Jebao WP25 Information
- Thread starter Sacohen
- Start date
Sacohen
New member
I did the exact samething for the same reason.
I had a 40 in my 55, replaced it with 2 25s from the group buy.
Took then out & out the 40 back in because it was a softer, wider flow.
I'm thinking of adding a 25 to the 40 on an anti-sync to see what it's like.
frenchie
New member
i ordered my 2 wp25 on wednesday morning and had them by friday afternoon by UPS. I ordered mine through fishstreet and shipping was around 40 bucks to st. louis. Package was in excellent shape and both run great even bought extra light sensors. So far everything great for 70 dollar controllable powerhead.
Ron Reefman
Active member
Well, my WP25's are scheduled to show up today and I'm going to be doing the same thing you guys did initially, pulling a WP40 from my 180g DT and installing 2 WP25's. I'm also putting a WP25 in my 70g anemone tank and my 55g local/QT. I'll let you know what I think after I've run them for a few days.
Anybody have any ideas on how to open up the WP25 flow pattern? Since I have a couple of 'spares' I'm willing to try some inovations and I'm open to ideas and suggestions to try.
Hmm a wide flow wp 25 would be a sweet option!
ganjero
saiperchémibatteilcorazon
Ron,
The only way to open the flow would be to cut off the nozzle to the base. I remember people doing this kind of mods to old tunzes years ago. They also cut off every other bar on the grille to increase flow.
The only thing is I am not sure if these pumps use the nozzle to hold the impeller in place, maybe cutting off areas of the nozzle down to the base but leaving the part that holds the impeller intact and functional.
SimonSKL
New member
There isn't much that you can cut off at the nozzle of the WP25 without compromising the structural strength to hold the impeller in place. May be you can cut off two of the four cross bars.
The difference in the propeller diameter between WP40 and WP25 is quite drastic which explains why the flow pattern in WP40 is so much wider.
What about extending the slits to as close to the nozzle opening as you can. In this picture extending the slits or openings vertically up?
The difference in the propeller diameter between WP40 and WP25 is quite drastic which explains why the flow pattern in WP40 is so much wider.
What about extending the slits to as close to the nozzle opening as you can. In this picture extending the slits or openings vertically up?
ganjero
saiperchémibatteilcorazon
I think that might help increasing flow but not spreading it since that's where the water gets sucked in; I think you still need something to separate the inlet (the slits) from the outlet (the nozzle).
My suggestion was to cut off the red lined parts, leaving 4 areas to hold the cross bar that keeps the impeller in place and also a small circumference around the nozzle's base separating the slits from the outlet.
Last edited:
Ron Reefman
Active member
Great input guys. You're getting my creative juices flowing. It's almost 4pm, where is UPS? :lmao:
I like ganjero's idea of cutting out some of the side of the nozzle. That could work.
I'm thinking of adding something onto the nozzle. Maybe a cone attached at the center. Or a bigger cone (diameter, not length) and some small disk attached to the center of the nozzle and close to the base of the cone. Any thoughts? :fun4:
I like ganjero's idea of cutting out some of the side of the nozzle. That could work.
I'm thinking of adding something onto the nozzle. Maybe a cone attached at the center. Or a bigger cone (diameter, not length) and some small disk attached to the center of the nozzle and close to the base of the cone. Any thoughts? :fun4:
ganjero
saiperchémibatteilcorazon
That sounds better but do you mean cut two slots (side only) all the way out to the end of the nozzle and then push that piece out with the heating gun? cutting a total of 4 pieces and 8 slots? leaving the cross bar areas intact. is that correct? just like a flower opening, that way the flow is wider but still somehow directional.
SimonSKL
New member
Well, may be I will try to show it in SketchUp but I can't draw the flaps pushed out. In this drawing the 4 darker rectangles are the pieces that you want to cut. But you only cut 3 sides of each rectangle (leave the back side intact). Then you use a heat gun to push the piece out with the back side still attached to the housing. Make sense?
Ron Reefman
Active member
Simon, I understand exactly what you are saying and I like the idea. But how about taking the flaps all the way to the end of the nozzle (just 2 cuts) and heat gun them into the flower idea? And what do you guys think about the cutout flap, flat and bent out at the base, or curled out (more like Simon's first drawing?
goofyreefer
Member
I'd be curious if this mod would work.... wish I/we could get some extra covers to experiment on.
ganjero
saiperchémibatteilcorazon
IMO I dont think just holes will do it, I think it has to be big enough or the higher flow coming out the front will just suck water in from the holes.
Ron,
That is what I was suggesting (That why I said opening flower) but I think it might look cleaner and more structural stable the way Simon hast it.
It would be nice if both ways could be tested.
