loweryster
Active member
Thats what I ment by this
I'm thinking about ditching the Giesemann and getting either Jesse's fixture or a Sfiligoi.
Just got the coolest chiller!
- Thread starter Fliger
- Start date
Thats what I ment by this
I'm thinking about ditching the Giesemann and getting either Jesse's fixture or a Sfiligoi.
Fliger
New member
I believe the PowerModule might also be on the horizon. I talked with a possible distributor and asked if I could take out ballasts and he said it was unlikely due to a sealed compartment. But that's what they told me about the Tek Light and the Sunlight NG. ;-)
I love Jesse's fixtures. I also saw a Sfiligoi in LA and they are very impressive in person. Definitely the cream of the crop.
He assured me that the ballasts would be very good ballasts, but as I was unimpressed with both Aquamedics and Giesemanns (and Sunlight Supply) - I dunno. I gotta get to LA to see Moonpods. I dunno if he hooked up his wattage meter yet.
Chuck????
I love Jesse's fixtures. I also saw a Sfiligoi in LA and they are very impressive in person. Definitely the cream of the crop.
He assured me that the ballasts would be very good ballasts, but as I was unimpressed with both Aquamedics and Giesemanns (and Sunlight Supply) - I dunno. I gotta get to LA to see Moonpods. I dunno if he hooked up his wattage meter yet.
Chuck????
loweryster
Active member
From cooling to lighting, good thread.
Did you see sunlight is redesigning the Maristar???
I had a quick chat with Chuck I know he's loving it.
Did you see sunlight is redesigning the Maristar???
I had a quick chat with Chuck I know he's loving it.
Fliger
New member
I talked with Sam a long time ago about it but he was reluctant to give any info. I forgot all about it, I'll check the forum! I gave him my input. I can't wait to see it. He shared his frustration on how SS couldn't keep costs down on fabrication - and they ended up with a fixture that was MORE expensive than some German units and the German units had a much better appearance (not performance, just appearance). I'm not in a hurry to replace the Sunlight NG - but you know I will. ;-)
Man I gotta go. Wife looking at me cross-eyed. 78.0 and holding on the chiller, but I need a chiller since its hot, where's the beer? :lol:
Man I gotta go. Wife looking at me cross-eyed. 78.0 and holding on the chiller, but I need a chiller since its hot, where's the beer? :lol:
loweryster
Active member
LOL
keep use updated
keep use updated
Fliger
New member
Last update, tank stayed at 78.1 - it actually spiked up quick to 78.2 but never for more than a few minutes.
So that just leaves the wattage question, but other than that - its pretty awesome.
I think my 1/3 hp chiller was about 800W, it was an aquanetics. It was actually so much that I couldn't wire it up to my controller (Aquatronica or Lighthouse). I was afraid of tripping it and never got around to making a RobbyG Relay. ;-)
So that just leaves the wattage question, but other than that - its pretty awesome.
I think my 1/3 hp chiller was about 800W, it was an aquanetics. It was actually so much that I couldn't wire it up to my controller (Aquatronica or Lighthouse). I was afraid of tripping it and never got around to making a RobbyG Relay. ;-)
Fliger
New member
Just checked my temp graph and the heater is nice as well. My tank usually hits 77.5 at night but I have the range from 77.9 - 80.1 (used to regulated by fans that turn on at 80.1 and off at 77.9). I haven't used my heater in a few months so at night it drops about 1/2 degree. So far I'd have to give this thing an 8 of 10. It'll be a 9 if the wattage is low, and a 10 for sure if the wattage is so low that it pays for the difference.
I did get a PM from finsreef stating that the wattage listed is max wattage, and its possible to run at less. Unlike my drop-in that was just an energy pig 100% of the time, especially at startup.
I guess another advantage I forgot to list is that I can throw away my heater and don't have to worry about it breaking in my sump. ;-)
I did get a PM from finsreef stating that the wattage listed is max wattage, and its possible to run at less. Unlike my drop-in that was just an energy pig 100% of the time, especially at startup.
I guess another advantage I forgot to list is that I can throw away my heater and don't have to worry about it breaking in my sump. ;-)
Fliger
New member
Awe crap. I just realized I still have a fan over the sump that is controlled by my Lighthouse. I turned the ones over the top of my tank off last night (altho I might keep one fan up there to keep my T5/660 cool). I have no way of knowing if the fan turned on/off last night during the 4 hours my MH's were on. I do know that the fan can not keep that temp range on its own so a combo of the fan and chiller kept the range. But I can't rule out that the fan helped.
Will update next week!
Will update next week!
Fliger
New member
Thats a good point. Altho I do want to cut my evap down, I need the kalk to offset the ca rx.
lastin1, I believe its about a grand. I had it down to this unit, the Ecocooler or the Teco. I liked this & the Eco due to wattage but the Eco evaps a little too much for me. Its a nice unit tho and talk about LOOOW wattage. The Teco seems nice also, quiet and it heats but I really wanted something small. I'm still amazed at the size of this thing.
I'll update next week. Gotta get ready for my weekend appt with nature! (camping)
lastin1, I believe its about a grand. I had it down to this unit, the Ecocooler or the Teco. I liked this & the Eco due to wattage but the Eco evaps a little too much for me. Its a nice unit tho and talk about LOOOW wattage. The Teco seems nice also, quiet and it heats but I really wanted something small. I'm still amazed at the size of this thing.
I'll update next week. Gotta get ready for my weekend appt with nature! (camping)
RobbyG
Active member
Fliger when you do the next set of readings, can you include the following:
whats the ambient air temp in the room were the tank is?
How long did it take to lower the temp?
The lowest Temp you could achieve
I have to agree with BeanAnimal, the Peltiers are very well known products with well known limitations. I am very wary of them, as they tend to only work well within certain Ambient room Temp ranges.
whats the ambient air temp in the room were the tank is?
How long did it take to lower the temp?
The lowest Temp you could achieve
I have to agree with BeanAnimal, the Peltiers are very well known products with well known limitations. I am very wary of them, as they tend to only work well within certain Ambient room Temp ranges.
it funny that you guys made it sound like it's something just pop out of the oven. using peltier to chill aquarium have been done for a long time, especially in nano aquarium, check out nano-reef.com there are couple thread about this right now, and there are companies that made chillers for nano exactly the same design as the one in this thread. actually I made one myself just couple months ago using simply acrylic and a peltier. I typed up the whole thing on nano-reef.com
just to recap/summarize what I said on nano-reef.com:
using a single 250W peltier, only running 90W, 10A@8.96V
heat pipe design heatsink with fan
5G water bucket with 3G water in it
room temp : 77-78F
initial water temp : 83F
temp drop: 15min per 1F, not totally linear dropping, slows down as temp goes down. maybe around 20 min for 1F when gets down to around 70F
final temp : 68-69F
no heating element in the water after the experiment start, only a 5W pump pumping 60-70gph to the device
as I mentioned on nano-reef also, the biggest concern that I have is the power supply. peltier notoriously draw HUGH current, u need a very good high amp DC power supply, reads $150+, to make the cooling device efficient and powerful. also as the room temp goes up, not only the peltier may not be as effective, but the current draw will rise also, hence, very good high amp DC power supply.
all in all, using peltier is a very good choice. also it's a easy DIY project, as long as your room temp don't get up to 95+F. you can always use couple peltier in series to make it more effective like the one mentioned in this thread. but be sure you use good power supply, otherwise u will blow something up like what I did. have fun and chill on!
just to recap/summarize what I said on nano-reef.com:
using a single 250W peltier, only running 90W, 10A@8.96V
heat pipe design heatsink with fan
5G water bucket with 3G water in it
room temp : 77-78F
initial water temp : 83F
temp drop: 15min per 1F, not totally linear dropping, slows down as temp goes down. maybe around 20 min for 1F when gets down to around 70F
final temp : 68-69F
no heating element in the water after the experiment start, only a 5W pump pumping 60-70gph to the device
as I mentioned on nano-reef also, the biggest concern that I have is the power supply. peltier notoriously draw HUGH current, u need a very good high amp DC power supply, reads $150+, to make the cooling device efficient and powerful. also as the room temp goes up, not only the peltier may not be as effective, but the current draw will rise also, hence, very good high amp DC power supply.
all in all, using peltier is a very good choice. also it's a easy DIY project, as long as your room temp don't get up to 95+F. you can always use couple peltier in series to make it more effective like the one mentioned in this thread. but be sure you use good power supply, otherwise u will blow something up like what I did. have fun and chill on!
Fliger
New member
No prob I will get all the info for you Robby. My ambiant room temp ranges from 78-80 in the summer. Lower in the winter. Right now its 80 and after 3.5 hours today, it is keeping up just fine. I did not remove the fan since I'm leaving for a couple days and this is day two of it working. I have hardly seen my topoff rez go down though (its built into the sump, so very visible).
As far as how long it takes, I don't really understand that question. It only turns on when the controller tells it to. And it keeps up with the heat input so I guess the answer is zero.
I can't really answer how low it will go. My SPS tank stays between 77.9 and 78.1 typically, I won't be going below 77.9 and I already know I can achieve that.
It should also be noted that over my smallish tank (115G total volume), I have a lot of heat input. 2x250W HQI and 4x54W overdriven to 85W each. Two Eheims, a couple MaxiJets, a Tunze 6100 and a SEIO 820. Ca Rx is not currently on.
Lastin1, its certainly not for everyone. Any decent chiller I looked at was $600 though for 1/3HP, and used much more electricity. Plus the other things made it worth it to me. Subtract what you would spend on a high quality heater, and dual stage controller as those are included. Also consider you need a $15 maxijet and $4 worth of tubing.
As far as how long it takes, I don't really understand that question. It only turns on when the controller tells it to. And it keeps up with the heat input so I guess the answer is zero.
I can't really answer how low it will go. My SPS tank stays between 77.9 and 78.1 typically, I won't be going below 77.9 and I already know I can achieve that.
It should also be noted that over my smallish tank (115G total volume), I have a lot of heat input. 2x250W HQI and 4x54W overdriven to 85W each. Two Eheims, a couple MaxiJets, a Tunze 6100 and a SEIO 820. Ca Rx is not currently on.
Lastin1, its certainly not for everyone. Any decent chiller I looked at was $600 though for 1/3HP, and used much more electricity. Plus the other things made it worth it to me. Subtract what you would spend on a high quality heater, and dual stage controller as those are included. Also consider you need a $15 maxijet and $4 worth of tubing.
RobbyG
Active member
My opinion is similar in some ways, I feel peltiers are a good option for any case where the smallest Chiller eg 1/4 HP is overkill for your tank eg 10 gal Nano.
In cases where a 1/4 HP chiller is not overkill, say a 55 Gal tank then one should stick to a chiller because it will save you money on your electric bill and has vast reservoirs of cooling capability that the peltier lacks.
In cases where a 1/4 HP chiller is not overkill, say a 55 Gal tank then one should stick to a chiller because it will save you money on your electric bill and has vast reservoirs of cooling capability that the peltier lacks.
A few things to answer the questions.
The Ocean Geotronic line has been extensively researched to get the most out of the Peltier modules. All units conform to EEC standards and are going for UL Listing. Peltech has put a great deal of research, and makes far more products with Peltiers than just Aquarium chillers.
Are for the amperage requirements, they are run off of 24v, therefore it cuts down on the Amp needed to run the conditioners.
The Peltiers are also electronically controlled for power usage. The power listings are at max. The ESC system adjusts the power adn reduces the electricity consumption by up to 30% of the value indicated.
For instance the 900 is rated for 230g at 500w max at 4.5A max. A average 1/3 hp Chiller pulls 570w at 5.2amps It has an average pulldown of 18F max at 86F air temp. That does not take into account the high amount of heat introduced back into the room that the chiller is running in, making them less efficient the more they run. The 1/3 also requires a feed pump of ~720 to 1200gph at 85w for an Eheim 1262, while the Ocean Geotronic only requires a 20w Maxi-Jet 1200.
Yes chillers are stronger, but they are also louder, bigger, noisier, heavier, and can only be position in one direction. The Ocean Geotronic can be position horizontal, vertical, or even upside down if needed.
The chiller is rated for a average of 5.4F to 12.6F pulldown with an ambient temp of 86F when properly sized.
Peltech has designed a special aluminum heat exchanger to increase the cooling/heating effect. They also provide a Tech report from an independent testing lab for verification of non corrosion in saltwater aquarium applications.
A traditional chiller has a quicker pulldown, but a properly sized Ocean Geotronic will maintain your tank temp to within .5F or less. 24hr a day.
As far as the lowest temp,
I took a Ocean150 and attached it to a 40g breeder that had a not controlled temp of 77.9 and chilled down to 66.2 and maintain it with a variance of .4F. Ambient room temp was 78.5. I will be running some extreme heat test on it this week to see how it can handle chilling a tank with an ambient air temp of 90F+.
The Ocean Geotronic line has been extensively researched to get the most out of the Peltier modules. All units conform to EEC standards and are going for UL Listing. Peltech has put a great deal of research, and makes far more products with Peltiers than just Aquarium chillers.
Are for the amperage requirements, they are run off of 24v, therefore it cuts down on the Amp needed to run the conditioners.
The Peltiers are also electronically controlled for power usage. The power listings are at max. The ESC system adjusts the power adn reduces the electricity consumption by up to 30% of the value indicated.
For instance the 900 is rated for 230g at 500w max at 4.5A max. A average 1/3 hp Chiller pulls 570w at 5.2amps It has an average pulldown of 18F max at 86F air temp. That does not take into account the high amount of heat introduced back into the room that the chiller is running in, making them less efficient the more they run. The 1/3 also requires a feed pump of ~720 to 1200gph at 85w for an Eheim 1262, while the Ocean Geotronic only requires a 20w Maxi-Jet 1200.
Yes chillers are stronger, but they are also louder, bigger, noisier, heavier, and can only be position in one direction. The Ocean Geotronic can be position horizontal, vertical, or even upside down if needed.
The chiller is rated for a average of 5.4F to 12.6F pulldown with an ambient temp of 86F when properly sized.
Peltech has designed a special aluminum heat exchanger to increase the cooling/heating effect. They also provide a Tech report from an independent testing lab for verification of non corrosion in saltwater aquarium applications.
A traditional chiller has a quicker pulldown, but a properly sized Ocean Geotronic will maintain your tank temp to within .5F or less. 24hr a day.
As far as the lowest temp,
I took a Ocean150 and attached it to a 40g breeder that had a not controlled temp of 77.9 and chilled down to 66.2 and maintain it with a variance of .4F. Ambient room temp was 78.5. I will be running some extreme heat test on it this week to see how it can handle chilling a tank with an ambient air temp of 90F+.
RobbyG
Active member
Finsreef, cool info but I will bet the house that your comparisons will end up being more on the lower side.
EG. You say
"Chiller pulls 570w at 5.2amps It has an average pulldown of 18F max at 86F "
"The chiller /(Peltier) is rated for a average of 5.4F to 12.6F pulldown with an ambient temp of 86F when properly sized" Using
500w max
My assumption is that on a hot day it's more like 5.4 F than 12.6
EG. You say
"Chiller pulls 570w at 5.2amps It has an average pulldown of 18F max at 86F "
"The chiller /(Peltier) is rated for a average of 5.4F to 12.6F pulldown with an ambient temp of 86F when properly sized" Using
500w max
My assumption is that on a hot day it's more like 5.4 F than 12.6
