Kessil Club

I have a Reefer 170 (25x20 inches, 20 tall) with a single Kessil 360W, and I'm trying to improve shadowing. Do you think the AP700 will be overkill for this aquarium? Better a second 360? I know also about T5 supplementation, but I prefer going only LED.

I would look at going with two A160. I wish I would have gone this route on my 30" long tank instead of a single A360. The single A360 works fine for now, but will be an issue when corals start growing in
 
I would look at going with two A160. I wish I would have gone this route on my 30" long tank instead of a single A360. The single A360 works fine for now, but will be an issue when corals start growing in



Yes, that is what I thought initially, but having already one A360 I think it's easier to buy another A360 instead os selling the 360 and buying 2 160. Won't be much more expensive and also better in case I get a larger tank.
 
Yes, that is what I thought initially, but having already one A360 I think it's easier to buy another A360 instead os selling the 360 and buying 2 160. Won't be much more expensive and also better in case I get a larger tank.

I think that is the best option; you can space them closer together than the 700 so you don't have so much wasted light. And if you ever do go bigger, you'll still have the flexibility to space them how you want. They have worked fantastic for me.
 
Is it pointless to use a par meter when dialing in Kessils?

I wouldn't say pointless but I certainly think we get too caught up in the numbers. I set my intensities to what seemed to be working for my corals for the last six to seven months and just measured the PAR last week. At 40% max intensity, I knew I wasn't going to see any big numbers but I was surprised by how good everything looked in comparison to how low my results were given all the minimums you see posted for specific species.
 
I ask that because everything I read about Kessils suggests that even if you get low par readings, that Kessils are deceivingly powerful.


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I am wondering if switchcing from a 8hr photo period to a 12 hr photo period could have caused a bleaching event if you moved too fast.


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I'm going to say yes. Increasing the photo period by 4 hours is significant. I've only had my A360WE for a few weeks and have found that regardless of numbers or appearance, the light it puts out is powerful. Things in my tank retreated from the light even at lower intensities. I'm keeping the color at 30% and intensity below 60%.
 
Ok needing help.

Been wondering why my bubble tips (both Sherman red and rainbow tip anemone) have turned brown over the last year under my Kessil 360s.

Everything I have read about that suggests lighting isn't intense enough. I am currently at 70% intensity with my 360s and they sit 10" off the water line and have a 20" depth to penetrate. The anemones sit near the middle/bottom of the tank at about 14" from the water line.

My question is this:
"¢Does the UV in the KESSILs cause this?
"¢Should I turn up the intensity? Most of what I have read says anemones turn brown due to poor lighting.

Just looking for what could have caused this. The anemones have really grown quite large but I have read where many people say that their anemones retain their color under good lighting.

Thoughts?

Think I already covered some of this but my lights are only 5" above the waterline and my acro is 8" below the surface. At 40% intensity, there is just over 100 PAR at that location. I'd be willing to bet your PAR is less than half that if it's at the bottom of the tank. I do run a 12 hour photo period but they're on a parabola so they're only at max settings for a short period of time (rolls off to 10% on both the color and intensity on the front and back end with the peak at 4pm which is around the time I get home from work).

I've experienced no color shift in any of my corals but I don't have an anemone (other than green mushrooms that will live under just about anything).
 
Kessil Club

So I wasn't paying attention when I was buying my 3 A360we for my 125g and I ended up with 2 tuna suns and a tuna blue (I bought used so I can't return). I'm not sure which ones to keep and which to sell. Does anyone run the tuna sun on their tanks? I do plan on supplementing with 4 T5s if that makes a difference.

I feel like suck an idiot.......


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So I wasn't paying attention when I was buying my 3 A360we for my 125g and I ended up with 2 tuna suns and a tuna blue (I bought used so I can't return). I'm not sure which ones to keep and which to sell. Does anyone run the tuna sun on their tanks? I do plan on supplementing with 4 T5s if that makes a difference.

I feel like suck an idiot.......


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We all have done things like that. Paying for something we don't need or are going to use. I'd ditch them and take the loss. Sell them cheaper if it takes a while to get rid of them. They are for freshwater with 9000k max. It's not even 10k in which some "White" Metal halides are. If you have a refugium it's really grow some chaeto etc. but I would get rid of them.
 
12.5 h cycle with 2h ramp up and 2h ramp down. I have a mixed reef with SPS including Acros in the top third. Everything doing well, great color, and pretty good growth. I do supplement with T5.
 
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Here is my graph. Getting good growth and color!!
Grey is intensity and pink is color
 
Thanks for sharing guys! I have the kessils for the nice view and effects but now I am thinking to keep them as main "head" lights. They are so beautifull.

Nice weekend!
 
I have 4 Kessil 360we's on my 240 (8') FOWLR because I like the shimmer, but I'm getting a little shading on the edges and between lights. I was wondering if the A80's would help with shading as it's a FOWLR I don't want to get anymore 360's. I did have some E5's I was going to use, but they don't run in my retrofit so I took it out.
 
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