Jumping the gun. 45g LED NPS build

As far as I remember Dave tested his and it easily held in mid 30's with the iceprobe - but I don't think he mentioned how long it took the water to cool down.
 
I have one in a 1 1/2gal reactor that food is slowly pumped out of, & temp stays in low 40s. I fill it with water I keep in home fridge, so it starts out in the mid-high 30's.
 
For some of you more experienced guys, I was talking to my LFS owner today and we were discussing food. What would you say is a good amount to start dosing in a light stocked 45gallon? I'm really trying to decide between buying the 16oz bottles, or the 32oz bottles of the reef nutrition trio that everyone seems to use. I still plan to add the FM dry stuff as well. Any suncorals or types will be hand fed krill/plankton as well.
Which would you get? 16oz/32oz?
 
Thanks for the info guys. 16oz a month is what y'all are inferring right?
Just checked the calculator. The 30 day was alot less than I thought. 2.4 to 11oz on some. Thanks Gresh.

I am at an absolute loss right now. I got some diamond encrusted bits off ebay to cut the external overflow. They apparently do not fit any tool in the English speaking world. I have tried several Dremels, a Rotozip with both collets, and several routers. The only thing I can get it to fit is my drill. But the drill does not provide a stable base to cut the glass.
 
I picked up the cut glass today as well as finished glue up the reactor. Hopefully the Ice Probe will be here tomorrow so I can start playing with that. Ill try to get the overflow glued up today, but no promises.

I'm still trying to figure out how to cut the overflow slot. It looks like I am just going to have to order another glass bit off ebay.

Also got the wood last night for the stand. Its at my buddies house for him to start on it when he can.
 
I got the Ice Probe in the mail the other day. I havent had any time to fool with it because of work. I think I am going to mount everything in the lid. I think that will be easier for cleaning. The lid is huge (6") tube so there is plenty of room. Ill post some pics Monday when I get to play with it.
 
I bought the stuff to put a MJ1200 on the top ala kalk reactor setup, but I ran across the Hanna 190's on small parts dot com for $71. Ill probably change plans and go that way. It seems a much easier setup and I wont have to drill more holes in the lid. All I will need is 3, ice probe, water in, food out.

I'm reading all I can on food and feeding. It seems best guess, full blown, food is going to be about $50 a month. Thats about what Zeo was costing me in my 135 reef. I plan to use the FM stuff, and all the feast's-oyster, phyto, and roti. I'm watching when Scott at AS maybe getting the reef pearls in soon. Id like to add that to the mix. I found a thread somewhere where the guy was using them with good results.
 
Awesome, that will save me a couple of bucks for shipping.

Well I am so happy. I went to Lowes to look at plumbing option for the reactor. I had to get a 1.25" hole saw as well. I went by the Rotozip stuff. I had always only seen 1/8 and 1/4 collets for the Rotozip. Well I just happen to see a 5/32" collet. I had never seen this before. I guess my Lowes was just out of them. So I snatch one up, run home and try it out. IT FITS THE DIAMOND EBAY BIT!!!! I was so happy. Now just got to build a guide for the cut and Ill probably be destroying a brand new $300 rimless tank on Tuesday!! And yes, I will take pics.
 
Got the bottom of the overflow box drilled. I was going to glue it up today. When I went to mock it up, 1 side is about 1/32" longer than the other. Hopefully today I will get the Rotozip back and be able to grind a little off. I plan to cut the slot for the overflow today as well. I look at Formica at Lowes for the top, and I just cant find any that I like. I want all black, but all they have is different Marble. I called a cabinet place and its $75 for a 4X8 sheet. All I need is a piece 32"X32" :(
 
nice looking rimless, can't wait to see more pictures :)
interested in seeing how those vortex work when mounting them on the bottom glass :D
 
Having kinda a small set back. I was cutting the groove for the overflow yesterday and the Rotozip decided to disintegrate on me. So now I have to buy a new one after work today and try to finish it up. It was working great though.
Im on the fence with the MP10's on the bottom. I want to do it for the uniqueness factor. There will be zero equipment seen in the tank. But then its a lot of work head-on and plus I hope it works. I don't know if it will limit the flow to much. Ill keep you updated either way though.
Here is a pic of the overflow box. Nothing special, I just like pics. I'm going to use the Herbie method. Ive been using it on my 135 for awhile and its working great.
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Here I am playing with the lights. They are Boost LED PAR30's with 40* optics, 4 Blues 1 white. This picture makes them look real purple, but they are bluer than blue. At 24" high, they cover a 24X24 section very well. This fixture was just thrown together. I may end up moving the lights back along the rail to have them point more front to back. They are just going to go in a simple 16X16 fixture and hung with conduit. So far I am very happy with them.
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This shows the color a little better. Ill try to shoot them at a white poster board for better pics.
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I got the glass slot cut. In the future I would ABSOLUTELY NOT suggest people do this. It leaves the glass very rough. There are no internal cracks, but the edge is very unfinished. No matter how I moved it, fast/slow, back and forth, sawing, it still broke apart rough. There was no smooth grinding like I wanted. I plan to get the acrylic cut 1/16 smaller than the opening so it will hide the edge though.
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