I wonder how expensive it would be to build or have a canopy built. There are 6x24w 24" T5 Icecap retros on reefgeek for $419 a piece, with bulbs. So $900 is pretty much my limit for lighting. Now if I can have someone build me a cheap canopy for under $200, I dont think thatd be too bad.
Joe's 190g 60x36x20 SLOW Mixed Reef Build.......
- Thread starter Jflip2002
- Start date
mcliffy2
New member
Joe - check out this pic of lumenarcs on an open-top tank, I think it can look pretty good if done right:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1364667
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1364667
Crypsis
yes
Hi! Just read the whole thing. This sites the reason I won't be getting a 4.0 this semester. 
I like the shape of your tank. I'm planning a similar tank but out of glass. I read about your undrilled overflow box and was thinking, if you could fit a tunze in there you could easily turn it into a built in wave box.
I would not recommend Giesemann. I have a couple of their 250w Nova II pendants that I'm trying to have fixed because of how loud they are. I've been waiting for a month or two now and needless to say I am less than impressed with their customer service. I will not buy Giesemann again. Good luck with your build.
Merlin
I like the shape of your tank. I'm planning a similar tank but out of glass. I read about your undrilled overflow box and was thinking, if you could fit a tunze in there you could easily turn it into a built in wave box.I would not recommend Giesemann. I have a couple of their 250w Nova II pendants that I'm trying to have fixed because of how loud they are. I've been waiting for a month or two now and needless to say I am less than impressed with their customer service. I will not buy Giesemann again. Good luck with your build.
Merlin
Hey Cliffy, I figured I could integrate the reflectors nicely. My concern was integrating the Reflectors, with the T5 retros. I was thinking of setting up the two Lumenarcs or lumenmax reflectors, like the one you should. But then riveting a small metal extension in the front of the fixture, to fit 1 T5, and 1 in the rear.
I wouldnt mind going pure MH, but it just bothers me that you can only have the halides on 8 hours a day, meaning your tank is dark for the other 16 hours. Thats the reason I needed my T5s. I was thinking of even using cheap lights from Walmart or costco, so it doesnt get any beneficial photo period, but it still LOOKS lit.
Now Im back ot my skimmer dilemma. Im between the used ATI Bubble master 200 for $400, and the Octopus 250 pro for $500.
I wouldnt mind going pure MH, but it just bothers me that you can only have the halides on 8 hours a day, meaning your tank is dark for the other 16 hours. Thats the reason I needed my T5s. I was thinking of even using cheap lights from Walmart or costco, so it doesnt get any beneficial photo period, but it still LOOKS lit.
Now Im back ot my skimmer dilemma. Im between the used ATI Bubble master 200 for $400, and the Octopus 250 pro for $500.
mcliffy2
New member
I want to say the octo pro can handle a bigger bioload, but I have no way of really knowing...did you see what the skimmer geeks over in the equipment forum have to say?
As for the lighting I think your idea of two lumenarcs (definitely go this route over lumenmax) with a couple T5s supplementing is good. I think you could do it with a couple 24" T5 units but I think it would be really expensive....Realistically I think you'd need a couple 10-bulb units (to get the equivalent 10 4 ft. bulbs), so youd have 20 bulbs to replace which is about $400 every 9 months. Even if you went with the 8-bulb, thats still 16 bulbs and over $300 for bulbs....I love T5s and want to figure out a way to make them work for you tho...I'll keep brainstorming....did you PM doug about the brace? It seems like a 20" high tank shouldnt need all that much bracing...
As for the lighting I think your idea of two lumenarcs (definitely go this route over lumenmax) with a couple T5s supplementing is good. I think you could do it with a couple 24" T5 units but I think it would be really expensive....Realistically I think you'd need a couple 10-bulb units (to get the equivalent 10 4 ft. bulbs), so youd have 20 bulbs to replace which is about $400 every 9 months. Even if you went with the 8-bulb, thats still 16 bulbs and over $300 for bulbs....I love T5s and want to figure out a way to make them work for you tho...I'll keep brainstorming....did you PM doug about the brace? It seems like a 20" high tank shouldnt need all that much bracing...
He do not touch the brace at all. I dont want a whole tank of T5s anymore necessarily. I just want some sort of T5 or VHO bulbs to keep the tank at least LOOKING lit while the MH are off.
Curious what makes the lumenarcs so much better than lumenmaxs anyhow. Lumenmax is by SLS, and they always seem to have good stuff.
Curious what makes the lumenarcs so much better than lumenmaxs anyhow. Lumenmax is by SLS, and they always seem to have good stuff.
mcliffy2
New member
For your application especially, you want a wide spread. The Lumenmax are 11x15 and the Lumenarcs are 19.5x19.5, i.e. they are going to give you a much wider spread of light. Also, I'm not sure the specifics of how they do it, but the light geeks have measured par from reflectors and found the lumenarc puts out more PAR.
Well, I figured out my current red slime outbreak in my 60g. A number of other members have had Cyano outbreaks after adding UCSB saltwater to their tank. I got the outbreak after this UCSB water, so that explains that.
Im kinda curious if bringing this rock (which will be cooked) will bring the cyano with it to the new 190g? I plan on adding redslime remover to the tank as soon as its done cycling. Hopefully that wont present any problems.
And my list of goods from saltysupply.com:
(2) Lumenarc III reflectors
(1) PFO Dual 250w magnetic ballast
(2) Hamilton 250w 15k SE Bulbs
(1) Octopus pro 250 skimmer
I think thats it if IIRC.
Im kinda curious if bringing this rock (which will be cooked) will bring the cyano with it to the new 190g? I plan on adding redslime remover to the tank as soon as its done cycling. Hopefully that wont present any problems.
And my list of goods from saltysupply.com:
(2) Lumenarc III reflectors
(1) PFO Dual 250w magnetic ballast
(2) Hamilton 250w 15k SE Bulbs
(1) Octopus pro 250 skimmer
I think thats it if IIRC.
So my Tunze 6080s came in today. Theyre about what I expected, a lot more flow than my 6045s seem to be pushing out lol. Now I just need some magnet holders since these other brackets are a real POS lol.
Also on the way is the new RODI machine from melevsreef.com . It seemed solid and at a pretty decent price. So soon I can start cooking some rock!
Also on the way is the new RODI machine from melevsreef.com . It seemed solid and at a pretty decent price. So soon I can start cooking some rock!
No. Im still waiting for my RODI machine to arrive too! lol. I do have to drill the hole on the right side overflow. And also plug the two holes on it. The previous owner was using it was a little CLS type set up, with 2 outputs coming from it.
I figure now is the time to start the plumbing. I think when I get this 60g under my tank as the sump, instead of building a seperate compartment for the sand, Im going to use the 10g tank I have as a spar, and have fill that up with sand, using it as a sort of DSB. I will still have a refugium section in there also though.
I figure now is the time to start the plumbing. I think when I get this 60g under my tank as the sump, instead of building a seperate compartment for the sand, Im going to use the 10g tank I have as a spar, and have fill that up with sand, using it as a sort of DSB. I will still have a refugium section in there also though.
