Kasey's Kube

So, I have a theory. First, I don't think I have Dino's in the tank; I think it's Cyano. It's not stringing out with bubbles like it was the first time I dealt with Dino's. It's also red. It's just been so long since I've dealt with Cyano that I didn't recognize it right away.

The next part of my theory is the cause. The sand bed was looking a bit dirty, so I thought I'd clean it a little more thoroughly. Well, after I did that, the next day I noticed the slime. That day I tested the pH, right before the lights went off (when pH is typically highest). It registered just under 7.8; typically, the tank runs around 7.9 to 8.1. It was slowly rising as my Kalkwasser concentration was being increased in the top-off. In short, cleaning the sand bed that extra bit with the large WC changed something. It was also the same day that I took the MP20 out and replaced it with my Koralia 550 (I keep this as a backup PH); the surface agitation dropped significantly with this change. In the end, my pH had dropped significantly.

Well, today the pH read 7.8 before lights came on (at the typically low point). I've been dosing a little bacteria to counteract the loss it I may have experience from cleaning the sandbed. The Big 3 have remained stable, and surprisingly, the corals seem to have gained some color. Specifically, the Tricolor seems to be gaining more purple. It looked pretty drab from the start.

Lastly, I know I said I wouldn't change my salt, but I ordered some Tropic Marin Pro Reef. It's the salt I have usually used in my previous tanks back in Va. Beach. Perry, I suppose I have you to thank for this. :p

I'll try to post pics soon.
 
FTS's:

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Too funny Kasey, TMPR are solid salt from one batch to the next, only salt I remember consistently locking in exact parameters each time. I am not a fan of high alk and ca, just leave you on that slippery slope. I like 8.3 to 8.8 on alk, 420-440 on Ca, and 1390-1450 on mag. The only parameter fringing on low side is mag, this is an easy solution for me, given the salt mixes at 1.025 within respective parameters. That being said, since we are running smaller tanks, and can do rather large water changes, the impact $ wise is negligible, IMO... I think you made a wise choice, I love the smell of this salt when mixing, it is so clean, you have made a wise choice sir...:)
 
:D

Thanks Perry! I think it's a wise choice as well. I was always happy with the results I've had in the past, concerning TMPR. You're right; with our nano tanks, the price difference really isn't a big deal.
 
Ok, so I bought snails from Reef Cleaners, when I first set up the tank. Well, when I received them, I had well over double the small Cerith snails I ordered. Now, I'm glad I have them. Here's why:

Yesterday, I did a small water change on the tank, and I removed the red stuff (not sure if it was Dino's or Cyano). Later today I noticed I missed a couple of spots, but when I noticed them, I also noticed a few Cerith snails at those spots munching away. So, it's not Dino's and seems to be Cyano (or Cerith snail food). :D
 
Ok, so I bought snails from Reef Cleaners, when I first set up the tank. Well, when I received them, I had well over double the small Cerith snails I ordered. Now, I'm glad I have them. Here's why:

Yesterday, I did a small water change on the tank, and I removed the red stuff (not sure if it was Dino's or Cyano). Later today I noticed I missed a couple of spots, but when I noticed them, I also noticed a few Cerith snails at those spots munching away. So, it's not Dino's and seems to be Cyano (or Cerith snail food). :D

There you go. :thumbsup: at least whatever it is; Dinos or Cyanno, you have a natural predator for it thats eating it. Good to know that you have it under control. :)
 
Thanks! I really like the Vortech pumps, but I changed my MP20 for a Tunze 6045 Nanostream. Vortech pumps are great, but due to their lack of options with direction, I couldn't have enough flow for the SPS without kicking up the sand. If I were going BB again, I'd go with the Vortech.
 
Thanks! I really like the Vortech pumps, but I changed my MP20 for a Tunze 6045 Nanostream. Vortech pumps are great, but due to their lack of options with direction, I couldn't have enough flow for the SPS without kicking up the sand. If I were going BB again, I'd go with the Vortech.

I just like the lack of cord in the tank that you get from the VorTec. I just want to add flow to my 27g cube. I think the MP10 will work fine for what i want.
 
Well, here's an update on the tank. I accidentally overdosed Kalkwasser. This caused my Green Millepora to STN. After the initial swing, it kept spreading. I then proceeded to dose Lugol's solution, thinking there might be an infection and that the corals would benefit from the addition. Well, I overdosed that as well. The Mille continued to recede and browned out. I then fragged the Mille to save it. Everything seems to be ok.

Currently, I have one bleached Pink Table, one browned out, fragged and stressed Mille, one Tricolor that seems to be happy, a Pocci that's happy as well as a Fungia. I guess, on the whole, the tank's doing well. Everything seems to be on the mend, but the Mille still looks rough, very little PE and brown. I shocked it pretty badly.

In my almost 8 years of experience, I don't think I've felt so inexperienced (except my first tank). Then again, this is the first time I've kept SPS in a tank under 25g...and under LED's.

From this point on, I'll stick to what I know. Weekly 20% WC's with stable Salinity, Temp, Calcium, Alkalinity, and Magnesium...things I can test. Human error our biggest killer. I'm wiping the idea of being experienced and sticking to the basics.
 
Well that stinks but good to know you were able to catch the issue and over time it should work itself out.

Ever notice that when someone tries to kill their coral but fails to do so they seem to come back stronger, faster um prettier.... like the 6 million dollar woman?
 
tank looks great, very natural, reminds me of dives alongside walls, only thing missing for this is a gorgonian sticking out of the wall ;) greetings
 
In answer to your question, no, I don't have a pH monitor. I'm just using an API test kit; it's cheap, but in the past I've always used them for pH and never seemed to have problems.

Update:
As far as the tank progression is concerned, things are not so great.

This tank has been very frustrating, as things are not falling into place like they usually did with my previous tanks. The acros are just not happy. While the other hard corals seem to be happy, they're not really growing a ton. The tank is still growing some weird sort of bacteria that I can't seem to find pictures for. Things just don't seem quite right.

There are three things I've done differently with this tank that I didn't do with my successful tanks:

1. The use of dry rock as a primary means of filtration: While I did use a little bit of live rock with this tank at the beginning, it had gone through quite a bit, including being left outside in a bucket on a particularly cold night that froze the top layer of water despite the powerhead. Needless to say, I don't think much bacteria was left after that. Also, while I have started 2 other tanks with dry rock only, they never were successful in the end. Interestingly, all tanks I started with solely dry rock ended up developing this odd bacteria that I currently have now. I thought it was familiar looking but couldn't place it until now. Simply put, I think I overlooked the importance of dosing a quality bacteria in the tank. I feel as though I don't have the diversity I would normally have with live rock. I have NO copepods or any other micro inverts that I usually had with my tanks with live rock (all live rock tanks were successful in growing corals). To sum it all up, I think my bacterial and micro invert diversity is non-existent.

2. Using/making my own RO/DI: In Virginia Beach, I always had excellent water available to me from the LFS that I worked at. The owner regularly serviced this massive system, and as a result I always felt comfortable, knowing I had a quality starting point for my reef. Now, I'm using BRS 5 stage RO/DI. It's the standard one, but the city I live in uses chloramine. After reading Randy's article about chloramine, I feel pretty certain that the standard system is sufficient, but since I needed new filters and DI resin, I went ahead and bought the chloramine specific kit. This will just help me, again, feel confident that I'm starting with a a quality base for my reef.

3.I've never used LED's before: This isn't a bad thing, but it is certainly an unknown. As a result of the light shock the corals received from this light, I've raised it and adjusted the intensity to what I feel it a more acceptable level for the corals. It currently sits about 2.5 feet above the tank, running at 700 mA for white, red, green and UV and 1000 mA (1 A) for the blues. The result is a little less intensity given the particularly high height, but as a result the tank is more open. I really like this.

These three new elements have been listed in order of probable cause for the tank's current condition. In other words, I think the lack of diversity is the real issue, while the lighting is probably least of my worries.

So, in answer to this, I'm setting up a refugium in my sump. I'll be adding live sand from an established reef to it as well as the display tank. I'll also, be adding established live rock to the sump as well as buying some quality bacteria to starting dosing the system. 5-6 species of macro algae will be added to the refugium (none are caulerpa) now that I've dropped my magnesium levels to around 1400 ppm. Finally, I'll be adding quite a few amphipods and many other micro inverts. The refugium will receive lighting probably all day, every day.

After this I'm going to continue my regular weekly WC's with Tropic Marin Pro Reef. And, for quite a few months, I will not being adding ANY more SPS. I want more biological diversity to be thriving in this aquarium. That's my main goal.

Things will probably be a little boring on this thread. I'll update it as the refugium progresses.
 
Kasey,
Sorry to hear about the slow go, I hear you with the LED's, I have a local guy that wants to hook me up on a panorama led setup for a good price, but when I look into the tank and see daily growth, kinda hard...:) I too started with mostly dead rock, but I added some fresh live, I would seed the heck out of the fuge, add some live rock, live sand, live copepods, and a medley of macro algaes. This should definitely get your bio-diversity up, will likely stablize things a bit. Do you have specs on fuge yet, size, flow, type of life, etc? Anway, snag a few pics and post :)
GL Kasey!
 
So, in answer to this, I'm setting up a refugium in my sump. I'll be adding live sand from an established reef to it as well as the display tank. I'll also, be adding established live rock to the sump as well as buying some quality bacteria to starting dosing the system. 5-6 species of macro algae will be added to the refugium (none are caulerpa) now that I've dropped my magnesium levels to around 1400 ppm. Finally, I'll be adding quite a few amphipods and many other micro inverts. The refugium will receive lighting probably all day, every day.
Sorry to hear about all your trouble. But beefing up the bioload and filtration in your sump can ONLY help. :thumbsup:

But why the 24x7 lighting? Wouldn't a reverse photo-period work better? It would stabilize your daily pH swings a bit, and the photosynthetic life in the sump will appreciate the down time.
 
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