Joe's 190g 60x36x20 SLOW Mixed Reef Build.......

Lol. Its great. If my tank could look 1/10th the greatness of that, I will be more than happy with it.

So I guess (2) 250w SE MHs it is. With the lumenarc reflectors. The reflectors are about 20"x20", which is the size of the 2 openings on the top of my tank.

Im really considering cutting out the top brace on the tank. Its about 12" wide, and it seems like its blocking tons of light, where the T5s will be.
 
so I was thinking, and mocking up my plumbing on top of my tank for the OM 8way. Itd be way too much tubing for my likings. I think Im just going to go with the 4way.

1&5 will be on the same port, blowing the same time as 4&8.
3&7 also will be on the same port, blowing the same time as 2&6.

That way theres less plumbing, and I can also use something larger like a Hammerhead pump. The hammerhead will also be teed off (In theory I guess) to run the spray bar. I used the RC reef calculator, and really the pump size wasnt making that much of a difference in my electric bill.

Now if I put this hammerhead to the spray bar, I dont want half of its flow going to waste on there. Is that the case, which would happen? If so, that plans out the window lol.
 
Think a hammerhead would be too much flow? I plan on keeping a total mixed reef. Im getting close to ordering some equipment.
 
I don't think you can have too much flow, as long as it's not direct flow. Have you considered Tunzes or Vortechs?
 
I would second tunzes or vortechs. Personally I went with vortechs. You can usually find them in the classified here for 350-375 (or reef specialty still has their 10% off I believe). Two of those will give you the same flow as a hammerhead/OM closed loop for about the same price, and use a lot less energy (35w each). Eventually I think you'll want 3-4 vortechs, but you could start out with 2.
 
so you really think just two vortechs to start would effectively replace a hammerhead? Im more for Tunze personally, so what about the two Tunze 6101s with the controller? I currently have 2 modded Tunze 6045s, which I'll be using. The cost of those things are ridiculous though. Almost $1000 for a couple powerheads and a controller. Id almost rather use the extra wattage, and save $700. Doing the reef calculator, it said its going to cost me under $100 a month to run the system anyways.

I woke up this morning thinking I could use the hammer head. I could skip the OM 4 way. Just loop the hammerhead to the ports above the tank like I listed, and also I could connect the hammerhead to a spray bar, and one PVC pipe in each other of the tank, coming up from the bottom, aiming up at around 45 degrees. That way there are no dead spots. Then with the money saved on the OM4way, I could get a Tunze Wavebox for the rear.
 
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My equipment shopping list....

Sequence ReeFlo Hammerhead Pump, 5800 GPH
Item Code: MM1158

ASM G-4+ Protein Skimmer w/ Sedra 9000 Pump
Item Code: AG1195

PFO 250 Watt Dual Metal Halide Ballast
Item Code: PF1612


(2) Sunlight Supply Reef Optix 1 Plus Horizontal Single Ended Mogul Based Pendant Reflector
Item Code: SL1211

4ft IceCap T5 4-Lamp Complete Retrofit Kit (with ballast and reflectors)
Item Code: IC1535

(2) D-D Giesemann Powerchrome Midday 54W 48 inch T5 High Output Fluorescent Lamp
Item Code: GL2125

(2) D-D Giesemann Powerchrome Pure Actinic 54W 48 inch T5 High Output Fluorescent Lamp
Item Code: GL2145

(2) 250 Watt 13000K Metal Halide Bulb - Megachrome Marine, Mogul Base
Item Code: MB6614

Danner Mag-Drive Supreme 9.5 950 GPH Water Pump
Item Code: DN1127

Total = $2939

Then I still have to get the OM4 way or the Tunze Wavebox, so that pushes it to $3400, without plumbing. This will take me a year to complete lol

Then if I go Vortechs, it'll probably delay it all another 4-6 months.
 
The advantage I see in a closed loop is if you don't want any powerheads visible in the tank. Other than that, I think Tunzes or Vortechs are the way to go.

True, up front cost is high, but if you're "OK" with seeing powerheads, less disadvantages, I think

Closed loop = more energy on pump, more chance for leaks due to more bulkheads
 
The money up front is what will kill me though. I would rather not see the powerheads for the most part too, really. But I do hate the thought of a bulkhead leaking over 100g onto my floor lol. I guess I have a couple months to decide what I will be choosing to do. I just cant justify spending the $1600 or so on 4 Tunzes and a controller. Especially when I can spend $400 on a Hammerhead.

A Tunze 6101 uses 36w of eletricity, times for is 144 watts and 12,000 GPH. While the hammerhead runs 350w, while only less than 6,000 GPH. It seems like a fair difference in wattage. But when I use the reef calculator on the home page, it still puts my tank cost at around $80 a month to run.

The Tunzes seem great for doubled the flow, and less than half the wattage. But boy that $1600 really really is close to impossible for me to cough up lol.
 
i have 2 CL powered by sequence 6000gph w/2 OM 4-ways, wish i could redo this and go all tunzes. no more plumbing, by the time you drill holes, bulkhead, unions, ball valves and list goes on the cost gets out of hand. but everyone have their .02
 
good point, Bart. Plumbing costs add up.

JFlip, you might want to PM Invincible569. He originally had a closed loop, and then added Tunzes. He's taken his CL offline. He may be able to give you more insight as to what he liked/disliked about the CL.
 
So here are some of the rocks I cemented together. This is half of my tank. The other half of rocks will come from my 60g cube I have right now. That will complete the other half. I will probably move them around so I can get a canyon look going.

001-6.jpg


003-6.jpg


004-2.jpg


Think I can safely cut that brace off the center of the tank? I think itd be blocking a bunch of light...
 
How thick's your acrylic?
If your acrylic is on the thinner side, perhaps cut out part of the middle brace, leaving a thinner middle brace? At least it's still holding the front and back together.
 
The acrylic is like 1" thick. And no it wont be polished, its crystal clear, without water in it. Everything you see that looks like its on the front pane is either on the floor of the tank, or the backing of the tank. The back was covered with coraline. I hand polished the front with haze away, some stuff the guys use to detail new BMWs at the shop. Im happy with it. And also, keep in mind, the tank is totally empty right now.

Now could I fill my tank with tap water right now, to start the curing of the cement?
 
And I decided I will be starting with the two Tunze 6101s, and using my Tunze 6045s I have now. I will eventually, probably next year, add two more 6101s.
 
so no more closed loop?

That's very thick acrylic for a 20" tall tank! if it's really 1", you should be able to cut out that middle brace w/o issue.
 
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