Join me for a strange one...

Hot glue could work... The plastic should be safe and, in some cases, removable. It could hold the pieces in place until the silicone cures in 24hrs.
 
Thanks for the thoughts folks.

Tape will not work. The surrounding textured surfaces are so porous that the tape only barely considers sticking and in some cases doesn't at all. The surface is also sort of dusty and you all know how well tape sticks to dirt.

The hot melt solution is kind of hard since where I'd glue is where the silicone would best be applied. If just the hot melt glue would work then I'd use it. It would be very convenient. Anyone hot melt glued anything in a tank?

I'll ask that question in its own thread as someone not following this thread might know.

Oh and is hydraulic cement really super major sticky? Could you stick some on a wall and then stick something the weight, size, and shape of an apple on it and walk away?
 
Here is an idea. Go to the hobby store and get some super glue accelerant, and medium body super glue. Put a glob of silicon in the central part of the object, or on the crack, but leave enough dry so that you have a couple of dry contact points. squeeze a bit of glue on each point of connection and hit with the accelerant. Also, wiping the back of the piece with a damp sponge will help with the dust, and silicon adhesion. The accelerant will instantly cure the super glue, so as long as there is a film connecting the two it will hold while the silicone cures.
 
Well. I went back by the pottery shop and saw that the last, 're-placement', plate and all the Crack Critters had been successfully fired but the other two plates still sat in an otherwise empty kiln. I asked my buddy when he was going to fire them. He looked at me and said, "they're fired!", I asked if he fired that huge kiln just for my plates and he told me, no, he'd filled it, fired it, and emptied it, without touching my stuff. I was pleasantly surprised!

So I brought it all home.



And





INSTALLED IT!!! :fun2:


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I'm very pleased!

I still have to do gap suppression. I have about 100 pieces I made to do it.


Whadah'yall think?

love the flashlights i mean your moonlights. lol

i bet you'll be glad with this huge project is done!!
 
would it be too much of a hassle to place the tank on it's back until the silicone cures? i know you already have it plumbed, but thought i would ask anyway lol
 
Just sat here on a Sunday afternoon reading the thread up to this point. Completely off the charts build. Now to follow along as it progresses. I am intrigued by the shapes you put on the rock wall. Not sure I see the "naturalness" of it, but there is much to do, much coral to place and much coralline to grow so...............I guess we will see how it goes.
 
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noahm; Thanks for the suggestion. I'll go look for the accelerant. Your method might still be a problem because the surface I'm gluing to is.. How to describe? Think of putting 5 glass bottles in a bag and smashing them with a mallet just until most the pieces are an inch. Pour them on the floor. And then bring in a piece the size and general shape of a coffee mug. Now, not being able to look from the sides, - where are the contact points? That's my dilemma and why I'm looking for a void filling tacky goo that I can apply in the "likely areas of contact" and the adhesive will conform to the surfaces enough to hold.

IMM3DOORSDOWN; I was blown away by the effectiveness of those little LED flashlights. They were pretty spectacular.

As for done.. I am liking the build aspect a lot. It's quite the chase. So I'm not sure I'm looking forward to the completion. :)


rick rottet; That tank can not be placed on its back. Just moving it will cause it to spring more leaks. It weighs about 500lbs now. The stand won't accept it on it's side. I would have to cut all the plumbing.. It would be much easier to have some gooey glue.

hmello@bermexin; I considered the naturalness aspect you bring up. I thought it might be a problem but after seeing it up, it's not. Every one of the shapes are organic. There are no man-made straight lines or accurate geometries. I could imagine seeing any of it while diving. Indeed I have seen many of the representative shapes while snorkeling. As corals grow over it, it should all become more interesting yet. I think it's far more interesting than some of the mass SPS coral ceramics I've seen that just become an invisible wall of sameness. Everyone who's walked up to it has actually stood mouth agape staring in amazement. So it seems to be a hit so far.
 
You might be able to support them with a strong fishing line, as long as you have something above the tank to support it and the pieces aren't too flat. I've seen it done on ChingChai's tanks.
 
There must be some sort of fast-curing goopy epoxy, that once you mix it gives you like a minute. So it would take an afternoon doing them one at a time but it would work...

Or put a chewing gum sized peice of epoxy stick on the back surrounded by silicone and stick it on with the epoxy then the silicone will eventually cure for a stronger hold.

I guess it's tough to imagine something gooey enough to squeeze out of any tube but also strong enough to not let go before it cures...
 
I wonder about 3M 5200? I don't know how sticky that stuff is or what any reef issues are with it.

Don't know, but Goecel Pro-flex will and would hold,dusty or not, but not sure about its safety either. MSDS

I think I would try it after reading the MSDS. It is just hydrocarbon polymer once the solvent evaps. It is basically like ultra thick silicone, but sticks to wet and dirty surfaces quite well. It would hold all but the biggest pieces without help imo. You can always use something like a section of pipe insulation to wedge some of the bigger pieces while they dry.

I think between the super glue/accelerant, the pro-flex, two-part plumbers epoxy, regular silicone, and some foam wedges, you could get everything up. This project is just so simple and straightforward isn't it?
 
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