Kelvin for a RBTA

orcafood

Member
Right now, I have 175 watt 10,000 K Ushio bulbs. I recently purchased two new 175 watt 14,000 K Ushio bulbs. Which should the anemone do better under?

Also, over the past month he has begun to decline. At the beginning of January the RBTA was very bubbled and very red. Now, his tentacles are very small, short and skinny (1/2 in long). Also, he is bleached every where except on the tips of his tentacles. He still accepts food, so I feed one Krill every day (for the past 5 days).

What do these symptoms sound like?

Salinity = 1.025
PH = 8.1
Nitrate Nitrite Amonia = 0
Calcium = 450ppm
Alk = 10

EDIT:
The RBTA is about 10 in directly under one of the metal halides.
 
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Few questions,
Your not force feed'n right?
Also I would change the diet here. Silversides are very good for them. You might be feeding it to much. Try ever other day.
Also is the ALK really 10? Seems high.

For the lights I would say 200+ watts I use dual 50/50's and dual 10k with 7500
total of 288watts. Also do you have a pic?
 
I don't force feed, no, and I meant the alk was more like 8, sorry.

I will get a pick when I can get my stupid camera to work (I tryed for three hours).

I will change the diet to silver sides immeadiatly, thanks for the tip!

So, light wise, what Kelvin are you saying RBTAs do best at?
Im pretty sure Ive got enough PAR with 600+ watts.
 
Here are some pictures

The RBTA is a little more deflated in these pictures then he is now, but you get the idea.

100_2864.jpg


100_2862.jpg
 
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keep water perfect and feed every 3 days try some squid too,i have 4 2rbta and 2gbta and i went from 150 to 250 MH and bleached 2 of my rbta not as bad as yours,too much feeding can also be stressing the rbta.mine is slowly recovering
 
The 10,000K bulbs will give more par, assuming both are the same wattage; however, 14,000K should be fine.
 
That RBTA is bleached ? How long have you had it?
This is a normal RBTA, did yours ever come close to this

RBTA12-31-07.jpg
 
Ok, so I will lower the feeding to about every 2-3 days, thanks.
Also, will I be not be getting enough light for the anemone with 14,000K 175 watt Metal Halides?
 
Mine was just like yours Feederfish for like two months, then it decided to move and now it looks how it does? Is it going to die or what?
The tank is about a year old, so I don't think its that.
The bulbs are about 10 months old, maybe they burned out, which caused him to bleach? In any case I ordered my new 14,000Ks bulbs to replace the 10,000Ks.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11742609#post11742609 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by orcafood

The bulbs are about 10 months old, maybe they burned out, which caused him to bleach?

Is it possible?
What do you guys think is making my poor RBTA look so bad?
 
I have had the coral banded shrimp for about 3/4th of a year now.
I know that the Shrimp is not stealing the food, because I watch very closely and make sure that the mouth is firmly closed. Once closed, the food is not coming out no matter what.

http://www.karensroseanemones.com/thesickrose.htm
According to karen, BTAs should still have nice tentacles even if they are bleached or sick.

I am really starting to think it is my lighting.
 
Might just be. Hey I picked up some zoo plex by kent. This might be a good idea for ya.
Read up on it and give it a go. It does help even sick ones.
 
One more question for today, I do have a bit of flow through the tank
(3,000 gph) but it does not oscelate. I have no wave maker yet, but I am getting one for my return pump soon.

Could that be a big factor?
 
Anyone else have any ideas about why my anemone has such stuby white tentacles?

I am now feeding zooplex and silver sides. New lights are coming soon.
 
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