there for some guaranteed cooling of the new additions.
I am taking pictures of the whole process and can post them if anyone is interested. Krazie :jester:
I haven't finished it all yet but the new LEDs are in (5 blue, 5 Royal blue, 2 UV all 3watt) and mounted to the stock heatsync and are dimmable. I haven't finished the dimming control for the stock whites yet but the parts are ordered. I also haven't finished modding the hood to add the additional fan that I want in there for some guaranteed cooling of the new additions.
I am taking pictures of the whole process and can post them if anyone is interested. Krazie :jester:
ange062
New member
Actually it only appears that way in the picture. When I get home of work I will post a few more. I have had this tank for 5 years and it's gone through 4 total over hauls. The corals in that image I have had for years so they are large colonies.
Thank you for the compliment.
WOW, looks like an amazing and colorful collection of mature SPS in there, I'd definitely like more info on your tank (lights, filtration, etc etc). Do you have a build thread?
PietschBR
New member
Please do! I am very much interested!
smtank
New member
No I have no build thread but might start one when things look the way I want.
Long story short: This tank had the fuge, the Tunze in the fuge, ATO and a chiller. I was going to sell the tank approx 3 years ago and sold off all the equipment. The tank did not sell, so I restarted it without the equipment listed above, about 2.5 yrs ago.
Currently running without anything but water changes bi-monthly, dosing of Two fish parts A/B and top off with kalk, yup not very exciting.
I have an older B/W clown and a geriatric goby.
Lighting is the HQI, with Phoenix bulb I change every 6 months.
ange062
New member
No I have no build thread but might start one when things look the way I want.
Long story short: This tank had the fuge, the Tunze in the fuge, ATO and a chiller. I was going to sell the tank approx 3 years ago and sold off all the equipment. The tank did not sell, so I restarted it without the equipment listed above, about 2.5 yrs ago.
Currently running without anything but water changes bi-monthly, dosing of Two fish parts A/B and top off with kalk, yup not very exciting.
I have an older B/W clown and a geriatric goby.
Lighting is the HQI, with Phoenix bulb I change every 6 months.
Wow, I'm impressed! You are getting great results out of a very low-tech setup, which is always impressive.
And the point of a build thread is to show progress as you journey towards accomplishing your end goal, so I hope to see you start one soon cause I'd definitely like to see more details on the tank and have an easy place to track progress.
pleuralplexus
New member
And the point of a build thread is to show progress as you journey towards accomplishing your end goal, so I hope to see you start one soon cause I'd definitely like to see more details on the tank and have an easy place to track progress. [/QUOTE]
I agree. Build thread please
[/QUOTE]I agree. Build thread please
Can you give details on feeding; fish and corals and entire system?
Also, what salt mix for your bimonthly water changes?
smtank
New member
And the point of a build thread is to show progress as you journey towards accomplishing your end goal, so I hope to see you start one soon cause I'd definitely like to see more details on the tank and have an easy place to track progress.
I agree. Build thread please[/QUOTE]
Giving it serious consideration.
I feed a mix of Rod's Frozen and quality pellets, I crush the pellets and I feed every 3 days.
Usually I use I/O, but in a pinch Reef Crystals.
This has been my routine for a couple years. There are tons of pods and the fish seem to keep them in check win/win.
It's really a very simple tank and low maintenance other than the dosing and top off.
Krazie4Acans
New member
I'll see if I can get some pictures loaded this week. It's been very busy and I've been working on a new nano as well. So I'll get them up soon.
Krazie :jester:
montecarlo97
New member
I'm trying to add more blue to my stock pro led hood also. I'm thinking about going with a Rapid led actinic supplement kit with 6 blues. Would appreciate pics or what you used and how you mounted it.
The problem I'm having is, if I get the kit, I won't be able to use the factory reflector. I would have to take it off to mount the LEDs to the factory heatsink.
montecarlo97
New member
Found a really great deal on another 28 led pro, so now the wife has one too.
Any updates on the pics or how you installed the addional LEDs? Thinking about going ahead and ordering the kit from rapid and trying to install it while its cycling.
I installed the Rapid kit about 2 weeks ago and installed it right away. My corals seem to finally like the lights... I went from PC Quad to LEDs.
The kit was pretty easy to install and it's super bright!! If you don't get dim able drivers I don't know how the corals could handle the amount of light coming from these...
I have mine topping out at about 60% at noon.
The kit was pretty easy to install and it's super bright!! If you don't get dim able drivers I don't know how the corals could handle the amount of light coming from these...
I have mine topping out at about 60% at noon.
Krazie4Acans
New member
I'm taking more pics tonight and then I will upload. I added my LED's to the stock heat sync and drilled holes in the reflector so that it looks like a stock hood. I did have to mod the top of the hood to add a PC fan to help remove the extra heat. The 4 stock fans work with stock lights but when you add 48watts more light there is more heat than they can remove and your tank will heat up.
I'll get the pictures tonight to end the suspense. lol Krazie:jester:
Krazie4Acans
New member
The suspense will continue. I didn't get time to take the pics last night and I have to replace a totalled car tonight so it looks like Wednesday I will get a chance to get some pics taken. Sorry for the delay. :fun2:
Krazie:jester:
Krazie:jester:
Krazie4Acans
New member
Ok. FINALLY got The rest of the project done with my LED pro hood retro. So here goes the long description.
So first was all the parts. I got the following parts to start the project. 1 Maxwellen 48Watt Dimmable LED driver (7-12 3watt LEDs), 12 - Bridgelux 3 watt LEDs on stars (6 - Royal Blue 4 - True blue 2 - UV LEDs), Arctic white heatsync paste, roll of 16 gauge wire, Solder and soldering station, PC power cord, drill and drill bits, Heat shrink tubing and heat shrink gun, time.
So those of you who have the LED Pro hood know that it is very bright and very white. This configuration grows corals quite quickly but doesn't do much for color.
So first I removed the hood and removed the splash guard from over the reflector and LEDs. I removed the reflector and decided on the LED placement. I decided that I wanted to leave the stock LEDs in place and work around them. So I chose spots around the perimeter. I took the reflector and used a sharpie marker to mark a dot where I thought each LED should go. I then found a drill bit the same size as the stock holes and drilled through the reflector. I hindsite what I should have done was place the LEDs and then mark their location on a piece of paper (the old charcoal rubbing Idea) so that I could drill them to match. The reason this should work better is because I ended up having to file a few of the stars down to get them to line up with the holes I had drilled because they were too close to the stock LEDs.
So here is the first picture showing my chosen layout with the LEDs already placed and the wires soldered.
All the LEDs on white plates are the stock ones. All the ones on small black stars are the new ones. The yellow wire should lead you on the path.
Here is a close up of one of the stars I had to file to get it aligned.
The stars simply "glued" in place with the arctic white heatsync paste and left to set over night. Then they are all soldered in series. I mounted the driver using Velcro into the channel where the stock dawn/dusk driver is mounted. The red and black wires go under the reflector and connect to the LEDs. The two white wires on the top go to the POT that is used for dimming and the two white wires on the bottom connect to the power cord.
Here is the picture showing the inside after drilling mounting and soldering everything inside the hood. The POT is mounted through the top of the hood where all of the wires come in at the bottom left of the picture. It hard to see in there but it's there.
After running the hood with the new LEDs for a couple of days it was clear that the stock fans were not keeping up with the extra heat coming from the new LEDs. So I started working on another fan to help move more air. I took a 120mm PC cooling fan and just laid it on top of the hood over the vent slots for a couple of weeks to see if that was enough. The tank still changed temp about 2.5 degrees from morning to evening but I was fine with that. So I started to make plans to mount the fan.
I removed the hood and pulled the entire heatsync out of the hood to decide where best to put the fan. As I was doing that I decided to test fit the heatsync into the hood with the fan to see how much clearance there was. There was none. In fact the heatsync was no where close to touching the posts that it mounts too. So plan B.
I looked online for a 120mm fan that was thinner to fit in the space. The problem with all the ones I found was that they were so thin that there were no ball bearing version (needed for good long life) and the CFM rating on them was less than half of the fan which I had tested. Plus the reviews on all of them said they were either noisy or didn't last. I decided to trim the tabs off of half of the fan I had been using and then allow it to stick out of the top of the hood a small amount as a compromise.
So first thing is modify the fan. Here's the pics.
Original Ball bearing 120mm fan
I used a dremel with a cut off wheel to cut the ears off the one side to get this.
and a side view.
Then I marked the top of the hood where the fan hole would be cut.
I used my trusty dremel with a cutoff wheel again to cut the hole.
More to come
So first was all the parts. I got the following parts to start the project. 1 Maxwellen 48Watt Dimmable LED driver (7-12 3watt LEDs), 12 - Bridgelux 3 watt LEDs on stars (6 - Royal Blue 4 - True blue 2 - UV LEDs), Arctic white heatsync paste, roll of 16 gauge wire, Solder and soldering station, PC power cord, drill and drill bits, Heat shrink tubing and heat shrink gun, time.
So those of you who have the LED Pro hood know that it is very bright and very white. This configuration grows corals quite quickly but doesn't do much for color.
So first I removed the hood and removed the splash guard from over the reflector and LEDs. I removed the reflector and decided on the LED placement. I decided that I wanted to leave the stock LEDs in place and work around them. So I chose spots around the perimeter. I took the reflector and used a sharpie marker to mark a dot where I thought each LED should go. I then found a drill bit the same size as the stock holes and drilled through the reflector. I hindsite what I should have done was place the LEDs and then mark their location on a piece of paper (the old charcoal rubbing Idea) so that I could drill them to match. The reason this should work better is because I ended up having to file a few of the stars down to get them to line up with the holes I had drilled because they were too close to the stock LEDs.
So here is the first picture showing my chosen layout with the LEDs already placed and the wires soldered.
All the LEDs on white plates are the stock ones. All the ones on small black stars are the new ones. The yellow wire should lead you on the path.
Here is a close up of one of the stars I had to file to get it aligned.
The stars simply "glued" in place with the arctic white heatsync paste and left to set over night. Then they are all soldered in series. I mounted the driver using Velcro into the channel where the stock dawn/dusk driver is mounted. The red and black wires go under the reflector and connect to the LEDs. The two white wires on the top go to the POT that is used for dimming and the two white wires on the bottom connect to the power cord.
Here is the picture showing the inside after drilling mounting and soldering everything inside the hood. The POT is mounted through the top of the hood where all of the wires come in at the bottom left of the picture. It hard to see in there but it's there.
After running the hood with the new LEDs for a couple of days it was clear that the stock fans were not keeping up with the extra heat coming from the new LEDs. So I started working on another fan to help move more air. I took a 120mm PC cooling fan and just laid it on top of the hood over the vent slots for a couple of weeks to see if that was enough. The tank still changed temp about 2.5 degrees from morning to evening but I was fine with that. So I started to make plans to mount the fan.
I removed the hood and pulled the entire heatsync out of the hood to decide where best to put the fan. As I was doing that I decided to test fit the heatsync into the hood with the fan to see how much clearance there was. There was none. In fact the heatsync was no where close to touching the posts that it mounts too. So plan B.
I looked online for a 120mm fan that was thinner to fit in the space. The problem with all the ones I found was that they were so thin that there were no ball bearing version (needed for good long life) and the CFM rating on them was less than half of the fan which I had tested. Plus the reviews on all of them said they were either noisy or didn't last. I decided to trim the tabs off of half of the fan I had been using and then allow it to stick out of the top of the hood a small amount as a compromise.
So first thing is modify the fan. Here's the pics.
Original Ball bearing 120mm fan
I used a dremel with a cut off wheel to cut the ears off the one side to get this.
and a side view.
Then I marked the top of the hood where the fan hole would be cut.
I used my trusty dremel with a cutoff wheel again to cut the hole.
More to come
Krazie4Acans
New member
Continued:
Heres the fan fitted in the new hole.
Then I had to flip it over and remove the heatsync to route the wires and connect the power. Here is the inside with the fan in the hole and the wires run to the inside.
Here is the heatsync back in place and the wires being soldered and heatshrink tubing applied.
Here is a picture showing the cord side of the hood. The powercord for the new LEDs is the PC powercord at the bottom right of the picture with no grommet. I just drilled the hole just slightly smaller than the cord and forced it through the hole to create a seal. The power for the fan goes through the grommet on the top right along with the moon light LED wire that was already there.
Here is the fan mounted with the grill on top ready to go back on the tank. I will be replacing the metal grill with the black plastic one I ordered from Amazon as soon as it gets here.
So here are the pictures of the new LEDs on and working. Let me know what you think.
Moonlights only
Moonlights and Dawn/Dusk only
Moonlights, dawn/dusk, and new lights dimmed
Moonlights, dawn/dusk, and new lights full brightness
Hope that gives you guys some ideas! Enjoy Krazie:jester:
Heres the fan fitted in the new hole.
Then I had to flip it over and remove the heatsync to route the wires and connect the power. Here is the inside with the fan in the hole and the wires run to the inside.
Here is the heatsync back in place and the wires being soldered and heatshrink tubing applied.
Here is a picture showing the cord side of the hood. The powercord for the new LEDs is the PC powercord at the bottom right of the picture with no grommet. I just drilled the hole just slightly smaller than the cord and forced it through the hole to create a seal. The power for the fan goes through the grommet on the top right along with the moon light LED wire that was already there.
Here is the fan mounted with the grill on top ready to go back on the tank. I will be replacing the metal grill with the black plastic one I ordered from Amazon as soon as it gets here.
So here are the pictures of the new LEDs on and working. Let me know what you think.
Moonlights only
Moonlights and Dawn/Dusk only
Moonlights, dawn/dusk, and new lights dimmed
Moonlights, dawn/dusk, and new lights full brightness
Hope that gives you guys some ideas! Enjoy Krazie:jester:
montecarlo97
New member
Very interesting, I like it.
Do you think if I went with just 8-9 LEDs and left the driver out of the hood I would still need to add a fan?
At first I was gonna just try and switch out 8 of the stock white LEDs with 6 blue and 2 UV but don't if the stock driver would handle it, or how it would effect my corals.
Do you think if I went with just 8-9 LEDs and left the driver out of the hood I would still need to add a fan?
At first I was gonna just try and switch out 8 of the stock white LEDs with 6 blue and 2 UV but don't if the stock driver would handle it, or how it would effect my corals.
