Kessil AP 700 Owners Gather Here!
- Thread starter Confuse
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With the T5s
As you can see from the photos, big differences. Really doesn't show well in in the photos.
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The look I'm looking for is a 20K Radium on a magnetic ballast, which is white with a hint of blue. Thus far, I'm waay too much on the white side with the two Coral+ bulbs and if I make the AP 700 more blue, it turns somewhat purple.
bif24701
New member
Then Blue + is the way to go for you. I'm very happy with the look and coral's response.
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Good to hear! I should get my bulbs today. The Coral+ was just way too purple-ish combined with the AP 700. Hopefully, I can get a more balanced look from these bulbs.
bif24701
New member
I just found it easier to add some white with the AP700.
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So I installed the new bulbs and at first, I wasn't digging the look, but I am still burning the bulbs in at 100%. I will be running the T5's way lower, so it may not be as overpowering blue as it is right now. I liked the Coral+, but there was too much of a red spike in the bulb that didn't mix well with the blues. I was thinking about the Aqua Blue Special, but I'm gonna give this combo some time.
bif24701
New member
Try adding some red/green. That will give you additional white look.
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So as the software has matured, I feel the app needs to continue to evolve. I hope kessil didn't get too cozy after not hearing as many complaints and just leave the app as it is.
I think the color wheel should work just like the color know on the other kessil units. The way it is now, it's split into a pie chart and don't provide precise color adjustment. I feel this feature should be more refined.
Any thoughts?
I think the color wheel should work just like the color know on the other kessil units. The way it is now, it's split into a pie chart and don't provide precise color adjustment. I feel this feature should be more refined.
Any thoughts?
Agreed. The App works, but it is not of the quality that you would expect for what amounts to one of the most expensive lights in the industry. They really, really, need an experienced embedded developer. Hopefully they can wring more features out of the SBC they have integrated into the light.
Dennis
My frag tank is in transition at the moment. I typically have lots of nutrients in the water column (NO3:10-15 ppm, PO4:0.06-0.08 ppm), but recently have been struggling to keep my NO3 above 2.0 ppm. My LPS frags have been reacting poorly to the lower nutrients along with some light adjustments that I had done. The light changes that I had made was to lower the fixture down a couple of inches over my 4' frag tank. It was at 20" and I was getting lots of spillage, so I lowered it to 16". After that I started having bleaching issues with LPS, so I dropped my max % from 35% to 30%, which seemed to help (the LPS).
That brings us to today. I just received my Apogee MQ-510 PAR meter and decided to see just how much PAR I was putting out in the frag tank. I would like to raise the PAR for the benefit of my SPS frags, but not cause the LPS to have any more issues with bleaching.
What I found was surprising. At the current power level (30%) and height 16", The bottom of the frag tank was receiving 50 PAR, with the ends of the tank dropping to as low as 25. The highest PAR was in the center of the tank on a rock close to the surface at 75 PAR. I was thinking the PAR would have been higher as my LPS were already bleaching a bit, but even at low PAR the AP700 packs a punch.
I decided not to raise the power level yet, but instead dropped the fixture height another 2", so now at 14" off the water (tank is only 18" deep). I have been planning on adding 2 T5's to this tank, but they tend to do better closer to the water, so moving the fixture lower for now. I plan on observing the corals reaction for a week or so and then may lower the fixture another 2" or so before I even think about raising power levels higher.
My target is to get the center of the tank on the top of the rock to 250 PAR. The SPS there is growing quite fast currently, but its colours are quite dark/muddy at the moment.
Dennis
That brings us to today. I just received my Apogee MQ-510 PAR meter and decided to see just how much PAR I was putting out in the frag tank. I would like to raise the PAR for the benefit of my SPS frags, but not cause the LPS to have any more issues with bleaching.
What I found was surprising. At the current power level (30%) and height 16", The bottom of the frag tank was receiving 50 PAR, with the ends of the tank dropping to as low as 25. The highest PAR was in the center of the tank on a rock close to the surface at 75 PAR. I was thinking the PAR would have been higher as my LPS were already bleaching a bit, but even at low PAR the AP700 packs a punch.
I decided not to raise the power level yet, but instead dropped the fixture height another 2", so now at 14" off the water (tank is only 18" deep). I have been planning on adding 2 T5's to this tank, but they tend to do better closer to the water, so moving the fixture lower for now. I plan on observing the corals reaction for a week or so and then may lower the fixture another 2" or so before I even think about raising power levels higher.
My target is to get the center of the tank on the top of the rock to 250 PAR. The SPS there is growing quite fast currently, but its colours are quite dark/muddy at the moment.
Dennis
bif24701
New member
If your LPS are bleaching still I would take a good hard look at your ALK, NO3, and PO4. Shouldn't have bleaching issues how your set up.
50 PAR seems about right for softies/LPS with the light mounted so high and 30% intensity.
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I suspect the issue with the LPS is the drop in Nitrate. 2.0 ppm is not low by many standards, but as they were acclimated to higher nitrate, the drop is 500 - 700% less to them. They will adapt hopefully.
The Alk, Phosphates are fine. Though the PO4 might be lower than historical as well.
I made another interesting observation. In this same tank, I have noticed that the chalices and some plating SPS that are located along the front glass had been growing much faster than other frags. At first I thought they might be responding to the lower nutrient load, but the plating SPS was an oddity.
The fast growing coral had broken off a larger colony that had encrusted on a rock that was sitting just back from the glass. Over the last couple of months the SPS frags went from about a total area of 3" x 3" to 7" x 5". What I have concluded is that late in the afternoon, at this time of the summer, sunlight comes through the window behind the frag tank, and brightens the first 5" of the bottom of the tank along the front. The tank is in a basement, so the sun has to be high enough in the sky to achieve this.
I noticed it a couple of weeks ago, but did not think too much of it, but then when pondering why these frags were growing at a faster rate, I remembered the sunlight so this weekend I waited for the 20 - 30 minute window when it happens to use my Apogee meter to see what PAR these frags were getting. The frags are being lit with 150 PAR for a short slice of time until the sun passes too far to the west and gets blocked by the neighbours house.
So mystery solved, and this makes me more convinced that I need to get the par up as planned.
I am wondering if I can duplicate this effect by adding a short period into the program to toggle the intensity up and switch to the lightest blue (Sky Blue). I dug a SenEye out of my unused parts and measured both sunlight and the Sky Blue setting of the AP700 with the spectrum plot. The sunlight measured about 6700K, and had lots of green, some blue and some red. On the spectrum graph , it looked like an arc. The Sky Blue setting of the AP700 showed lots more blue, moderate green and decent red. It seemed to be closest preprogrammed colours with similar spectrum.
Then again, I could be overthinking this and any of the blues would work, as long as it is giving ~ 150 PAR.
Dennis
The Alk, Phosphates are fine. Though the PO4 might be lower than historical as well.
I made another interesting observation. In this same tank, I have noticed that the chalices and some plating SPS that are located along the front glass had been growing much faster than other frags. At first I thought they might be responding to the lower nutrient load, but the plating SPS was an oddity.
The fast growing coral had broken off a larger colony that had encrusted on a rock that was sitting just back from the glass. Over the last couple of months the SPS frags went from about a total area of 3" x 3" to 7" x 5". What I have concluded is that late in the afternoon, at this time of the summer, sunlight comes through the window behind the frag tank, and brightens the first 5" of the bottom of the tank along the front. The tank is in a basement, so the sun has to be high enough in the sky to achieve this.
I noticed it a couple of weeks ago, but did not think too much of it, but then when pondering why these frags were growing at a faster rate, I remembered the sunlight so this weekend I waited for the 20 - 30 minute window when it happens to use my Apogee meter to see what PAR these frags were getting. The frags are being lit with 150 PAR for a short slice of time until the sun passes too far to the west and gets blocked by the neighbours house.
So mystery solved, and this makes me more convinced that I need to get the par up as planned.
I am wondering if I can duplicate this effect by adding a short period into the program to toggle the intensity up and switch to the lightest blue (Sky Blue). I dug a SenEye out of my unused parts and measured both sunlight and the Sky Blue setting of the AP700 with the spectrum plot. The sunlight measured about 6700K, and had lots of green, some blue and some red. On the spectrum graph , it looked like an arc. The Sky Blue setting of the AP700 showed lots more blue, moderate green and decent red. It seemed to be closest preprogrammed colours with similar spectrum.
Then again, I could be overthinking this and any of the blues would work, as long as it is giving ~ 150 PAR.
Dennis
Woke up this morning and my frag tank light was on. The unit seemed to be unresponsive as even the power button did nothing. i rebooted it and it appears to be connecting to wifi and waiting for the scheduled program time. Fingers crossed.
Also I discovered that one of my AP700 units that I have had sitting here awaiting my large tank project is bad. Its never visible over wifi. I tested the other 4 units and they all tested fine. I had better get a warranty claim going with Kessil as I have had these for awhile.
Dennis
Also I discovered that one of my AP700 units that I have had sitting here awaiting my large tank project is bad. Its never visible over wifi. I tested the other 4 units and they all tested fine. I had better get a warranty claim going with Kessil as I have had these for awhile.
Dennis
bif24701
New member
Kessil customer service has been reportedly great for past claims. Give them the chance to make it right and I am sure they will do what they can to make it right.
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I can vouch for their customer service, it's been nothing short of spectacular. To my point, I recently had a used 160 stop working, so I e-mailed them about possibly repairing the unit and they asked for the serial number. The light was still under warranty and they offered to replace the light at no cost to me (just held my cc#). I'm the third owner of this light, not the original and they still honored the warranty. Granted, I only have a 90 day warranty on the new light, but it's a new light. Most companies won't even help unless you have the original receipt.
Thank you Kessil for looking out for your customers!:beer::dance:
Thank you Kessil for looking out for your customers!:beer::dance:
RussC
Active member
Newbie looking for Assistance on Programming my AP700 Lunar Cycle
Newbie looking for Assistance on Programming my AP700 Lunar Cycle
Hey guys, been reading this thread. Newbie owner here. I'm studying the moonlight option to try and see if I can find instructions (or just a good explanation) on how to make a transition from my normal light program to a moonlight program. Can you offer some assistance? Currently my program has the lights turning off at 9pm. I'd like to change that to 8pm and have the program transition directly into a moonlight program from 8pm to 11pm. I"m not sure where to begin. How do I do that? Do I add a program point? The lunar cycle asks for dawn and dusk. But I'm only interested in dusk since I won't have the cycle on till dawn. Or is the the time I set so the the program sees that as "daytime" and then activates the lunar cycle when those settings end?
Newbie looking for Assistance on Programming my AP700 Lunar Cycle
Hey guys, been reading this thread. Newbie owner here. I'm studying the moonlight option to try and see if I can find instructions (or just a good explanation) on how to make a transition from my normal light program to a moonlight program. Can you offer some assistance? Currently my program has the lights turning off at 9pm. I'd like to change that to 8pm and have the program transition directly into a moonlight program from 8pm to 11pm. I"m not sure where to begin. How do I do that? Do I add a program point? The lunar cycle asks for dawn and dusk. But I'm only interested in dusk since I won't have the cycle on till dawn. Or is the the time I set so the the program sees that as "daytime" and then activates the lunar cycle when those settings end?
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