Jebao WP25 Information

I would definitely pick one of these up but as mentionecaseove the lack of a case is a real deal breaker for me. If this thing is anywhere near the tank I can't imagine it not getting water damage. I also don't see the ability to put the pumps very far apart as the cords on these things and the pumps aren't very long.

That being said, it's a pretty awesome build. If there is ever a version two of this thing I'm all over it. Very we'll done.

you know a plastic case can be bought and with a little know how you can make one yourself.

check the arduino websites for projects. im sure that people have a source for a case that will work perfect for these.
 
I would definitely pick one of these up but as mentioned above the lack of a case is a real deal breaker for me. If this thing is anywhere near the tank I can't imagine it not getting water damage. I also don't see the ability to put the pumps very far apart as the cords on these things and the pumps aren't very long.

That being said, it's a pretty awesome build. If there is ever a version two of this thing I'm all over it. Very we'll done.

You can probably just go to the container store and get a little acrylic container for it. Drill a big hole and you're done.
 
Why would you want to connect a controller to another controller?

The point of this device is to give people who don't have an Apex or Reef Angel the ability to control 2 pumps at the same time.

If you have an Apex, why don't you connect the 2 pumps to it and let it control them for you?:confused:
 
To anyone that's done Jimmy's mod on the led dimmer. Is it an issue if the sensor light turns on when the dimmer is down fairly low? Am I damaging the controller when this happens or does it not matter how low I keep it with this mod?
 
I would definitely pick one of these up but as mentioned above the lack of a case is a real deal breaker for me. If this thing is anywhere near the tank I can't imagine it not getting water damage. I also don't see the ability to put the pumps very far apart as the cords on these things and the pumps aren't very long.

That being said, it's a pretty awesome build. If there is ever a version two of this thing I'm all over it. Very we'll done.

Get a project box from radio shack and cut out the areas that you don't need.
 
Joejvj, can your device be connected to an Apex?

aren't people controlling them with their apex already using the vdm? I believe that if you have the apex and module then there's no need for anything else. you'll be able do have it do whatever you want simply by programming it through the apex.
 
Anyone had an issue with the wp25 being full blast after a power outage? My power went out for a few hours and when I came home my sand was pushed up ti the back of the tank. I normally have it on w1 s3 and I came home and it was on highest setting.
 
To anyone that's done Jimmy's mod on the led dimmer. Is it an issue if the sensor light turns on when the dimmer is down fairly low? Am I damaging the controller when this happens or does it not matter how low I keep it with this mod?

nope. that particular led is somehow attached to the power output indicating that power to the pumps are low. without the mod this was a set value, but because the power can be varied the led can receive voltage just at its forward voltage requirement thus flickering the light. it may eventually stop working but that's not a concern unless you like the amber flicker.
 
aren't people controlling them with their apex already using the vdm? I believe that if you have the apex and module then there's no need for anything else. you'll be able do have it do whatever you want simply by programming it through the apex.

Yes people are controlling it on the Apex.

I have posted the walk thru that I found on a NY reef club forum several time.

Here it is again.

This is not my work someone else created it, I'm just re-posting it for others to use.

For Neptune Apex:

You will need:

A Reef Angel Jebao Cable. That's it. No need for the Jebao controller box anymore.
------
or

0-10v analog input PWM module:
Search ebay for LED DIMMER PWM 10 A.12VDC-24 VDC; POT. or 0-10V control
-----------------
Cat5e ethernet cord

Wire nuts
or
Solder and heat shrink tubing

(optional) Solid core wires (or wires that can handle up to 6A) stevesleds.com has some.

Directions:

Unscrew the controller casing

P2190005_zps108350d0.jpg


24- is blue
24+ is reddish brown
VA is green yellow and remains untouched

Cut the blue and red wire about halfway down, so you have enough wire connected to the controller still, and some down the cord to the pump. You can also desolder the wires from the 24+ and 24- points, but this is more difficult.

Connect solid core wire to extend the wire length with wire nuts, solder, or some way to connect the wires securely. This makes it easier to work with.

The 0-10v PWM module terminals look like this -+ +-

The first left side -(blue) and +(red) go to the pump wires

The next right side +(red) -(blue) are the ones connected to the controller internals 24+ and 24- points

For the wire to connect to the apex VDM ports, you can buy the Neptune cable ~$15, or do the following.

Cut one end off a Cat 5e ethernet cord.

Keep the following wires:
orange/white wire (positive) - orange wire (negative)
blue/white wire (positive) - green wire (negative)

When plugged into the first VDM port, blue/white wire, green wire is V1, oranges are V2
Second port, blue white green is V3, oranges V4

On the 0-10v module for V1, connect blue/white to + on 0-10v control input terminal , green to - control.

Put the controller back together in a project box, do a really good job with electrical tape taping the loose box together, or fit it all inside somehow and screw back together.

Create profiles to control the pump. The original controller mode are kept, so you can use the Apex to set intensity.

The easiest profiles are ramping profiles throughout the day, like this:

Outlet - Base_Var1 (for V1)

Set PM-Else
If Time 07:00 to 10:00 Then AM-Else
If Time 10:01 to 21:00 Then Day-Else
If Time 21:01 to 23:00 Then PM-Else
If FeedA 000 Then Feed

(feed would be a profile to allow the feed mode)

Profile name: AM-Else

Control type: Ramp

Ramp time (minutes): 1

Start Intensity: 60
End Intensity: 60

(this makes the pump run at 60% power, but if you use the ELSE mode on the controller, it simulates reef crest mode on a vortech, but at 60% overall power)

A midday profile can be made to use a higher intensity, and the PM one can use a lower one.

This barely touches on what can be programmed. If you set the pump on H1 (full power), you can create your own wave mode, like this (borrowed from Kenargo's Tunze profiles)

Profile name: Day Rt
Type: pump
Minimum Intensity: 30
Maximum Intensity: 100
Sync: Enabled
Divide-by 10: Enabled
Initial off time: 4
On time: 8
Off time: 0

Profile name: Day Lt
Type: pump
Minimum Intensity: 30
Maximum Intensity: 100
Sync: Enabled
Divide-by 10: Enabled
Initial off time: 0
On time: 8
Off time: 4

(This creates a huge syncronized wave between two pumps)

You can also use the Weather profiles to control the pump. The Vortech profiles do not work.

Here is another one I found on how to wire the RA cables to the RJ-45 connector.

I have included some photos of a RA cable converted to the Apex RJ-45 connector. Hope this helps.

I use two WP-40 pumps in my 220 gal tank.

My profiles use
9/10ths of a second per side to get a nice even wave in a 6ft long tank.

Click image for larger version

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that's because you can't truly program random. the best you can do is set a long sequence and have it repeat itself. the arduino will fall under that constraint as well.

While it is true that computers use psuedo-random number generator algorithms, the repeat time is too long to make a difference. For example, the arduino uses a 32-bit random generator, so If the JBWave was set to generate a random pattern every second, it would take roughly 136 years to repeat.
 
Jimmy or anyone else, my feed mode won't work when I have the dimmer low after the mod. Is that normal do you know? Not that big a deal, just curious.
 
not sure if this happened to anyone else. one my wp25 came with a power supply that said ecotech and it looks like the power supply from my mp10. the other wp25 power supply looks like a generic wall wart.
 
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