Kalkwasser Powered Stony Tanks
- Thread starter Jackwkahn
- Start date
Charley Diesing
New member
+1 I wanna see this. 
Thanks,
I use a still reservoir( a brute garbage can with a lid) I mix 32 gallons of limewater at 2tsps per gallon plus a little extra,once week or so; 18 liters per day covers my top off. Stirring is with a legth of pvc pipe . The newly stirred limewater sits for 2 hours to let all the impurities and undissolved kalk settle to the bottom. Then a peristaltic pump is turned on . A diaphram pump may also be used as an alternative. The draw tube is set a few inches off the bottom, so no slurry is dosed ;only clear fully saturated liewater. The pump I use is a liter meter 3 . The amount to be dosed per day is set , in my case 18 liters. Once the pump is turned on , the timer turns the pump on and off 150 times to dose 150 equal increments over the 24 hours. The limewater does not need restirring as it will keep it's strength for a month or so in a covered but unsealed container if it is left still. The effluent tube delivers the 150 doses about 6 inches above the sump water line in a high flow area.
I use a still reservoir( a brute garbage can with a lid) I mix 32 gallons of limewater at 2tsps per gallon plus a little extra,once week or so; 18 liters per day covers my top off. Stirring is with a legth of pvc pipe . The newly stirred limewater sits for 2 hours to let all the impurities and undissolved kalk settle to the bottom. Then a peristaltic pump is turned on . A diaphram pump may also be used as an alternative. The draw tube is set a few inches off the bottom, so no slurry is dosed ;only clear fully saturated liewater. The pump I use is a liter meter 3 . The amount to be dosed per day is set , in my case 18 liters. Once the pump is turned on , the timer turns the pump on and off 150 times to dose 150 equal increments over the 24 hours. The limewater does not need restirring as it will keep it's strength for a month or so in a covered but unsealed container if it is left still. The effluent tube delivers the 150 doses about 6 inches above the sump water line in a high flow area.
rigleautomotive
Premium Member
Dosed as all top off from a still drum.Made once a week and very similar to TMZ's routine
Switched from a cal rx about 6 or 8 months ago due to all the media I tested having high PO4 readings.That and the negative effect on ph especially during the winter months here in PA made me finally break down the RX after a 6 year run..FYI my acroporas never looked happier after they got over the initial shock of changing replenishment techniques.A quick recent shot of some of the acros
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/55178113@N04/7309286476/" title="centerDSC_0447 by Dan Rigle, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7217/7309286476_53a90c4a2d.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="centerDSC_0447"></a>
Switched from a cal rx about 6 or 8 months ago due to all the media I tested having high PO4 readings.That and the negative effect on ph especially during the winter months here in PA made me finally break down the RX after a 6 year run..FYI my acroporas never looked happier after they got over the initial shock of changing replenishment techniques.A quick recent shot of some of the acros
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/55178113@N04/7309286476/" title="centerDSC_0447 by Dan Rigle, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7217/7309286476_53a90c4a2d.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="centerDSC_0447"></a>
rigleautomotive
Premium Member
The Kalk Rx did not ever work as well for me and created some degree of unpredictable instability.I am sure if implemented correctly for the right system it could work fine.I must add that I dose 250 ml of Randy's v-2 daily when my corals are growing well.Some two part is needed in addition for this system.
karsseboom
New member
Cause they dont. Once your Sps demand reaches a certain point the kalk never keeps up. Ask anyone with a fully stocked tank if they use only kalk and they always wind up using a reactor.
Cause they dont. Once your Sps demand reaches a certain point the kalk never keeps up. Ask anyone with a fully stocked tank if they use only kalk and they always wind up using a reactor.
Ask me I fit the profile of anyone with a fully stocked sps tank , I doubt there are many tanks as heavily stocked with growing sps.
I don't make this stuff up.
Do you use a CaCO3 reactor? Have you tried limewater? Or are you simply repeating what you may heve read somewhere?I'm guessing you use two part via the bubble magnus dosing pump noted in your signature.
I think kalk limitations are overstated, and Ca CO3 Reactor limitations are understated . Some folks don't actually maximize the kalk dose over the course of the day ;often precipitation takes a toll with less than optimal dosing. Others just like to echo things without seeing for themselves and somehow they become common truisms which aren't completely true.
Like Dan, I used a Ca CO3 recator for years and had problems with alk consistency and ph even when dosing kalk with it and becme concerned about what was in the media being dissolving; not just PO4 but every substance including toxins the coral that made it may have stashed in it's bones. Keeping up with all the equipment , CO2 bottle, CO2 regulator, bubble flow, circulating pump, dosing pump,etc.was a pain and control over the actual dose was indirect at best. My calcium reactor works best for my system where it has been placed for the last3.5 years ,on the storage shelf.
Ask me I fit the profile of anyone with a fully stocked sps tank , I doubt there are many tanks as heavily stocked with growing sps.
I don't make this stuff up.
Do you use a CaCO3 reactor? Have you tried limewater? Or are you simply repeating what you may heve read somewhere?I'm guessing you use two part via the bubble magnus dosing pump noted in your signature.
I think kalk limitations are overstated, and Ca CO3 Reactor limitations are understated . Some folks don't actually maximize the kalk dose over the course of the day ;often precipitation takes a toll with less than optimal dosing. Others just like to echo things without seeing for themselves and somehow they become common truisms which aren't completely true.
Like Dan, I used a Ca CO3 recator for years and had problems with alk consistency and ph even when dosing kalk with it and becme concerned about what was in the media being dissolving; not just PO4 but every substance including toxins the coral that made it may have stashed in it's bones. Keeping up with all the equipment , CO2 bottle, CO2 regulator, bubble flow, circulating pump, dosing pump,etc.was a pain and control over the actual dose was indirect at best. My calcium reactor works best for my system where it has been placed for the last3.5 years ,on the storage shelf.
Well it's not constant seasonally and adjustments of 5 to 10%+ or minus on the total 24 hour dose are done twice per year in the late spring and fall. the evaporation changes some due to shifts in relative humidity. small shorfalls are made up with a liter or so of ro/ water to the sump from time to time. The 24/7 dosing in 150 increments keeps things pretty consistent overall.
souperman
Member
tmz: I currently dose kalk from an identical Brute garbage can with a peristaltic pump, but I use floats to activate dosing. I have a controller that would let me switch from an output based system to a timer based setup like you run very easily. I have been thinking more about doing this in an effort to smooth the pH spikes and keep things more level specially with the weather warming up.
Do you simply not worry about the increase in kalk being delivered during warmer months after you adjust for more evaporation? With the combination of the house being opened up more and increase evaporation my pH has been climbing over 8.5.
Do you simply not worry about the increase in kalk being delivered during warmer months after you adjust for more evaporation? With the combination of the house being opened up more and increase evaporation my pH has been climbing over 8.5.
Jackwkahn
New member
first of all, beautiful tanks to everyone who posted.
after many months of bleaching SPS, I am finally starting to see pretty fast growth on a montipora digitata frag. As per BRS recommendation I have just started running 1tsp/gallon in my ATO since I only have a few SPS and LPS pieces.
Before I ran the Kalk I tested my ALK CAL and NO3 (just for the hell of it; about 1.5 ppm on Elos test (tested twice)). Alk was fine at about 7.4 dkh but calcium was low at about 350ppm. Raised it up to about 450 over the course of the day and started running my kalk. I will test levels again next sunday when I do My next water change. Speaking of which, my freaking huevon de mierda reef crystals batch produces water with 11dkh and 200ppm calcium, tested MULTIPLE times. grrrrrrr. Anyways,
1. carx is calcium reactor, correct?
2. I have this idea in my head that kalk keeps things stable even if dosed inconsistently (i.e. ATO). Can someone tell me how wrong or right I am?
thanks
after many months of bleaching SPS, I am finally starting to see pretty fast growth on a montipora digitata frag. As per BRS recommendation I have just started running 1tsp/gallon in my ATO since I only have a few SPS and LPS pieces.
Before I ran the Kalk I tested my ALK CAL and NO3 (just for the hell of it; about 1.5 ppm on Elos test (tested twice)). Alk was fine at about 7.4 dkh but calcium was low at about 350ppm. Raised it up to about 450 over the course of the day and started running my kalk. I will test levels again next sunday when I do My next water change. Speaking of which, my freaking huevon de mierda reef crystals batch produces water with 11dkh and 200ppm calcium, tested MULTIPLE times. grrrrrrr. Anyways,
1. carx is calcium reactor, correct?
2. I have this idea in my head that kalk keeps things stable even if dosed inconsistently (i.e. ATO). Can someone tell me how wrong or right I am?
thanks
Do you simply not worry about the increase in kalk being delivered during warmer months after you adjust for more evaporation? With the combination of the house being opened up more and increase evaporation my pH has been climbing over 8.5.
There really isn't much difference. If It becomes significant the amount of kalk powder added to the reservoir can be adjusted. ..Alternatively , depending on whether or not I'd like to see higher ph , I just set it to match the lowest seasonal evaporation rate and make up the diference with plain ro water.
High Ph is not an issue for me. Ph is depressed a bit by the organic carbon dosing( vodka and vinegar ) I use for nitrate and PO4 control and bacterial growth.
Using a calcium reactor and kalk makes a nice combination for managing ph if and when you need more calcium and alkalinity. I used them this way for years but corals neer had 3.5 yer run witout issues withthat method as I used it.
If it's just ph you like to drop , more open water and surface agitation might help drop it or CO2 can be poured in as seltzer water or be bubbled in in some fashion. An acid like vinegarwil ldrop it too but adssorganic carbon which you mayor maynot want.
I'd personally prefer to let the kalk do the heavy lifiting for supplementation of calcium and alk since it is very pure and easy to dose consistently relative to a Calcium reactor output.
Commercial two part additives have impurities as well and also add extra chloride which is not a big deal but can throw the chloride/ sulfate ratio off over time.
If you don't want to drop ph and still need a little more alk at some point, I'd lead with kalk and then add a bit of two part( ie, baking soda and calcium chloride) In my case1% per day water changes do nicely along with kalk and an occasional tweak of baked baking soda.. The tweaks are becoming a bit more frequent;1tbspoon of soda ash twice per week now vs once per week over the preceding 3yrs,but kalk is the mainstay and the tanks are literally stuffed with sps .
There really isn't much difference. If It becomes significant the amount of kalk powder added to the reservoir can be adjusted. ..Alternatively , depending on whether or not I'd like to see higher ph , I just set it to match the lowest seasonal evaporation rate and make up the diference with plain ro water.
High Ph is not an issue for me. Ph is depressed a bit by the organic carbon dosing( vodka and vinegar ) I use for nitrate and PO4 control and bacterial growth.
Using a calcium reactor and kalk makes a nice combination for managing ph if and when you need more calcium and alkalinity. I used them this way for years but corals neer had 3.5 yer run witout issues withthat method as I used it.
If it's just ph you like to drop , more open water and surface agitation might help drop it or CO2 can be poured in as seltzer water or be bubbled in in some fashion. An acid like vinegarwil ldrop it too but adssorganic carbon which you mayor maynot want.
I'd personally prefer to let the kalk do the heavy lifiting for supplementation of calcium and alk since it is very pure and easy to dose consistently relative to a Calcium reactor output.
Commercial two part additives have impurities as well and also add extra chloride which is not a big deal but can throw the chloride/ sulfate ratio off over time.
If you don't want to drop ph and still need a little more alk at some point, I'd lead with kalk and then add a bit of two part( ie, baking soda and calcium chloride) In my case1% per day water changes do nicely along with kalk and an occasional tweak of baked baking soda.. The tweaks are becoming a bit more frequent;1tbspoon of soda ash twice per week now vs once per week over the preceding 3yrs,but kalk is the mainstay and the tanks are literally stuffed with sps .
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