Join me for a strange one...

assuming your tank is not going to be full to the brim?? can you drill some small holes at the top of the tank and hang the panels with zip-ties? or mount some acrylic loops on the rim of the tank to loop the zip-ties thru?
 
Nice to get back from the in-laws and see youre progress. The clay looks great. Will the panels be removable or installed permanently? If removable than maybe some small pieces of acrylic glued to the bottom for a track that the panels would rest in.

Dave
 
assuming your tank is not going to be full to the brim?? can you drill some small holes at the top of the tank and hang the panels with zip-ties? or mount some acrylic loops on the rim of the tank to loop the zip-ties thru?

"I thought hang the panels? Pffft ridiculous."

But the more I think about it the more sense it makes!

Thanks for the idea.
 
Nice to get back from the in-laws and see youre progress. The clay looks great. Will the panels be removable or installed permanently? If removable than maybe some small pieces of acrylic glued to the bottom for a track that the panels would rest in.

Dave


Thanks dzfish.

I was going to say permanent, but with the hanging idea... I guess I could go either way.
 
This build has so many unique items in it, I think it should be mandatory reading for all... Very interested in seeing further developments. Great work thus far, and special thanks for the volume of photos!
 
Not trying to rush you, just wondering how you were doing with the ceramic pieces. Have you tried anchoring them into the tank yet? Please give us an update when you get a chance.

Thanks, Dave
 
This will raise the hair on the back of many on RC, but, silicone will hold those panels in place for as long as you want it to... and probably longer. Before all the tank builders get their undies all bunched... I am NOT suggesting that silicone be used to build acrylic tanks.

I have a foam wall and rock structure built on egg crate siliconed to one of my acrylic tanks... It has been firmly attached and has not moved a micron totally submerged for over 2 years.

I also used silicone between my ZeroEdge tank and the stand... both are acrylic. Having read the pundants here on RC, my expectaions were that it would be the perfect gasket between the tank and the stand. I did that 4 years ago... when I sold the tank earlier this year... I had to move, and carry the tank and stand as a single unit. It would NOT release ( and trust me I tried pulling, twisting, carving, denatured alcohol ...) It was 3/4" acrylic and I was more afraid of breaking the tank then having a thin layer of silicone release.

Until I went 100% acrylic I built every sump out of a glass tank and siliconed the acrylic baffles. They have never broken free, they have never slipped ( and no they never swelled and broke the glass). These are all still in operation in other reefers homes.

My point is.... Silicone will hold that ceramic to your acrlic tank... I always used GE, but if you want to go a step higher, RTV108.
 
Not trying to rush you, just wondering how you were doing with the ceramic pieces. Have you tried anchoring them into the tank yet? Please give us an update when you get a chance.

Thanks, Dave

Hi dzfish.

I am still slugging along. Of course it's all taking longer than I expected. I've made all the remaining plates - 5 more - to cover the front face of the overflow (2), and (3) to cover the left side wall. I will leave the right side wall uncovered to prevent the 'looking into a box' situation.

I've also made four cylinder like shapes to stack up over the left suction strainer.

They're all drying so they can be fired without exploding. And since it's raining, cold, and they all have thick cross sections that process is taking an annoyingly long time.

As for the right eductor manifold, my first attempt at a large random stack-up surround was an utter failure. It all collapsed during a 30 minute running battle with it, me, and the blow torch. So I have two enormous seeded slabs pre-drying a little since yesterday and I will attempt it again tonight. Wish me luck - I need it! :p

****************************************

heb; Wow. You guys are sending me back and forth.. I feel like a pin pong ball. ;)

I was always going to silicone it, believing that silicone would do the trick. Then changed to drilling and tiewraps; hanging them. The drilling is nerve wracking and slow. If I'd known earlier, I could've made the holes in the wet clay ~ 2 seconds apiece and no chance of breaking anything. Now I've drilled 2 holes and they took five minutes each - I need 40!! Three hours of pure drilling madness.

I told my ceramics guy and he said, "That's too long", picked up his drill and punched thru a bowl he had in about 5 seconds. So I was planning to try a new masonry bit. Mine are exceptionally high quality but has been used a bit on old concrete.

But now I'm allowed to consider silicone again..
qp2kcm.gif


I have 8 tubes of the best stuff for building large glass tanks, the adhesive type. (forget which)

Trade offs, trade offs, trade offs..
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Pros:
Silicone would avoid me having to drill 38 more holes in ceramic.

Silicone would avoid me having to drill 10 holes in the top acrylic deck of the tank to hang the plate groups.

Silicone would avoid the possibility of salt creep out of the aforementioned 10 deck holes.

Silicone would would avoid me having to worry about tiewrap failure in a few years.

There is some question in my mind that hanging plates might sway under water flowing conditions causing them to work the ties and causing future coral problems with possibly their bases being in motion across two plates. Silicone would avoid this.

Cons:
Will the silicone hold for 10 years?

How can I deal with the real and perplexing problem of holding the plates in place while the cure occurs.

What if this tank turns out being defective again, necessitating complete replacement and the plates are siliconed in - could I somehow remove them without destroying them all? (Piano wire garrotes?)

Will single horizontal beads allow enough motion to prevent the tank bowing from breaking the plates during the fill?

Decisions, decisions.

Anyway heb, thanks for that info which fits with my experience and actually allows the option.
 
Cons:
Will the silicone hold for 10 years?

How can I deal with the real and perplexing problem of holding the plates in place while the cure occurs.

What if this tank turns out being defective again, necessitating complete replacement and the plates are siliconed in - could I somehow remove them without destroying them all? (Piano wire garrotes?)

Will single horizontal beads allow enough motion to prevent the tank bowing from breaking the plates during the fill?

Decisions, decisions.

Anyway heb, thanks for that info which fits with my experience and actually allows the option.

Not sure about 10 years, but the stress should really be pretty minimal except on the pieces with large protrusions. Use good thick beads and you may be fine. It would probably fail gradually, if ever, giving you time to formulate a fix.

Holding them in place could be accomplished with anything from couch cushions to some of those quick grip-type clamps reversed for spreading (Use a short clamp and blocks of wood to get the distance). Throw a tire inner tube in there on edge and fill it to just the right amount, rinse and repeat your way across. Just ideas. Those big yellow sponges in the tile/grout section make good pads for spreading load points so you don't crack anything.

I think if it was me, I might be willing to risk the silicone for this application
 
So I am reading this and I am wondering why not just make PVC pipe racks to hold the panels up. Build them so they have a leg on the bottom and go up in the air to support the plates. It would only hold the plates 1/2 from the back and then they could be removed if needed.

I personally have had life happen one to many times and don't like having permanent aquascape, plus what happens if you do need to get a new tank it would suck to try and get it off the back wall with out breaking the ceramic.
 
So I am reading this and I am wondering why not just make PVC pipe racks to hold the panels up. Build them so they have a leg on the bottom and go up in the air to support the plates. It would only hold the plates 1/2 from the back and then they could be removed if needed.

I personally have had life happen one to many times and don't like having permanent aquascape, plus what happens if you do need to get a new tank it would suck to try and get it off the back wall with out breaking the ceramic.

Thanks noahm. If I go that way that's what I'll do.

So... Nathan. How do you see me anchoring these things to the pipe? They weigh on average about 10lbs each. So the far back rack would weigh about 100lbs. I'm wondering if 1/2" PVC is up to that.
 
Kcress... It may have been mentioned already, and maybe not possible because of the thickness of your acrylic (is it 1"?). But what about Epoxy sealed neodium magnets on the inside and a matched magnet on the outside back wall. I have used these on my stand panels with great success, they are made of 1/2" oak and hang with two magnets. Each magnet has a pulling force of 30 Lbs. You could seal them in epoxy, and then epoxy the inner magnets to the back of the panels where they curve. I would say you would be safe with two mounting points on each panel. Should the day come that you want to remove the panels, just pull the outside magnets off.

The magnets I bought are 1/2" thick and 1" round.
 
!!!! That! Is a novel approach.. The walls are 3/4". How thick are these magnets? I have some space limitations on the back.

Also can you suggest a place to buy them?
 
try here. Lots of shapes and sizes. Look at the neo epoxy coated

Link

I would be tempted to embed them in something even though they are coated. It is not a thick coat and can chip.
 
Out of all the ideas suggested seems to be a fair idea. The bars have 87 lbs of pulling force and you could use those and dip in 2-3 layers of epoxy to ensure no rust leaks.
 
I'll be testing some magnets soon.

Still waiting for kiln time. Christmas is edging me out of the kilns. {sigh}The last plates still haven't been fired.


Ok, plates aside I have to make Hides to hide my two large vertical standpipes. Here below is a failed attempt to cover the discharge side.

The discharge side presents additional issues over the return side. The discharge side will have bulky eductors all over it that have to have open spaces to allow the large flows to be launched around the tank.

This makes the hide really hard to make because it has to be a large diameter and it needs to be very open and yet we don't want to see the piping and fittings an what-all.

So I tried to slab roll some seeded clay and then form it into about 210 degree circles to be free standing - and stacking. It was really hard to even have the clay stay standing up while it dryed. I had to roll it onto canvass then let it dry a while but no too long then shape it and I still got structural cracks. I did it several times then ended up with these:

lreul1hmkh.jpg


I hated them. I couldn't put any texture other than the seeds on them as they are just too weak and flimsy even though they are a LOT of clay. Lack of any adornments made them look suspiciously man made..... I tossed them in the dumpster yesterday and started over using a totally different method.

Notice the garbanzo beans are all sprouted. LOL!
BTW this is the first thing I've ever seen that garbanzo beans are good for.



The return side can be much smaller in diameter. I was able to build what I wanted. Here are two of the four high stack for it. They are waiting for kiln time too.

auypq8klj8.jpg
 
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